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RedG8r

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  1. :-? I counted 13 responses there Again & this is from my own research over the last half decade. There is no clear, pourable casting resin suitable for crankbait lips without using the industrial urethanes from companies like alumilite & Smooth-on. They are readily available, but get yourself intimately acquainted with the MSDS sheet, they might not even sell it to you unless you can prove you are an industrial manufacturer. Main concerns: Pressure cast - the urethane is somewhat less viscous & will hold air bubbles unless they are compressed until cured. Added toxic exposure - Read up & you will see the product needs much ventilation & personal respiratory protection. Post cure - The castings need to be baked to attain its intended hardness & strength, not a biggie, but it is an added step. Again, my recommendation would be to make or buy polycarbonate or high impact injected diving bills, add them into your mold, then cast your featherlite or urethane foam. If you do decide to try the industrial urethane clears, please report your findings to us here & @ TU if you dont mind. All the best, Jerry "redg8r"
  2. Hi Terry! Greg, I'll bring tackleunderground to you 8-) Aluminum doesn't react with polyester resin, actually its an old car audio trick to line the interior with aluminum foil to allow the polyester "cast" to be removed. When you mention Fumes & excess heat, that means pretty much one thing........ You over-catalyzed the resin. Pay attention to the ratio from your supplier, most are 10:1 & its easy to over catalyze. When that happens you usually get shrinkage & excessive heat, sometimes to the point that it cracks or even burns. you can actually under-catalyze your molds, just be prepared for a longer cure time. Hope that helps, Jerry "redg8r"
  3. RedG8r posted a Community Map marker in Members

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