SteveF

I just removed the knob cap and sprayed with a garden hose to eliminate anything that maybe in there, and re-lubed. It is still hard to turn. I really do not feel I should have to purchase something that is $150 to fix a $250 reel. I have 3 Steez, as well as 2 SOL's and 5 Alpha's and have never had any issues with any of them and very little up-keep other than cleaning and re-lubing.

So am I S.O.L.?

When you remove the center cap there is only a flat gold face inside, nothing with a screw on it to remove. Not sure what to do?

I have a Daiwa Zillion and one of the knobs on the handle is hard to turn and does not spin freely. I can not figure out how to take it off, however I have flushed it with water and applied Daiwa oil to no help. Any idea's as to how to fix this? Thanks.

I have and believe in the Cul-M-Rite scales. They are absolutely spot on accurate!!

More than like you are either reeling too fast (which doesn't allow for finesse) or you are not paying enough attention to the feel of the bait. Try working the crankbait with the rod tip more than reel as that should help keep it from getting hung or reeling in the wad of weeds.

I typically find that a rattle trap works best in clearer or colder water (not that it doesn't work all year though). I would say that depending upon the type of weeds, the spinnerbait and crankbait (of proper depth) would be interchangeable and I would fish with one or the other first and follow up with the opposite to pick up extra fish. Take care, Steve

It could be anything from to stiff of a rod for the lure (loading of rod), poor spinning reel (small spool), poorly spooled line (kinks, old or too stiff) or possibly other factors. What weight lure are you trying to through as this would be the first thing I would look at? Steve

Braid is out as we have very rocky cover mixed in with the bushes, weeds and docks, and from my experience braid and rocks absolutely do not mix. Anyone have any knots or strength issues with the Berkley 100% or has anyone tried the Sufix Flouro?

I just received 2 new St. Croix Legend Extreme XC76MHMF (pitchin' sticks) and will pair them with the 2 new Steez 103L's that I got a couple months back. I will use them for pitching sparse to medium cover with a 7-8 pound very rare. I've been doing all my pitching this year with a LTBC76MHMF and a Steez, and will switch the Steez out on this rod with braid on a Zillion and convert it to a frog rod. What line do you recommend for pitchin'? I've been using 15 pound Yozuri Hybrid in Smoke (I fish stained water 95% of the time). I really would like to take the sensitivity of these rods to another Extreme (pun intended) by using flourocarbon, but have had some very bad experiences in the past with line breaking on the hook set with 17 pound Berkley Transition. Now I realize it was probably the line at that time, but just can not get myself to use flouro. Help with new line, or should I stay with what has worked so far? Thanks. Steve

As for baits, probably the best and most popular bait for punchin' mats is the Gambler BB Cricket.

Just in time for our lakes to freeze.

I've never used a straight shank hook for flipping and want to try one with a snell knot and was wonder what size you guys use? I'm currently flipping/pitching the Smallie Beaver and Chigger craws on a 2/0 EWG Super Line hook. Our bait shops do not carry them so I will need to purchase them online and would like to get a few sizes but want to start in the correct place. Thanks. Steve

Spawning pathways can be anything from a channel leading into a cove or a drop off leading to or adjacent to a spawning flat. Even a weedline can be a pathway. Understand that fish use these "pathways" regardless of the time of year to travel to and from spawning/feeding grounds. It is a piece of structure or cover that they use to get from one place to another (high way). I typically prefer to fish these areas with deep running crankbaits, lipless crankbaits to find them and then slow down with a football jig or a carolina rig from there. However, I have found my best success this early is to target the fish that are already on the spawning flats. I would say electronics are essential, however nothing is really needed per say. Steve

I primary spend most of my time on the Mississippi River from pools 4-10 (each pool around 30-40 miles long), however what you will need to understand is that there is cover and there is structure. Structure is bottom contours, current breaks, eddies and the like. Cover is an object such as a log or weeds. You will want to concentrate on the same things that you did in a lake, the difference is that it is going to be much smaller. For example, even a small river will have flats (inside turns) and the difference is instead of being many acres they will be yards instead. Also on the outside bends you will have under cut banks (especially in small rivers) and current breaks around any sharp points or around cover. That cover will also have deeper water on the back side and shallow water on the front side (typically). Take care, Steve