Paul Roberts

Good post. I hadn't thought about having to break off (I use a mono leader too). But I'm in a float tube so this could possibly be a safety issue. Here's an interesting observation on the subject of braid and catchability from a really good site: http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/2008/09/interesting-but-relatively-meaningless-observations.html

If I'm thinking of the right spot Lee, you can name about 5 plant species in that weedy pass. I also like the north end of that same boat trail, toward Brahma Pass. Instead of saying "let it sit", I should really have said to "bottom drag" the worm. After the Big Stick reaches bottom, impart a sharp 'double-twitch' basically in place, then do nothing for at least 3 seconds (more than 3 is fine, but no less). Repeat till the worm is out of the strike zone or if you feel the terrain is stale, simply drag it a few feet to new terrain. The Big Stick has frequently produced for us, when no other lure was working. We're headed out today, and looking out my window we're in for some choppy water (bring it on). Roger OK...adding the Big Stick. Then...I'm through with the game! Lessee... whole season: Orig Rap X-rap Grub/tube Swimming worm Mango dog mini buzz frog med crank deep crank ... Big Stick? ... But I've got this one pond that needed finessin' this year... and I've another that needs an Arkie head-n-craw.. and a few that are so clear that I need translucence and another I need to punch some... Guess I'll need a "little" box for each pond.

NO, not giggy sticks, they're too wimpy. The 7" Big Stick would be perfect for those Colorado toads. Don't have any of those either. Hooo-boy, wife's gonna be mad.

"When the wind is from the North, wise fisherman should go forth. When the wind is from the south, wise fisherman should go forth. When the wind is from the east, wise fisherman should go forth. When the wind is from the west, wise fisherman should go forth. Oh yes, and... When the cows are flying, you should stay home -preferably in the basement.

Think past the pads. About what's under the water. Look for depth changes, or other changes/edges in substrate or cover, esp near sharper breaks to even slightly deeper water. Try various lures. Location is first though!

Roger, I don't have any Giggy Sticks! ;D

Wonder how long that'll last? ;D Up here, when it snows, we notherners break out the catalogs. Has nothing to do with fishing really. Every time I make room in my boxes, I go ahead and fill it. So...have you sold off the 35lbs remaining? Or keeping it all for a rainy, (or snowy) day? ;D

In reality it's physics rather than theory. Speed and power move in opposite directions like a seesaw. If the rod-tip is traveling farther with the same effort at the angler's hand, that's proof-positive that the angler is dealing with reduced power (a NON-stroker rod). As previously noted, speed will give the angler greater distance, but only at the expense of power (it's a choice). Roger I suppose that's why softer rod potentially casts further -because of increased tip travel?

What is cranking ability? Do you mean power / torque?

J Francho will likely have a lot to say on this too.

There's another element too: See roadwarrior's response in this thread, about casting distance and rod action. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1141187546

I'll ask anything to keep a discussion going. Trouble maker I am. I actually read it as you meant it advantageous rather than technical leverage'. But some of us are just picky, which leads to good conversation. Good thread I think.

As others have said you actually have less leverage over a fish with a longer rod. As the rod gets longer the distance to the fulcrum point (right in front of your hands) increases which increases the force necessary to control the tip. I like a rod with a longer fore grip, when battling a larger fish my hand is always up on that grip giving me a bit more leverage. I landed a couple of lemons last year in the #150 range on spinning holding my rod that way. The very reason for the split fighting grip on big game fly rods. Length for casting and hook setting (tip speed), and shorter for lifting power (leverage). Interesting that a lot of "long rods" for bass fishing also have long handles, meaning you are holding it further up the blank when fishing and fighting, however we are holding the handle down on the grip in casting for distance.

You know, I can't help but feel that you can know, or have an inkling of something that might pan out. It might be called "thinking out of the box", but I think it's about expanding your box. If one didn't know what the walleye, or salmon, or muskie, or... you name it, guys are doing, you'd be missing out on a lot of really good potentials. Trolling may be a "forgotten science" in bass fishing, but it's not in a lot of other angling realms. OK Glenn... How about a mutli-species methodology/techniques exchange forum?? Would that be like putting cats with dogs, and throwing in some chickens and cows too?? ;D

Cool idea. I keep doing that too -with a certain reel I would love to try. And I can really make the case that my old 80s Bantam MagPlus needs replacing. But I can also just put new bearings and drag washers in it. Advice from someone doing the exact same thing. If the Series One will really represent an upgrade, and you won't endanger your family life -go for it. I'm not certain I gained all that much. Won't know until I fish it. And there's always next year, when I'll really be able to test things. I'm really into spinning tackle season now anyway. We'll see if I heed my own advice.

Long rods are advantageous, but apparently not in terms of "mechanical leverage". That's why rods used for the really big game fish are short with powerful winches on 'em. One possible advantage to the loss of leverage in long rods could be sensitivity and feeling the fight. Any thoughts? Roger??

This is a great thread. I guess I like to have the important stuff on the table. Listing large numbers of "bearings" doesn't pass for quality, it can be a marketing tool. All I think is why am I paying in weight and $ for all those extra bearings? Appreciate the expertise here as always.

