The Rooster

Nobody has mentioned that you might also try the KVD line and lure treatment. I've never used fluoro on a spinning reel but this stuff has done wonders for 12# fluoro on a baitcast reel. It softens the line it seems like, makes it very manageable to cast. I've used 10# mono on spinning reels with no problems. Can't see why you couldn't with fluoro unless it's just too stiff.

Oh yeah, the rod felt and looked really well made. I liked it a lot. I'm just looking for any information from someone who may have used this exact rod before. I'm on the fence about whether or not to get it. If it had been $70, I'd probably already have it here at the house.

It's more of a reel thing.

I looked at them and I think I like them better than my Shimanos. They're a little heavier, but the Tournament Pro model is actually lighter. I'm leaning towards the middle one though, which is the heaviest of all. Still only 8.3 oz. Cabela's catalog says it's 6 pin centrifugal brakes but the one I looked at was actually only 4 pins.

I saw one of those Fenwicks today close up and personal. They look just like the ones shown in this year's BPS catalog for trout but they are green and say Smallmouth on the blank. It's different than anything I've ever felt. I was looking at a 6'9" and a 6'10" versions. Same ratings (can't remember what they were) but that single inch made one feel different from the other. Seemed to be super stiff blanks, but super light weight and felt nice in hand. I immediately thought of shakyheading and dropshotting with them. They were nice in hand. They had a casting version too. It was really nice as well. I didn't pay that close of attention to them though, I just knew they were new in the store so I looked for about a minute before I left. Didn't know they were a "new out" item. Almost forgot, the only thing on your list I can comment on is the Pflueger President. I've had two in the 35 size and won't ever have another. It's a solid reel, still works, but it feels rough in the gears on the retrieve. Otherwise, it's a solid reel. I might have just gotten 2 duds. Got them from different places, nearly a year apart, and had the same results both times. However, a 30 sized Pflueger Trion also purchased at the same time has been great. Line twist has been an issue with all of them though. I'm going to try some KVD line treatment on some fresh line to see how that goes. But they do a good job of casting and retrieving, being strong during a fish fight, and cause no serious problems otherwise. The Trion has been really smooth.

The store where I was looking at rods today has a few older model Fenwick HMG rods. They are 7' models, rated M and MH (no action listed, just power) and lure weight is 3/8 to 1 1/4 on the MH as I remember, and I think the line rating was 10 to 25 pound. Can't really remember the details on the medium rod. Anyway, I loved the feel and look of the rods but I picked them up originally because they looked like they might make decent jigging rods. The action of them felt more like a cranking rod though. I flexed the MH and it easily bent into the middle section so I'd say it was more of a MF action than a F or XF. The medium rated rod was the same way, just softer overall. I went in looking for a jig rod but left thinking this might make a decent crankbait rod the way it felt. It was much softer than what I want for jigs (I'm thinking 7' MH/XF there). It has a lifetime warranty, still new on the shelf, but it's the older version to what's being sold now. It's priced at $129.99. I'm sure I could talk the shop owner down on it some being that it's an older model and he's obviously had them around for a while. The rod's colors are like a dark maroon with black guides and a golden lettering for the graphics. Full cork handles (the newer ones have TAC handles now). Anybody know anything about them?? The only reason I'd want the rod is because of the way it feels for cranking, but if it breaks or something then I know it would be replaced with the new ones and I'm not sure I'd like them.

I've been eyeing that Smoke rod also. And I, too, put the trigger between my ring and pinky fingers while palming the reel (sometimes anyway, I actually have several grips I change between depending on feel, rod position, and hand fatigue level during the day). To me, on the ACS seat, the way the trigger looks it's like it's too thick to be comfortable, but today in the store I held several and didn't think so at all. They had no reels on them though. I was just holding the rod with it positioned between my fingers, which is when I'd most notice it if it was actually too thick. I've passed on rods in the past without ever holding them due to seeing that seat. Now I'm wondering if I'd like one. But I definitely know I like the ECS already. Before I make a purchase I'd definitely saddle a reel on the rod to see how it feels. I'm looking for a jigging rod and possibly a cranking rod too. Probably going to get one or the other within the next month (anniversary gift) if I don't get a shakyhead spinning rod instead.

What do you like best for a reel seat on a casting rod?? I like the ECS due to comfort in hand. Today I looked at a Abu Garcia Vendetta rod and I think it had an ACS reel seat, and surprisingly it's not uncomfortable. Just different feeling. How do you all like it?? Not necessarily the rod, but any rod that has an ACS reel seat, or any of the other minimal reel seats that are 2 piece, or even the TCS reel seat that has no cutout??

