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  • Super User
Posted

The best $50 I've ever spent. 

I have a Hawkeye Borescope, but it's a bit of a pain in the but to use and cost more than I want to spend to connecte it to a monitor.

I've tried several cheap contraptions that claim they would do the job, but were not worth the time it took to order them.

Last week I was on Amazon and came across another one of these contraptions but this one caught my attention and the more I read, I figure what the hay, won't be the first time I've p****d away $50 so I ordered one.  The item is was a TESLONG Rifle Bore scope, https://www.amazon.com/Teslong-Borescope-Mirror-195-Inspection-Compatibale/dp/B07XDYN296/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&hvadid=78408984240650&hvbmt=bb&hvdev=c&hvqmt=b&keywords=teslong+borescope&qid=1577741499&sr=8-5. 

It came today and went to the link they said in the directions and download the software, and installed it on Windows 7.  (took 10 off this computer).

The directions leave a bit to be desired but finally got it going, and was totally surprised at the results.  I also installed in on an old Galaxy S4 phone that I don't use as a phone.  If you do that, use the USB Camera app, the other have too much baggage attached.  IT DOES NOT WORK ON IPHONE.

 

Here's a couple of picture's of a rifle I thought I had clean, but had not inspected yet, needless to say, still needs a little work.

Snap_002.thumb.jpg.402f0ee338507fbd42111485b3e8b265.jpg

 

 

Snap_001.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Might have to check one of those out. I’d almost hate to know what it would show me though. So if I’m understanding correctly it would work plugged in to a windows based laptop just not on an iPhone?  

  • Super User
Posted

Yes, windows, Mac or Android, USB port. It comes with adapters to fit three different USB ports.

I've owned a bore scope for bunches of years, but has always been having to use a little peep hole to see inside the bore.  Once I almost spent the extra few thousand to get the Hawkeye with video.  I found out many years ago, it's almost impossible to properly clean a barrel without one.  I used to do a lot of competition shooting and some exhibition shooting, so accuracy was critical.   The main problem area is just where the throat starts and goes into the lands and the small space between the case and the throat, and up the barrel a couple of inches.  Almost all powders create a hard carbon buildup in the throat that just a regular cleaning will not remove and without some way of looking at it, you probably won't be getting it clean.   It can actually get bad enough to cause high pressure problem, and will greatly affect accuracy.

If you ever looked at the throat area with a bore scope, you will probably think the barrel surface has burned and cracked badly from the extreme heat generated there, but after a couple of hours and some creative cleaning, you will probably find the metal looks almost new once you get that carbon off.

Trust me, the carbon in that throat area is next to being turned to diamond, it's just that frigging hard.  The carbon build up on valves and piston don't compare to it, and I have not found or ever heard of a chemical the will de-solve it, and I have tried most all.  There are all kinds of claims, but I've tried them all, they don't work.  Even went so far as trying Barryman's B12 Aqua Seal carb cleaner on an old take off barrel.  That stuff makes an piston look new, but didn't touch the carbon in the throat of that barrel.  I shoot a couple thousand rounds a year for rifle's and pistols, and get very tired of cleaning that crap out.

Now, if you are just one of those shooters/hunters that might shoot a box of bullets every few years, that's something you will probably never see as a problem.  If you have a nice rifle and like to go out from time to time and punch holes in paper and like to see little bitty groups when you do, then you need to check it out.

Something like this, I know it looks like three but that's actually 5 shots from a 270 at 100 yards  The first four were almost in the same hole, then I pulled the fifth.

Oh, that's also. using an 8-32x55mm scope cranked up to 24X.

2140899363_Picture23.thumb.jpg.0a8ce4d9eb546fb744a05b0a24528794.jpg

 

  • Super User
Posted

A one size over bronze brush spun at a slow speed in a drill, keeping it just short of the lands with some type of carbon remover to keep it wet will take care of most of it.  Just don't get it on the lands, that brush going across them instead of inline with them probably won't be very healthy for them.  To finish up that area and a few inches up the lands, JB's. IOSSO, and KG2 are all abrasive compounds that will finish cleaning the throat and up the lands.   These work great for cleaning the up the barrel https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleaning-chemicals/patches-mops/cleaning-pellets/weapons-care-system-pellets-prod13839.aspx.  Tipton also makes some.  The super intensive have brass fibers woven in that really work on the hard to remove stuff.

