Ok.... I have checked all the batteries and they are good. All the terminals have good connections. The trolling motor is dry around the brushes. Switch on the trolling motor is good.... All circut were checked... And still it runs a slow speed.....

If someone doesnt know what I am talking about my trolling motor will not run full speed..... It runs like the batteries are low....

Only thing that I have noticed is that the onboard charger is acting funny... Here are some pics of it and the batteries are fulll...... I think I am just fixing to take a drive to the skeeter dealer.... I GIVE UP!!!!

I know you said that you charged the batteries an what not. Have you tried the following.

1. debris/ string caught around prop shaft of trolling motor?

2. tested the wired (volt. meter) going to the charger.

3. tested the wires leaving the charger.

4. did you try running new battery's, not charged ones?

Just because the wires an connections look tight/clean, doesn't mean that they are. Also is it still under warranty will be the biggest question, If so then by all means take it in. If not have a second set of eyes have a look at it, before going into the dealer.

Electrical problems can be a nightmare, but with some patience it will pay off.

memo

I had problems with my Dual Pro Three Bank last year too. It sounds like the same thing that mine was doing. When I plugged it in the lights were acting funny. I borrowed my buddies multi-meter and found out that two of the banks weren't charging right. I e-mailed Dual Pro and they quoted me a price to fix it. When I sent it they said it would be cheaper if I just bought one of their factory rebuilds if they could keep the core. So I bought a rebuild that had a one year warranty also. It works great but I believe I paid $190 with shipping for the rebuilt one with the core. I can only suggest you test out each bank and see how many volts they are putting out. Hope this helps.

How did you check your batteries to determine they are all good? Are they the type with caps and did you use a hydrometer, if so what specific gravity readings did you get.

If they are maintenance free batteries, did you use a Midtronics tester to check the CCA capacity? Although they are not real accurate on deep cycle TM batteries, if they have a CCA capacity on the label, they usually work fine. Most pure deep cycle batteries won't have a CCA label because they are not designed to deliver CCA.

If not the Midtronics and they are sealed, did you use a load tester along with a voltmeter. If you just used a voltmeter, that didn't tell you anything. It's very common for a battery to show 12.6 volts or greater on a meter, but only show 50 CCA on a Midtronics or drop off to almost nothing during a load test.

Have you checked the voltage drop at the connector on the TM side of the connector? You should have close to 38.4 on fully charged batteries and shouldn't drop more than a couple of volts under a full load. At the batteries, I wouldn't think they should drop more than about 1 1/2 volts. I've never run or checked a 36 volt system but have tons of experience with 36 volt industrial equipment and if those batteries drop below 35.6 volts under a heavy load, the batteries are near junk.

One other thing, if in fact all the batteries are good, I would connect and inline amp meter and see what the motor is pulling.  If it's a bearing, or other problem it will be drawing too many amps.    If it a brush not making good contact or similar problem, it will not be drawing enough amps.  I've had more than one that one brush would not be making doing it's job and run slow.

one thing, are the batteries hooked up right? not saying anything, but when you are cleaning and checking everything you might have hooked them up wrong. some times the easiest, most straight forward things, get overlooked.

I run a 36volt MG TM and it will run on 12 volt just slow.

also it might be your charger. I had one that would say batteries were at full charge and they weren't even close.

I think I am just gonna go buy some new batteries....... That would totally put them off the list...  I checked all of the trolling motor lower parts and they are clean and ok.... I bought a volt meter mut have no idea how to use it.... I stuck it in the plug of the trolling motor and it got hot...  Man alll this is a nightmare!!!! :-/

And all the wires are crazy....Anyone got a diagram???

I'm not saying this to be mean, but sure sounds like you don't know what you are doing and most of the time you are only going to make the problem worse or create new ones. I would bring it back to the dealer to have them trouble shoot the problem it's a matter of pay me now or pay me later and later all ways costs more. I would not buy new batteries just yet see all ready spending money you may not have to. JMHO Good Luck

if you not sure how the batteries hook up. I would take it to a dealer and have it looked at, before you buy anything. you might just have them hooked up wrong. your batteries should look something like this

battery 1 has neg going to the TM, the pos jumped to neg of battery 2, and the pos of battery 2 jumped to neg of battery 3, and pos of battry 3 going to the TM

battery 1               battery 2             battery 3

neg     Pos----------neg     pos---------neg      pos

to tm                                                            to tm

If your dealer is close I would take it there. Try to be there when the mechanic goes thru this stuff. You can make in complicated but it's not and most is just normal stuff that you deal with every year.

Garnet

I'm not saying this to be ugly but if you've just bought a voltmeter and don't know how to use it, you realy should take it to a dealer or find a friend that's very familiar with how to check one out.

I could walk you through the different steps you need to take with a voltmeter but it would take a while.

If your batteries are the type you take the caps off and add water, you need to get you a hydrometer and check them. Most auto parts stores have them and only cost $3 - $8, (NAPA for sure) depending on what they have. Just be sure it's one with the floating bulb in a glass tube, those little plastic things or the ones with the little floating balls aren't worth much. Before shelling out a few hundred bucks for new batteries, I would at least do that.

If you take them out and take them to most any parts store or battery dealer, they will usually check them for free.

One thing, if you replace them, be sure to replace all three with the exact same battery. Running them in series, this is a crtitical step, all batteries should be identical and of equal age (use).