I noticed the Lew's reels have deeper spools on their cranking models. Is this desirable in a reel for deep cranking?? Is it because you may want to use heavier line and it can hold more that way??

:blink: :blink: :blink: :blink:

Both. I switch off based mostly on what rod/reel will effectively present the bait the best, but sometimes it's for no other reason than my hand just got tired holding the rod in one position and the other will allow it to rest. Also I cast baitcast right handed while spinning is left, so if my casting arm gets tired, then I switch. And like Goose said, sometimes it's just a whim. I'm a tackle junkie, so I get both just cause I like both.

I like my Citica better than my Curado. Don't know why. Just seemed nicer in hand for some reason. Maybe it was knowing it was nearly the same reel for a lot less money. Maybe it was the green paint vs. the silver (silver looks better). Who knows?? Maybe it's the rod I have it on, it feels lighter overall cause the Citica is on a M/F while the Curado is on a MH/F. I still enjoy fishing the Citica combo more than the Curado though. It might even be what I'm fishing with on them too. I use the Curado combo for heavy jigs and spinnerbaits while the Citica gets lightweight jerkbaits and shallow crankbaits. I was even considering selling my Curado and keeping the Citica, but then the bottom fell out of the market since everybody was getting them new for around $60 or less. Now I'd be better off keeping it for what I'd get out of it. It was a gift to me from mom and dad so I have nothing in it but my parents paid full retail for it so any sale on the cheap would be a serious loss.

Nevermind, a quick search on the website and I found the schematics showing it's made exactly like I would want. SWEET! That reel looks awesome. I'm surprised they aren't promoted more in the local shops and the big box stores as well. Based on the descriptions and features compared to price, strictly speaking from an "on paper" point of view (having never handled or seen one up close) I would think they would outperform every reel offered on the market in their price range, and a few that are higher up. They look really good.

Looking at the pics of the Optimus reels on the website, they have a cover in the center of the handle crank shaft where there would be a nut holding it on the main shaft....if one were there. Is this simply covering a nut that can be removed to take the handle off, or does the handle come off some other way, such as tightening the drag down all the way and then turning the crank backwards to unthread it from the shaft like some Pflueger reels do?? The reason I ask is because I do all my own reel maintenance and I like reels better that the handle can be removed by unscrewing a nut to take them off. I just trust that system more, is all. Those Optimus reels look smoking hot, feature loaded, and I'd sort of like to try one, but only if it's made like I would want. They aren't sold locally so I have no way to check one out up close.

If I'm not wrong I think the different sizes of those reels come with different grips. You might get one from another size of the same reel in that series to see how you like it. What model is yours, number wise I mean?? 2500, 1000, or other??

So, being lighter in weight aside, do you think overall that they perform well without the inserts, or would you rather have the inserts?? I'm trying to stay open minded about it, but I'm leaning towards inserts being my preference, which it always has been.

I looked at that combo today at Walmart. The rod is really limber, seems like it might make a good light weight crankbait rod, such as for Bandit 100's and 200's. I like the EVA splitgrip it has and the reel is OK, but I'm not a fan of a casting reel without an aluminum frame. For a moment I considered getting it just to get the rod for what I was mentioning above, and then selling the reel, but after some thought I figured I could just spend that much on a cranking rod I would want, uh, shall we say....more long term. Still though, if you're on a tight budget then this is a way to get a cranking rod to supplement your jig/spinnerbait rod. Even the reel is not bad, it's smooth enough.

I'm not afraid of guide damage myself. I was mainly asking about how it would wear the line if I use fluorocarbon or co-poly, or even mono. Also how it would affect cast distance. It's good to know it would handle braid though. See, about 15 years ago I read that SS guides on rods were not good at all. Line friction among other things was just bad. This was in a Bassmaster magazine. And I know that it has been a long time since then and things have mproved significantly, but I still get caught up in what I think I know sometimes so I'm just scheptical is all. I have never tried any SS guides at all due to that single comment all that time ago.

How would you say these compare in weight to and Ugly Stik Lite, or the Lite Pro from Walmart?? I'm currently using Lite Pro rods for my medium and deep diving rods. I have two of them, a 6'6" for medium divers, and a 7' for deep divers. I think I can swing an upgrade for a lighter cranking rod for at least one, the one I use the most anyway, which is the medium diving rod. I was interested in these simply because of the price and the pictures make them look well made. But, I plan to look here at the local shops also to see if they have any of the old Compres left at a discounted price. I could probably come up with anywhere from $60 to as much as $100, which I know would easily buy a cranking rod on the higher end of the price range, but I don't want to lay it all down if I don't have too.

