On 11/21/2021 at 4:25 PM, guidoStow said:

 

The outfitting is coming along. Much is delightful, some things make me scratch my head. Still have the install of the finder and to finish the rod storage rigging. Still trying to get it to stow 4 fly rods horizontally, but it is an interesting geometry problem. 

With tracks you can use the yak attack omega rod holders and the ones with the extensions.  I don't carry 4 usually but I was looking into adding 4 holders just in case.  They are the best I have found to hold fly rods with the most adjustability.

11 hours ago, JbroBass said:

Any more thoughts on the stand up bar since the last time I asked? Do you use it regularly? 

I'm still using it, it is nice to have it to lean on. But remember I am double haul flycasting 80' plus. If you are using a spinning or bait casting rod you probably moving a whole lot less...

7 hours ago, flyfisher said:

With tracks you can use the yak attack omega rod holders and the ones with the extensions.  I don't carry 4 usually but I was looking into adding 4 holders just in case.  They are the best I have found to hold fly rods with the most adjustability.

What I like about how the Nucanoe fly rod holders is that everything is below the gunwales. I just think it is safer than any other holder I have seen.

1 hour ago, guidoStow said:

What I like about how the Nucanoe fly rod holders is that everything is below the gunwales. I just think it is safer than any other holder I have seen.

I have mine angled backwards and pretty much parallel to the boat so they are out of the way.  if I could fit them inside I might do that but this way has worked for me.  I do like the open deck of that nucanoe though.  I think my nbext kayak will be a not be a kayak though and will be a paddle board.

I have been experiencing a nasty side to side/slip sliding on the unlimited with the bow mount Motorguide when over half power.

 

I finally installed a skeg hacked together from a sea kayak rudder and the transom plates NuCanoe sells for use with stern mount motors. It is fixed, not for turning. But it makes a huge difference in how the boat tracks. It can how run up to full power with no slipping at all. Huge improvement.

 

I have to try something like this because I have the same problem with mine. 

36 minutes ago, JbroBass said:

I have to try something like this because I have the same problem with mine. 

Let me know if you want pics or links to the parts...

Just now, guidoStow said:

Let me know if you want pics or links to the parts...

 

That would be great! Don't rush though as I'm heading on vacation later this week and won't be able to work on it for 3 weeks or so. (Although I could order the parts some time before then.)

 

My first priority now is trying to get the wiring correct for the fish finder. I tried the crimping method of wire joining, but I'm already having problems. One of the connections must be loose. Guess I need to figure out how to solder. I get why Hummingbird doesn't finish the connecting ends, but I can't believe they don't pre install an inline fuse holder in the wiring since that is recommended for every application. 

4 hours ago, JbroBass said:

 

That would be great! Don't rush though as I'm heading on vacation later this week and won't be able to work on it for 3 weeks or so. (Although I could order the parts some time before then.)

 

My first priority now is trying to get the wiring correct for the fish finder. I tried the crimping method of wire joining, but I'm already having problems. One of the connections must be loose. Guess I need to figure out how to solder. I get why Hummingbird doesn't finish the connecting ends, but I can't believe they don't pre install an inline fuse holder in the wiring since that is recommended for every application. 

Crimping does work solidly if you have the right tools. If you are having trouble with the wiring/soldering let me know. I'd be happy to help.

Build a skeg:

 

First get the rudder kit from amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V3RV32S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the transom kit from NuCanoe

https://www.nucanoe.com/product/7100-transom-motor-plate/

 

I removed the center piece of the rudder that holds the steel pin w/cotter. I then bolted the rudder housing pieces to the outer transom plate. I only had pan head bolts on hand so they are a bit proud, so I put a piece of tool box foam between the transom plate and the boat. The provided bolt that runs between the inner and outer plates was too short so I used a 4" 4-20 bolt so it fits the nyloc nut and thumbscrew provided.  

 

17 hours ago, guidoStow said:

Crimping does work solidly if you have the right tools. If you are having trouble with the wiring/soldering let me know. I'd be happy to help.

 

Thanks, I appreciate that! I will let you know how things go once I give it another shot. I did purchase a proper crimping tool, but my lack of experience was likely the problem. I also did a poor job matching up the wire gauges. For example, the wire gauge on the inline fuse holder was much thicker than the fish finder wire. I've bought some new components now that are more closely matched.

 

Having said all that, I believe the issue is actually right at the battery. My battery has those flat connectors (sorry I do not know the correct name) and therefore I crimped on quick connects which slide onto the flat connectors. But I do not believe those quick connectors are meant to slide off and on regularly, and I think they've already loosened. 

 

I'm think I'm going to utilize something like this now for the both the unit and the charger:

 

 

 

With these, I can leave the connection in place at the battery.

 

Having said that, I'm still not sure what the best connection to my battery leads is. (Quick connectors, alligator clips, something else?)

 

 

 

 

Did you run your cables from the battery to the motor internally?

40 minutes ago, guidoStow said:

Did you run your cables from the battery to the motor internally?

 

Not sure what you mean? The unit is mounted to the top of a Cell Block. So the cables are mostly coiled up and held with a cable tie, except the bit that goes inside the Cell Block to connect to the battery. On the positive wire inside the Cell Block I wired in an inline fuse holder for the 3 AMP fuse that Hummingbird recommends. And on the ends of the positive and negative wire I crimped a female quick connect which slide onto the "flat" style battery terminals. 

 

Edit: Sorry you are asking about the main battery and motor. Yes, I keep my main battery in the back of the kayak and had a plug installed back there. Then had a plug installed up front for the motor. The wiring is internal. This is working great. My issue is with the wiring for the Hummingbird to a smaller dedicated battery. 

Ah got it. I just couldn't find a place where the cell block was not in my way.

 

I went with the Nocqua lithium that I just stick in the tackle box cubby molded into the boat. In line fuse covered with shrink tubing and the nice little Nocqua connector attached to the Garmin power cord.

 

Those flat connectors on the battery offer one more point of failure. Do you have a multimeter you can check each segment of the sequence?