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Wax On, Wax Off?

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For you aluminum boat owners, do you wax the hull?  If so, what type of wax do you use?  Paste?  Liquid?  Do you wax the entire hull or just below the water line?

Solved by Ppennin986

I own a painted Lund and I wax the whole thing. Beginning of the year I use paste wax through the season after each time out I pressure wash then towel dry and use spray wax 

  • Author
13 minutes ago, Ppennin986 said:

I own a painted Lund and I wax the whole thing. Beginning of the year I use paste wax through the season after each time out I pressure wash then towel dry and use spray wax 

Car wax or special marine wax?

  • Solution

Just regular car wax 

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I am a total detailing nerd.  I did it professionally for several years and I still do it obsessively as a hobby.  I have a lund impact.  I have tried several products on the boat so far.  I find marine specific products provide very little to no value over their automotive counterparts.  it is mostly just marketing.  Some of the marine formulas are a tiny bit more forgiving to apply as some are formulated to applied outdoors in the sun and just don't cure as quickly.

Ceramic coating will provide the greatest protection non longevity.  depending on which type you use they can last for years or months.  generally speaking the longer lasting it is the more difficult and time consuming the application will be.

The weakest area of a ceramic is it's ability to resist waterspots, which is something us boaters are concerned with.  This is what a good synthetic spray sealant is good for.  One that uses some polymers and becomes very slick to the touch.  These will resist water spots the best, but will need to be reapplied regularly.  Many can be used as drying aide and a quick detailer.  Meaning you can use them to clean off your boat after each use whether that is while it is wet at the ramp or back in your driveway at home.

 

I would stay away from any organic products or paste waxes.  They seem to be far less effective on boats.  they also break down much faster and resist water spots far less than a synthetic.

 

Before you start this process.  make sure you clean the boat very well and decontaminate the surface.  remove any water spots with vinegar and water, remove existing waxes, and use a fallout remover. 

 

layer 1 (optional):  Full ceramic coating.   I use Carpro Cquartz UK 3.0

layer 2:  ceramic paint sealant.  my current favorite is Griot's ceramic 3 in 1.  it is very easy to use and last 6+ months or longer when topped regularly.  It makes paint harder and much easier to clean.  water beading is amazing.  

layer 3:  synthetic sealant and quick detail in one.  I have tried and still use several I can recommend.
- carpro elixir (last a long time and ok at removing dirt)
- boat bling hotsauce (best at removing waterspots and leaves behind some sealant)

-  Griot's ceramic speedshine (nice cleaning properties and great drying aide)

 

there are many more good ones, but these are the 3 in my rotation right now.  if possible, I spray on the hotsauce at the ramp when boat is wet then wipe down.  then when I get home I use the elixir to make it look really shiny and slick.  
 

  • Author
11 hours ago, inferiorfisherman said:

I am a total detailing nerd.  I did it professionally for several years and I still do it obsessively as a hobby.  I have a lund impact.  I have tried several products on the boat so far.  I find marine specific products provide very little to no value over their automotive counterparts.  it is mostly just marketing.  Some of the marine formulas are a tiny bit more forgiving to apply as some are formulated to applied outdoors in the sun and just don't cure as quickly.

Ceramic coating will provide the greatest protection non longevity.  depending on which type you use they can last for years or months.  generally speaking the longer lasting it is the more difficult and time consuming the application will be.

The weakest area of a ceramic is it's ability to resist waterspots, which is something us boaters are concerned with.  This is what a good synthetic spray sealant is good for.  One that uses some polymers and becomes very slick to the touch.  These will resist water spots the best, but will need to be reapplied regularly.  Many can be used as drying aide and a quick detailer.  Meaning you can use them to clean off your boat after each use whether that is while it is wet at the ramp or back in your driveway at home.

 

I would stay away from any organic products or paste waxes.  They seem to be far less effective on boats.  they also break down much faster and resist water spots far less than a synthetic.

 

Before you start this process.  make sure you clean the boat very well and decontaminate the surface.  remove any water spots with vinegar and water, remove existing waxes, and use a fallout remover. 

 

layer 1 (optional):  Full ceramic coating.   I use Carpro Cquartz UK 3.0

layer 2:  ceramic paint sealant.  my current favorite is Griot's ceramic 3 in 1.  it is very easy to use and last 6+ months or longer when topped regularly.  It makes paint harder and much easier to clean.  water beading is amazing.  

layer 3:  synthetic sealant and quick detail in one.  I have tried and still use several I can recommend.
- carpro elixir (last a long time and ok at removing dirt)
- boat bling hotsauce (best at removing waterspots and leaves behind some sealant)

-  Griot's ceramic speedshine (nice cleaning properties and great drying aide)

 

there are many more good ones, but these are the 3 in my rotation right now.  if possible, I spray on the hotsauce at the ramp when boat is wet then wipe down.  then when I get home I use the elixir to make it look really shiny and slick.  
 

Good info. Thanks for taking the time to post. 

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