Does anyone have any experience with the Browning SilaFlex rods from BPS?? Seems they are fiberglass from reading the descriptions. I think that would be a bit heavy but might make a decent cranking rod.

What do you all think of stainless steel guides that don't have any inserts?? Like the ones on Browning's Hi Power rods, they are SS304 guides by Pac Bay.

I like the way the colors look but I'm not sure I like it on a rod. Would look good on a "mini truck" though. Dare I say it....looks like a "girl's rod".

Hmm....you've given me something to think about. I'll have to study on it some to see what conclusion I come to now. No hard feelings. Just a friendly disagreement. Sorry if I came off sounding contemptuous.

It can be done. If you're going to the trouble to open it up for that then I'd also swap out the bushing on the drive shaft for a new bearing like the Curado has also.

My explanation is the same as before. Releasing too late. Anytime the lure goes in a direction you did not intend, it's either you released too early or too late. That's just physics. When using spinning gear you are releasing line with your finger. When using casting gear, it's your thumb. Two different appendages. One might have 50 years of experience while the other has none and it has to be learned. The ability to cast accurately is a function of timing, just as you said. But you know this nearly instinctively with spinning gear and do not have to think about it. With casting gear it's the same thing again, but using a different method of grip and release and it's not nearly as easy to learn as with spinning gear. Those starting out on casting gear have that fear of backlashing and are overprotective of it while trying to cast. That's the reason they hold on too long and the lure goes to the opposite side of their casting arm (left for right handed casters, or into the ground on overhead casts). You don't hear too much about it flying off to the same side as the casting arm or straight up into the air as with releasing too early. Spinning gear is much easier to learn. For me it just took a few casts to get the hang of it and that was about it. Accuracy came later but I could cast straight out within minutes. Also, there is no backlash, even if the lure hits the ground or doesn't go where you wanted otherwise. Not to mention, you are maintaining a grip on the rod the whole time so it feels like you have control and there is much less of a learning curve. You just need one loose finger to hold and release the line. The grip is still there even with the loss of the one finger being loose. For casting gear your thumb is controlling the reel's braking. You have to grip with only 4 fingers and no opposable thumb to help, which is not the natural tendency. A person swings a rod and tries to let the thumb pressure off at the same time. There is a fear of backlash and there is a subconscious fear of throwing the rod out of their hand as well. They are making their hand do something that it has not had to do before and it's hard. Most people have strength of grip with their thumb and fingers together and it's not a natural thing to grip an object and not use your thumb. Yet this is just what is required to use a casting reel, especially one handed. I grip my rod using mostly my 4 fingers, one in front of the trigger applying moderate pressure, and the other 3 behind it squeezing fairly hard, and my thumb has no grip on it at all so it can be totally loose for the control of the reel's spool speed. If the thumb plays any role in gripping at all, it's with the large muscular pad near the palm of my hand only. The only time the thumb itself has any grip is during the swing of the rod to apply pressure to the spool to prevent a premature release of line. After that it must let off completely at first and then apply either a very light steady pressure, or an "on and off again" pressure to act as braking for the spool. I think this is an acquired skill that must be developed in order to become truly good at using casting gear. If you do not disagree with my statement about the lure being released at a certain point in the rod's swing arc, then how can you say it's different for each reel?? The only thing the reel does is hold the line and let it out. It absolutely has nothing to do with direction of travel. Without the rod you could not even make the cast. The rod provides the momentum for the lure, even the tip action of it affects it by how well it loads under the lure's weight during the cast. At a certain point, the line must be released to cast, and at that point it makes no difference whether you are letting go with your index finger, or loosening your thumb from a spool. All that matters is that at that point the line must be free to flow or the lure will continue to travel along the arc path as the rod comes around instead of going straight out. If, then, it is released it will go the wrong direction and that would happen with spinning gear or casting, either one. Since I feel there is so much needed for casting gear learning, I would say start out learning to cast straight ahead. Do this in open water or an empty field where accuracy is not needed. This is to learn the function of the reel and what's needed to make it cast and have the lure travel in the direction you think it needs to go. After you get this, then you can concentrate on accuracy. Once you learn to cast it, you will be able to look at a spot and not the rod or reel and hit it with some degree or accuracy.