Just bought a new lowrance elite 5 for the dash...which means I am gna move the x125 that was on the dash up to the bow.  My question is: 1)Should I run my x125 wiring from the bow back to the fuse control panel under the console? 2) Or, can I just wire it to my plug that is conveniently located on the bow for my trolling motor (or will I have interferance issues with this since my trolling motor will be directly running of this same plug...constantly disturbing the elec. flow?  Also, not sure if I can even wire directly to the plug????  3)  this seems like the 2nd easiest option...wire it to the battery in the bow that is used for the trolling motor....not sure if I would get interferance here either since it is also gna have constant "action" from using the trolling motor. 

Let me know what you guys think....I have a feeling #1 above is the "best" and "correct" way to do this but if it does not matter, it would be easier to do it via #2 or #3.

Keep it away from the TM wiring. I ran my wiring all the way to the cranking battery(On the opposite side of the boat). Be sure to install a 3 amp fuse on the positive side.

the power wire seems kind of short.  Do I just splice a piece of wire onto that and shoot it over to the cranking battery?

I agree, best way is to run wire all the way back to cranking battery.  Yes, just splice some 16-gauge wire to reach the cranking battery.  Or, what I prefer to use is a cut-to-length piece of old extension cord.  Wires contained in protective sheath, easy to run thru side of boat.

I had the same issue when I put a depth finder on the from of my boat. My bow light has a three wires going to it, all 16 gauge. One is always hot for a little utility light on the bow light. I just tapped into that. Maybe yours is the same.

I guess running wire back there wont be too bad! I just hate to pull the flooring up....or try and pull wire all the way down the gunwall(sp?) on the port side. There are no wires to zip tie to on that side. I may just try to hook into the plug (after attaching a fuse of course) and turn on the trolling motor and see what it does to my screen. It would just take a second and would prob. save me a couple hours of PIA pullin floor boards or running wire. I appreciate the insight! Keep it coming!

It's not that hard to run the wires. I used two coat hangers that i straightened and taped together with duct tape. Took less than 30 minutes on my Skeeter.

I, at one time, had the front unit wired into the front light. Just was not comfortable comprising the wiring harness and changed it out several weeks ago. Now if i can just find the SOB that stole all three units a week ago i would be set.

It's not that hard to run the wires. I used two coat hangers that i straightened and taped together with duct tape. Took less than 30 minutes on my Skeeter.

I, at one time, had the front unit wired into the front light. Just was not comfortable comprising the wiring harness and changed it out several weeks ago. Now if i can just find the SOB that stole all three units a week ago i would be set.

Doesnt that just P*ss you off.  Spend all that time and money on something and some j@ckas* has to come ruin prob. half your fishing season.  I have that same problem with treestands here in michigan.  People walk around at night on our private property, climb our trees, steal our stands, and take the steps on the way down......Is it wrong that I hope they fall and break there legs?! >

Yes!

If I wire to the fuse panel I can use a flat prong type fuse that goes with the fuse panel correct????  These would serve the same function as an inline cylindrical type glass fuses???  Correct????

My last fishfinder was wired to the fuse panel and I had no issues with interferance.  It had the flat fuse.

I decided since i had an extra fuse spot on the fuse panel I would rewire to that and check for interferance.  If I have interferance, I will go to the battery.

Yes, the flat automotive style fuses are the way to go (3 amp), whether wired in-line or in a fuse panel.  Spring loaded glass fuses are a problem waiting to happen.

Yes, the flat automotive style fuses are the way to go (3 amp), whether wired in-line or in a fuse panel. Spring loaded glass fuses are a problem waiting to happen.

why are the glass fuses a problem?

Unless you have them in a very good marine quality fuse holder, they can break fairly easily with the impact a boat on a plane takes.  A little too much vibration can just destroy those glass fuses.

Unless you have them in a very good marine quality fuse holder, they can break fairly easily with the impact a boat on a plane takes. A little too much vibration can just destroy those glass fuses.

In addition to this, the spring loaded fuses tend to quickly corrode on the ends in the marine environment.  Springs also weaken causing poor connections.

I have to agree with Todd on the flat 3 amp fuses. I changed mine out a few weeks back. the round fuses definitely corrode up pretty quickly.

Here's a trick you might be able to use to snake the wiring without having to pull up the floor boards.

If you have a wire running from the area where you will install the finder to the battery, disconnect that wire near the battery, tie a cord to the end, and pull it through from the other end.

Secure your new wiring to the cord/wire link, and pull the new wiring, along with the existing wiring back to the battery area.

This will only work if there is enough space, and the existing wiring was not secured with clips or clamps.  If you encounter resistance, do not try to pull the wire past it.  You may get it hopelessly hung.  Pull it back via the cord, and go to plan B.

Roger that....thanks guys!