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What crankbait works best deflecting off cover

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What brand crankbait do you use when you are throwing it into cover for the purpose of making contact with that cover? How often does it get hung up? 1 out of 10 times or maybe 20 or better?

Which one is best at the 4 feet range?

At the 10 feet range?

At the 15 feet and deeper range?

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Down to 4' I use the Lucky Craft RC series. They make a beautiful bait and several different sizes in each color. I've personally used the 1.5, 2.5 and 3.5 models and they are an excellent alternative for a spinnerbait in and around wood. It's truly amazing how well these cranks come through cover. A 4WD crankbait if ever there was one!

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i would go with the rapala dt series for each of these depths but as for deflecting off objects change the sure set hooks to gammys and u shouldnt get hung as much for those reaction strikes.

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i would go with the rapala dt series for each of these depths but as for deflecting off objects change the sure set hooks to gammys and u shouldnt get hung as much for those reaction strikes.

Do you have any problems of the lips breaking on the DT's? Or has rapala fixed that problem?

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Guest avid

The coffin shaped lipped cranks are designed for deflecting off of cover.

The rounded bill will be more likely to just slide around the branch, whereas the coffin bill will actually deflect.

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Anything with either a square or coffin lip will deflect the best.  I do a lot of shallow water cranking, and my favorite is the Norman Mad-N.  Also the Mann's Baby-1 Minus and Baby-4 Minus.

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I use Bomber Square A's for shallow cover. The only thing I have to compare it to is lipless cb's.....they do go through the cover much better than them, however, I went through a lot of them this year.  Luckily they are cheap.

FD

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i would go with the rapala dt series for each of these depths but as for deflecting off objects change the sure set hooks to gammys and u shouldnt get hung as much for those reaction strikes.

While the Rapala DT series cranks are great baits, they do not defelect off cover all that well...trust me...I know. I have gone through a pretty good amount of them. As mentioned above coffin billed baits are the best at deflecting off of cover. Round billed baits like the DT don't necessarily deflect, but run very close to the cover instead of bouncing off of it.

Here is an excellent thread started by our very own crankbait guru, Chris. I believe this info is covered in their somewhere.

http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1165283062;start=all

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The best deflecting crankbaits I have used for 4' and under are the Timber Tigers.  They will deflect and come through some pretty nasty stuff without getting hung up.  Their body design does a good job of protecting the hooks on the front side, without impeding hook ups with fish.

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Guest whittler

Hawgin, is on the right track. body design is where its at. As a baitmaker, the wide body designs along with the proper hook selection, for that particular bait, will get you through the trash better than relying totaly on lip design.

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Hawgin, is on the right track. body design is where its at. As a baitmaker, the wide body designs along with the proper hook selection, for that particular bait, will get you through the trash better than relying totaly on lip design.

Whittler, I agree with what you are saying.

Let's say you have some massive wood/cover to punch through. Would you be at an advantage by downsizing the trebles one size (particuarly the Bomber Square A)?  Or, would this cause a signifcant decline in hookup ratio?

FD

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Guest whittler

I would rather not downsize on the hook, but will usually change the type of hook. Triple grips get through cover very well and they hold well but it seems, at least to me, they don't hook up as well as a standard short shank round bend treble. If I'm working rough stuff I will bend lower hook on the bottom treble straight down and cut off the barb.  If you will hold a bait facing you and swing the lower hook from right to left what I want to see is the point of the hook stay within the arc of the body and lip. I also want a wood bait that is very responsive.

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Body design, if the bait is properly tuned, hook, lip shape/width, hook placement, and wiggle pattern is what makes a crankbait deflect off cover the best.

Body design- round..the round body helps shield the hooks while they swing.

tuned- If the bait is off it will tilt the bait when it strikes the cover and hang up

hook- triple grip hooks because the point is tilted toward the shank tends not to hang as much as a round bend.

Lip shape/width-the wider the lip the more it acts like a weedguard. a square bill tends to work best in heavy cover because it only has one kick out point. a round bill tend to strike the target and move around it real close to it. A coffin bill will strike the target and kick way out away from the target which isn't good in heavy cover because it will shoot itself into another branch. A bill with a simi round front and squared off sides is a happy medium to the round bill and square.

Wiggle pattern- a wide wiggle tends to fling the hooks wildly from side to side and tends to latch onto things. A medium wiggle tend to be best.

Hook placement-If the front hook is placed to forward it will cause the point to be exposed to anything that the lure tries to work itself over.