I try to avoid using a bronze brush up the rifling, but if/when I do, it's usually one a size under wrapped with a cotton patch and I do not pull it back across the crown.

Posted

I do like to go out and punch paper from time to time. When I punch it from 100yds it dang sure doesn’t look

like that though.  That’s a nice group! 

 

Some years I’m a box a year and others I’m  probably closer to 1000 rounds but when it’s a thousand round year probably only a few hundred are for true precision (and with me I use that term lightly). I’d like to start doing some more precision shooting. No doubt my guns aren’t as clean as they should be but for me it’s probably more my techniques or lack thereof. That said I think I might check the scope out. I need all the help I can get. I developed a wicked flinch several

years ago that I need to deal with as well. 

  • Super User
Posted

At the range I used to go to, I was pretty well known (probably more so for my granddaughter they called her little Annie Oakley for her shooting skills) and was asked all the time if I would shoot someone else's rifle to see if I could figure out what was wrong with it.    I would shoot it and most of the time, it shot fine.  What I would do then is shoot a quick, three shot group with my rifle just to show them how it shot.  Then I would sit them down, load a round and have them shoot.  I would load another, and them shoot, then I would load a snap cap, it looks like a regular bullet.  When they pulled the trigger, 95% of them jerked the whole rifle.  I had one guy ****** it clean off the sand bags it was sitting on.

Dry fire practice from a steady rest is worth it's time in gold.  Get you some snap caps for one you like to shoot, sit down at a table or prone (my neck doesn't let me shoot prone anymore).  Practice keeping both eyes open, even with a scope. I never close one eye when shooting, that greatly reduces eye strain, because the eye can only focus for about five seconds before it starts to blur, if it does, look away for a few seconds, then come back to it.  Next pay attention to your breathing, take a fairly deep breath, exhale most of it to a comfortable level and then quit breathing.  Don't take a deep breath and hold it.  Remember, your eye is only good for five seconds, so that's all you have to quit breathing.  If you have to look away, you can breath again if you need to.

I hope you know proper trigger finger position and squeeze because that, I only try to show, not explain.

Then comes the trigger itself, on hunting rifle I want about 2 to 2 1/2 pounds and silky smooth. 

When all this is done, work on squeezing off shots without moving the cross hairs or blinking.  A blink is a sign of a flinch.  If you shoot in low light, the muzzle blast should blind the crap out of you, or wiping out the target picture if in good light, yet a lot of people don't even know there is a muzzle blast.  You should be able to call your shoots, every time that firing pin drop.  You should be seeing exactly where that cross hair is, or sight if shooting open sights, when the rifle goes off.  If you are blinking, you can't do that.

If I haven't shoot a rifle for a while, I still go through my dry fire drills.  I've probably dry fired my Glock, 100 times for every one time I've shot a bullet through it, and I've put a few thousand bullets through it, learning to shoot a pistol.

Forgot to mention one other critical part, your cheek weld.  The same position it critical.  If you have your scope very high, or don't have a Monty Carlo style stock or elevated cheek rest, that can really throw you off.  If you have a fixed Parallax scope, which is what most of the run of the mill hunting scopes are, they are usually set at approximately 100 yards.  If your cheek weld is not the same every time, and you are shooting some other distance, then your cross hairs are going to be in a different spot on the target every time your eye is in a different position.   Most like their cheek bone testing on the stock in the same spot.  You find that perfect spot so when you pull the rifle up, and lay you head forward to rest on the stock, it hits the same comfortable spot.  You don't go moving your head all over trying to get the scope picture right, you have the stock so it's the right height for the scope and have the scope positioned so it has the proper eye relief.

 

OK, So much for shooting 101.

  • Like 1
Posted

I appreciate all the good advice!  I have done the snap caps with pistol but not rifle. I’ll have to spend some time on that. The flinch started with a .300 win mag. I spent a little time with a 10/22 and a 5.56 to try to work on it. That helped but the snap caps would allow me to spend a lot more time working on it. It’s better than it was but still an issue if I’m shooting paper for a good group. 

 

Dont want to derail the original

point of your thread so I’ll just say that I’m shooting fixed parallax, what I’d call pretty run of the mill triggers on all my long rifles. Not horrible but by no means good. Most of my stuff is pretty basic off the shelf stuff. I’ve got to work on technique though more than anything I think and your post above will definitely help with that. Then maybe upgrade equipment. Thanks again for your help. 

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