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Hector

Killswitch Install Johnson 200TL76S

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Hello, I recently purchased a 1981 Champion Super V Fish N Ski. Has a Johnson 200TL76S on it that runs good. However, there is no killswitch. Wondering if anyone has any information on how to go about getting one wired. I would like to have the killswitch on the dash and not directly on the motor since I will be driving the boat from where the dash it. Thanks for any response.

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No factory installed killswitch on a 1981?  Was it removed?  Have you looked by the hand throttle/gearshift?  I can't believe that year didn't have a killswitch.  

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Toxic, look at the model number of the motor.

That's an old motor!

Look at the wiring harness going into the control box or if you are careful, open the control box and find the black wire with yellow tracer and the solid black wire on the back of the key switch's M terminals.  Most universal kill switches come with three terminals, one marked N/O, one marked N/C and one marked C or common.  Connect the sold black wire to the Common terminal and connect the Black/Yellow wire to the N/O terminal by running wires from the kill switch to the wiring harness or key switch.  If you have to splice into the wiring harness, DO NOT cut the wires, just shave the insulation off and solder a wire to them.  Tape to protect connections.

 

The way that motors ignition works is the key switch shorts the Black and Black/Yellow wire together when you turn the key to the off position.  The Black Yellow is the ignition kill wire and is shorted to ground to shut the motor off, so all you are going is placing the kill switch in parallel with the key switch so either one will shut the motor off.

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2 hours ago, Way2slow said:

Toxic, look at the model number of the motor.

That's an old motor!

Look at the wiring harness going into the control box or if you are careful, open the control box and find the black wire with yellow tracer and the solid black wire on the back of the key switch's M terminals.  Most universal kill switches come with three terminals, one marked N/O, one marked N/C and one marked C or common.  Connect the sold black wire to the Common terminal and connect the Black/Yellow wire to the N/O terminal by running wires from the kill switch to the wiring harness or key switch.  If you have to splice into the wiring harness, DO NOT cut the wires, just shave the insulation off and solder a wire to them.  Tape to protect connections.

 

The way that motors ignition works is the key switch shorts the Black and Black/Yellow wire together when you turn the key to the off position.  The Black Yellow is the ignition kill wire and is shorted to ground to shut the motor off, so all you are going is placing the kill switch in parallel with the key switch so either one will shut the motor off.

I appreciate the information. I know its a old motor, but it was extremely well taken care of. Looks and runs better than motors that came out 20 years later.

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Wasn't knocking your motor, just explaining to Toxic that's an old motor is the reason for no kill switch.

 

I will pass on a couple of suggestions about the motor.  If it has not been rebuilt in recent years, be sure to do a decarb at least every 50 hours.  The top rings on the OEM piston is a tapered ring and very close to the top edge of the piston, making it very easy to break one if they get much carbon build up. 

Also, back when that motor was built, we had real gasoline, and not the crud we have now, so they had a good bit more compression.  So, absolutely do not run old gas, I'm talking even a couple of months old.  The gas we have now looses octane very quickly when left sitting in a tank.   It would also be wise to back the timing off about two degrees. 

The 200 back then became the 150 when they dropped the compression for the lower octane gases in the early 80's and started reading the HP off the prop shaft instead of the crankshaft.

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2 hours ago, Way2slow said:

Wasn't knocking your motor, just explaining to Toxic that's an old motor is the reason for no kill switch.

 

I will pass on a couple of suggestions about the motor.  If it has not been rebuilt in recent years, be sure to do a decarb at least every 50 hours.  The top rings on the OEM piston is a tapered ring and very close to the top edge of the piston, making it very easy to break one if they get much carbon build up. 

Also, back when that motor was built, we had real gasoline, and not the crud we have now, so they had a good bit more compression.  So, absolutely do not run old gas, I'm talking even a couple of months old.  The gas we have now looses octane very quickly when left sitting in a tank.   It would also be wise to back the timing off about two degrees. 

The 200 back then became the 150 when they dropped the compression for the lower octane gases in the early 80's and started reading the HP off the prop shaft instead of the crankshaft.

Appreciate the help and info. What you recommend? SeaFoam treatment?

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SeaFoam helps keep the gas from breaking down and helps reduce carbon build up but you would need to run a concentrate of about 2 ounces per gallon every 10 to 15 hours or so.  Yamalube does a good job also. OMC made a product called Engine Tune that did a good job.  That you used about every 50 hours. 

If you use a small 12 volt bulb on small wire, you can stick it in a spark plug hole and it lites the inside of the cylinder up and you can look through the plug hole and see how the domes are looking.  See how much carbon is building up.  On the cross flow engines like yours, you can take one of the exhaust covers off and inspect it.  Just need to undo four bolts and a new gasket.

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