digdug

Great picture. I hope the BaitMonkey doesn't mind having his picture taken.

I like to use curly tailed and twin tailed grubs on spinnerbaits. I will also use a #11 or a #1 pork frog. I tend to use the pork frog when I want the bait to fall very slowly. I fishing bubby of mine uses a 6" and sometimes a 8" plastic worm.

;DROFLOL ;D I know the BaitMonkey and several of his manifestations all to well. The BoatMonkey has been working on both my wife and I for the past several months now. Is there any hope for us?

Making your own lures and building your rods can be very fun and rewarding. Another place to look for books and videos is cablea's

Out of 6 buddy Tournements, we've been in the top 1/3 in all of them, took 1st + big bass in one and 2nd in another. Only one other angler in the circut has done better. We have our year end tournament coming up on 10/2. It looks like it will be a real showdown.....

I went to one earlier this year at the Springfield MO, Bass Pro Shop. I was pretty dissapointed. There were some good information. A couple of the instructors were good, but the rest would just talk, tell stories, and get way off the subject. It seemed like most of them had no notes or outline to teach by. Also about 1/4 of the subjects that were supose to be taught never got anything but a few passing comments.

How long a boat can run on a trolling motor depends on a couple of factors. 1. How many amp hours of storage does the battery have? The more the amp hours the longer or more work the trolling motor can do. I've seen deep cycle rated from 80 amp hours to 225 amp hours. 2. How much work the trolling motor is having to do? Are you running the motor on full power all the time, or are you running it closer to 1/2 power. (Generally speaking electric motors are most effient at about 80% of full amp load, as far as power input vs work done.) 3. Are you using your deep cycle battery to start you outboard? This can lead to a very short battery life. Also you don't want to run your electronics from your trolling motor battery, this can shorten the life of your electronics. 4. For an onboard charger you diffently want one that will charge at least 10amps.

I would agree with gambler, but I would go one step farther, the boat is fine, but the motor would rule the boat out for me. I'm a die hard Mercury fan, though I also like Yamaha. Good Luck & Good Fishing

The cranking battery needs to be hooked up to your motor and electronics, just like your car or truck. The other two batteries most likely need to be set up for a 24 volt trolling motor. 1 + lead to the trolling motor, 1 - lead to the trolling motor then a connection between the remaining + and -.

I've been thinking about building my own spinnerbaits. There is thing I haven't got figured out. How to paint them. Does anyone out have any tips on how to paint a spinnerbait? Thanks Doug

I would say Rick Clunn. I can't belive Bill Dance, made the list. If you've ever met him or dealt with off stage you might think differently. If there is not money in it for him, he wants nothing to do with it. But he is a VERY sharp business man.

My set up is like Ben's, but w/ a twist. The TM unit and rear unit are networked. This let you see both transduceres' images.

On the trolling motor, generally speaking bigger wire is better. As I recall most of the boat manufactures use 6 gauge wire for the trolling motor. For the trolling motor prop, can you identify the brand of the motor?

This may sound a bit odd, but everyone is right. If gary y want to sale his lures at $7, that's his right, but we don't have to buy. Now there are sometimes and conditions here if you don't have the exact lure profile, your not going to catch fish.

My experince has been that the lights really don't seem to bother the fish. As a SCUBA diver, we dive a lot at night and the lights don't seem to scare the fish.