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Hoytkimbershimano

Calcutta 200 Spool Shaft Bearing?

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Hi All,

 

Since discovering this forum, I have been tinkering with flushing bearings. — WOW!!  

 

I noticed that my old Calcutta 200s (Silver) don’t have a bearing on the spool shaft behind that pin.   There is a bearing sized piece of plastic.   

 

Is is there a benefit to adding a bearing there like I see on my old Curados and Chronarch?   Is there a place to get the tool to remove that pin?   I tried carefully pulling, but it won’t budge and I am not about to force it.   

 

Also, in the handle assembly of my Chronarch 100, the star drag washers slipped off.  How do I know the orientation for them to go back on?  I saw somewhere that they should make this shape:   ()

 

DVT - what is the best way for me to contact you?  

 

Thanks!!

Tim

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1 hour ago, Hoytkimbershimano said:

Hi All,

 

Since discovering this forum, I have been tinkering with flushing bearings. — WOW!!  

 

I noticed that my old Calcutta 200s (Silver) don’t have a bearing on the spool shaft behind that pin.   There is a bearing sized piece of plastic.   

 

Is is there a benefit to adding a bearing there like I see on my old Curados and Chronarch?   Is there a place to get the tool to remove that pin?   I tried carefully pulling, but it won’t budge and I am not about to force it.   

 

Also, in the handle assembly of my Chronarch 100, the star drag washers slipped off.  How do I know the orientation for them to go back on?  I saw somewhere that they should make this shape:   ()

 

DVT - what is the best way for me to contact you?  

 

Thanks!!

Tim

When I worked on reels, we used a small flat punch and light taps with a hammer to remove that pin.  And obviously lay it flat on something that has a hole in it for the pin to drop in, so you don't bend the spool shaft.  And then lightly tap it back into place, making sure the two parts that are exposed are equal lengths so the pinion gear doesn't get damaged.

 

And yes, the drag washers should be apposing like you mentioned - ().  

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You need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Spool-Bearing-Pin-Remover-Type/dp/B00K46LQ8U

 

I have a special set of pliers custom made for this, but unfortunately, the gentleman that made them has passed away. 

 

Another yes to the washers installed like this ().

 

Click the link to the right for DVT site, which has all of Mike's contact info.

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15 minutes ago, J Francho said:

You need one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Spool-Bearing-Pin-Remover-Type/dp/B00K46LQ8U

 

I have a special set of pliers custom made for this, but unfortunately, the gentleman that made them has passed away. 

 

Another yes to the washers installed like this ().

 

Click the link to the right for DVT site, which has all of Mike's contact info.

Does putting a bearing on the spool shaft of those Calcuttas improve anything?   

 

Thx!!

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I'd say you'd see longer free spool times.  Whether you have the ability to use that is up to you.

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When 13 Fishing introduced their Concept "Z" reel, talk came around as how the "Z"s "new" plastic-type bearing (bushing) has been done before. It was and is a good idea. As with anything else, I don't try to overly judge a concept, just the implementation. If designed and implemented well, that usually yields success.

 

I'd first simply clean (flush) around the bearing. I'd guess the plastic bushing can be run dry, but even the "Z" bushing is oiled from the factory. I'm a lighter-fluid guy. I know many are acetone folks. With either, test the fluid on the side of the bearing for possible "attack" (melt). Lightly oil. See how it casts!

 

Karl

 

(My guess would be that lighter-fluid would be safe. It's a petroleum product.)

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Naphtha leaves more residue than pure acetone.  Pure acetone can be found at beauty supply stores.  Do not soak anything plastic in acetone or other solvents.  There are less aggressive degreasers like Perfect Solution, Crud Cutter, or plain old Dawn that won't harm non metal parts.

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43 minutes ago, J Francho said:

Naphtha leaves more residue than pure acetone. 

Residue might be a strong word. If you let a drop dry on stainless steel, the only thing you'll see left over after evaporation is a very thin ring outline of the original drop. And that wipes clean with a dry cloth. Hazard to guess less residue than if the same test was done with distilled water.

 

Karl

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