Wood- I tend to throw wood baits the most around heavy wood and weed cover mainly because it tend to react to the cover better and hangs less. Hard rock or if I am going to just drag the bottom I tend to use plastic.

RC crankbait is a good crankbait but because the front hook is forward your going to hang it a lot. I never down size my hooks ever. I don't because it will change the action of the bait or your not going to have enough gap to pin a good fish and you will be sorry. I do not like a thin bait, or a bait that has a short and small bill in heavy cover. The reason is because both do not have the deflection qualities. DT is another good bait but because of the thin design it is not a heavy cover bait. The thin DT's are the same way even if the bait has a coffin bill the bait is designed to run to a depth and strike a lone target. If you take the same bait to any heavy wood because of the thin design the body will not shield the bait and it will hang up on every branch of the tree. There is more to it then just lip shape. Try to use the things I listed above to make good decisions on which bait to choose and not just the name or the price tag. You would be better off in the long run and you will be able to just look at the bait and figure out if it is the right bait for you or the cover your fishing.

On a side note:

Whittler is about to come out with a shallow runner that is a class A bait in cover. We both have been tweaking this bait for the past year to get it perfect. I think this latest design I got yesterday is the best design yet. It employs everything I want in a shallow crankbait. This is the only bait I own that will serge forward almost like it is pecking something while still being a fantastic search bait (the bait will dart to one side or the other then right itself). What this means is that the bait has a lot of action and acts alive with random motion and will displace more water than a typical crankbait. A bait that surges looks like a minnow trying to fight a heavy current.

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Guest avid

Whittler and Chris teaming up to designe and build crankbaits?

Wow, can't get better than that.  

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You need to understand where I am going with this. Some baits are great for slamming into standing timber or docks. The same bait may not be the best bait to root around on the bottom or places that look like a beaver hut. With the RC, Fat CB BDS, the front hook hanger is in the upper part of the curve of the belly. By placing it there the hook will naturally hang parallel to the bottom when you run the bait. When the bait smacks log the nose will dip and the hook will be exposed and not protected by the body of the lure. When you run it over a log the bill will not kick the bait enough to clear the hook and it will snag. You take the same bait to a dock or standing timber and the body and bill will deflect of the cover no problem. That was kinda why I was saying look at what your thowing in and figure out which lure would be best. I hope you understand what I am trying to explain.

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When the bait smacks log the nose will dip and the hook will be exposed and not protected by the body of the lure. When you run it over a log the bill will not kick the bait enough to clear the hook and it will snag. You take the same bait to a dock or standing timber and the body and bill will deflect of the cover no problem.

My experience has been a little different.  One of my favorite things to do is cast one of my afforementioned crankbaits over a log or limb that is just under the surface, and let it come over the top.  I will reel steadily as my bait is approaching the log, and sweep my rod right before my bait comes into contact, and it will rocket over the log creating a disturbance, and usually a bass.  I haven't had any issues with snagging coming over laydowns...I feel this is where they excel.  I've never considered hook placement along the curvature of the bait, yet I look at the bait in it's diving position, angled down, and see if the hook points are lower than the bill and whether they stick out on the sides.  I look at this because generally your bait will go under the log/limb first, and as your bait  comes up it's back will hit the underneath side of the log, roll to the nose, and then on to the bill as it comes over the top of the log.  The bait will never leave its diving angle, and as long as the hook points don't protrude down farther than the lip in it's diving position, I don't see how it can snag.  I lose the most baits trying to get them through bushes or clusters of limbs, not casting over laydowns.  I'm not saying you are wrong...just what my experience has been.  My technique could play a part in this as well...my 'sweep' I do right before I come over a log not only produces a better collision and deflection, but aids in the bait shooting over the log.  My heart races everytime I see a laydown and have a B2 tied on!

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I got this lake that I fish that was a forest before they flooded it. I have a real hard time using that bait in that lake because I spend most of my time unsnagging it from a tree. I love the bait the only thing I can figure out that would make that lure snag up as much as it does is the front hook position. I do understand that I am fishing jungle and most people wouldn't throw a crankbait in it but by the same token if I move to the river fishing the edge of the tree's for some reason that lure snags more than other lures that I use. Most lures will hit a log and flip over it this lure glances and sticks it. I have used it in other water that has less cover and I still find myself running down that lure more than other ones. It could very well be that the trick is to speed it up for the impact.

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