It's probably not your line choice because this is a big problem that IU have seen with tubes. The spin on a faster retrieve, not so much when fishing them but in transit back when you reel fast so you can get another cast in Ahhhh...yes. The line will enter in too, or make things worse, but I think you guys are mentioning another important part -the location of the line tie. Where the line tie comes out of the tube matters a lot. Biggest issue for me when rigging tubes, esp when trying to rig weedless. Anything less than a 90deg eye is unstable with a tube. I gave up on internal weights except for flippin'. You gotta play around with rigging a lot depending on the tube. It's a pain and a project. But in my mind tubes are worth it. Luckily bass take falling tubes so well that the retrieve plays a much lesser role -still I like the opportunity to fish "the fall" several times in a cast, and hate those spinning tubes. Some good combinations: -90deg ball eye on any tube (in mostly cover free water) -Shank weighted EWGs (but you don't get the head down fall). -Luck-E-Strike G2 weedless head pushing eye out near top of tube head, and slow retrieve. -Owner Bullet Head in Gitzit (hollow head). Bend hook eye up a bit to inc angle and push eye out top of tube head. -Other 60deg tube heads with clearance below tie (I think mine are Matzuo or Owner) on which I whip on a mono or wire weedguard. -Lastly, I'll clip off the bottom tentacles leaving tentacles only on the top side which helps stabilize it. If you come up with something else, post it. I'm all ears.

Can we stay on topic? (I should talk eh? lol).

Well, mine came today. UPS driver is a fisher too so we opened it together lol. He helped me unveil a Techna AV the other day too. He likes delivering to my place. ;D No real review here as I ain't fished it. At the outset it looks nice. Nice balance/feel: stiff as a soda straw -like that! I'm sure it will handle spinnerbaits just fine. The guides are those SS inserts -been around a long time. People complain about them not being a ceramic -looking cheap -but years ago a Daiwa rep told me they were very good super light and long wearing guides but that they wouldn't put them on higher end rods bc peole think they are like the old chromed metal guides. Don't know the techie details though. They ARE tiny and light. I like 'em. Cons: Despite it's nice rigidity and balance, it's heavy: 5.3oz. That's more than the same length and action $40 Shimano Convergence (IM6) I was replacing it with -at 4.75. The more I see of Shimano rods in general, the more impressed I am. But the truth will come out in the fishing. Sensitivity is a combination of weight, rigidity, and (maybe) balance. Balance I can adjust, the other two you pay for. It appears the "extra" mass is in the built up butt section of the Series One. Put a reel on it and the tip appears to "disappear". The Convergence lacks this hunk-o-material at the butt, but it feels more rubbery -the IM6 I suppose. When I hold the Series One, I can already feel those spinner blades! We'll see. Con #2: The old ABU Ultra-Mag XLT2 I was going to use on it just barely fits in the reel seat! Bummer. There's a hump in the seat that gives barely enough clearance for the reel foot. I have to crank down to max to get it to stay put. I might be able to shave the seat down a bit but it's got some kind of rubbery no-slip coating on it so it won't be pretty. Might just need another reel . Won't my UPS driver be happy. BTW: I like the high tech split handles. The first Kistler Helium i saw made me drool. I bought one (7fter at 3.8oz 8-) With a USREEL 230 the whole rig weighs less than all my other spinning reels alone.) I like high tech as long as it's useful. I loved Tennessee handles: Nothing like taping your reel on. Some of the new toy handles are ridiculous though. "Light saber" is a good description. Hey J, that's quite a shirt you have there. Does the whole shirt look like that, or just that sleeve? Ceiling fan huh. Lucky I don't have one, cause I'm doing a lot of imaginary fishing lately too.

Actually, the longer the rod the more leverage you give to the fish. This is the reason why "stroker rods" used for shark, tuna and billfish normally range between 5 and 6 ft in length. Rod length can be likened to a transmission, where the short rod represents low gear (more strokes & more power) while the long rod represents high gear (fewer strokes, less power but more speed). Roger Yeah, what he (Roger) said. http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/long-rods-and-leverage-it-aint-so.html

I assume you are using spinning tackle? -Stay 10# or below. -After you load your reel, drag it behind the boat for a minute or so, and repeat occasionally as you fish. -Keep the spool of line wet. Fluoro doesn't soak in water like mono but keeping the spool wet does help some. -Manage your loops by feathering, making sure the initial turn goes on tight. -Keep your eye on the spool for loose loops. -The above can be more of an issue if you are fishing a light jig or sinker weight. -If you are new to spinning tackle, you might want to use mono until you get used to line handling required. Fluoro is more wiry than mono, esp damp mono; It'll magnify errors.

I was gonna say -all I need is a ceramic backlash LOL. Guess I'm safe though huh?

Well...you'll still have to fish for them, especially in winter. They'll probably start holing up somewhere. But it's early yet. You'll KILL 'EM. No luck needed.

I wonder if a trolled wake-bait, like off a board, might find some use in such waters. New frontier? Or needle in a haystack? Interesting thought anyway.