11 replies to this topic

[rockchalk06]

Not so much brand and price, but what makes a good cranking rod.

[BASSclary]

Everything is factored into personal preferance really. Lighter, better balanced, components used, blank material, and certainly aesthetics come into play. Use what ever you like, want, and can afford. Powell Max's fit me perfectly. Obviously, everyone has their own tastes. These are what separates rod from rod.

[rockchalk06]

my mistake man. Auto correct sucks. I meant cranking lol

[BASSclary]

In that case, I would put more emphasis on the power of the rod, handle length, and weight. Your really gonna wanna make sure your rod can cast the baits your throwing. A MH cranking rod will no load up Squarebills, and a lighter rod will feel stressed with those 1 oz deep divers. And to keep those trebles pinned, I would say atleast a mod-fast is required. Some prefer glass to graphite, but you can get very parabolic rods in graphite now, and graphite weighs considerably less. Another thing to consider is handle length. Winding on those cranks all day can be a PITA with a shorter rod handle, so I'd opt for a longer on so you can tuck in under your arm. The longer handle length will also help catapult those lures farther. And then to keep from wearing down from casting all day, you need to consider the weight. The lighter the weight, the less fatigued you well feel throughout the day from launching those baits.

If your looking for something under 100 bucks (like me), i'm strongly looking at the Powell Diesel Cranking rod. It seems to fit my need, and I really like the fact that the rod weighs in at only 3 oz. Thats fantastic. Its also a glass rod as well, so you really get that nice deep bend in your rod. From what I hear its fairly sensitive as well.

[fishking247]

a slow tapered rod is what makes a goood crank bait rod. throwing cranks on a extra fast action rod will cause you to pull more hooks out of the bass' mouth

[deep]

...

Hey BC, have you ever considered submitting an article to Glenn? (I'm not joking.)

[BASSclary]

Hey BC, have you ever considered submitting an article to Glenn? (I'm not joking.)

I've never really thought about it, but I'm not good with coming up with new topics.

[BobP]

It depends on how you fish, what line you use, how much sensitivity you want when retrieving crankbaits. I don't use monster hook sets, I keep trebles razor sharp, and my reels have drags that actually work. I think it's critical to feel what the crank is doing on the retrieve and I use either fluorocarbon or hard mono line. For me, a medium or MH power graphite rod with a soft medium action tip section gets it done. I use a 6 1/2' M for throwing shallow baits around cover. Lots of sensitivity and that length makes for accurate casts. A 7 1/2' MH rod for deep cranks, where casting distance is at a premium. I've tried fiberglass and found it much too tip heavy with too little sensitivity. I rarely if ever lose fish when cranking, so the "pulling hooks out" rationale for fiberglass just doesn't resonate with me. If others experience that problem, they'll choose accordingly. There's a whole universe of cranking rods available, from all graphite to all glass and blended options in between. You're better off if you ignore well intentioned advice from others (based on THEIR style of fishing) and decide what fits you best.

[rockchalk06]

In that case, I would put more emphasis on the power of the rod, handle length, and weight. Your really gonna wanna make sure your rod can cast the baits your throwing. A MH cranking rod will no load up Squarebills, and a lighter rod will feel stressed with those 1 oz deep divers. And to keep those trebles pinned, I would say atleast a mod-fast is required. Some prefer glass to graphite, but you can get very parabolic rods in graphite now, and graphite weighs considerably less. Another thing to consider is handle length. Winding on those cranks all day can be a PITA with a shorter rod handle, so I'd opt for a longer on so you can tuck in under your arm. The longer handle length will also help catapult those lures farther. And then to keep from wearing down from casting all day, you need to consider the weight. The lighter the weight, the less fatigued you well feel throughout the day from launching those baits.

If your looking for something under 100 bucks (like me), i'm strongly looking at the Powell Diesel Cranking rod. It seems to fit my need, and I really like the fact that the rod weighs in at only 3 oz. Thats fantastic. Its also a glass rod as well, so you really get that nice deep bend in your rod. From what I hear its fairly sensitive as well.

Thanks.

I am using an Ugly Stick MH 6'6" and it has a bouncy tip. I looked at the WM and the KVD cranking rods and they are similar in bounce. Is this what I want?

[BASSclary]

Thanks.

I am using an Ugly Stick MH 6'6" and it has a bouncy tip. I looked at the WM and the KVD cranking rods and they are similar in bounce. Is this what I want?

Depends more or less on what crankbaits your using, and your style of fishing them.

[rockchalk06]

Depends more or less on what crankbaits your using, and your style of fishing them.

I use mainly shallow cranks. I have no boat so I have to go more shallow

[Bass_Fanatic]

Its according to what cover your throwing them in too. For open water shallow cranks, a 7' M/M would werve you well but if your looking at throwing shallow cranks around wood or grass, I would opt for something more powerful such as a M/F or a MH/MF