J Francho

Jerkbaits are great for largemouth up here in spring when there are little to no weeds, and the fish are relating to structure like a boulder field, deep channel, or distinct dropoff. In cold temps, long, long pauses will get bit. I'm talking loooong pauses, like 30 seconds.

I would move on and not bother with comparing either CX or Fluoroclear, as they aren't even in the ballpark compared to Yo Zuri or CXX X-tra Tough.

There is reel fill line, and there is leader material. Since stiffness and memory are not an issue with leader, no compromise is made to make it stay on the spool. Leader material is tougher and holds a knot better than reel fill line. Both work fine as leaders, but leader material is stronger.Reel fill: http://www.p-line.com/product_detail.php?id=102 Leader material: http://www.p-line.com/product_detail.php?id=105

I'm 90% sure this was a knot that used for steelheading with braid last winter, and it is a good one. Never a failure at the knot, even after several 10#+ fish. It is difficult to tie though. I dont use braid with chromies anymore, to it isn't necessary. I'm not sure if its worth fixing a non problem for my bass fishing, but I may revisit this.

That's my method as well.

I'm not sure I like the idea of running the drill against the drag washers, even if loose. Seems like a good way to wear out the washers fast.

I only use a FC leader (and I use LEADER MATERIAL, not reel fill) when dealing with abrasive cover or structure. The easiest and smallest profile knot to tie is a triple surgeon, but this is the first to fail from abrasion. A back to back uni connection is much more durable. If I am using a mainline that is much smaller in diameter than the FC leader, then I will first use a spider hitch knot to double the mainline, and give the leader something to bit into.

Thanks

What makes you think you're foolish? I have done well with these: http://www.secretweaponlures.com/sidearm.htm

KVD L&L resolves that issue. Also, its so strong, no need to go over 12# for *most* applications.

Its just a means to cut out the ten minute wait for a Senko to fall in 15+ FOW. Works great. I'll often use a 3' drop line, and the bait is in that "zone" much quicker than the guy waiting forever for it to get down there. It zips down through the unproductive water, and then does its thing for the last few feet. Very effective.

My observations of various P-line products: CX Premium = junk, F. CXX X-tra Tough = A+ Fluoroclear = junk, F 100% Fluorocarbon = OK, B- 100% Fluorocarbon Leader Material: + Very Good, A-

I think that rig is ridiculous, LOL. He's one of those insane, creative, geniuses. I have occasionally snagged my own rods in the holders behind me. I've gotten used to them being there now. I use a thru-hull transducer for my unit. Its very convenient. You can see it installed in the scupper hole here:

Bassmaster and FLW both have excellent articles, though they seem like they are written for a 10 year old. My favorite is In~Fisherman, but then again, I do spend about 10% of my fishing time targeting other species. If you are a bass only person, BM, FLW, and Bassin' are probably the way to go.

I think your right. Funny tidbit: we used to sell the small spotted juvies to aquarists. I knew they got big, but I had no idea.

Only once, when I was forced to, since I didn't bring usual TW rod to a TX - a 6' MH/Fast. I threw Sammy 100's and Spittn' Images. I'm only 5-7 and use a downward stroke for TW, so a shorter rod suits me. I didn't like the moderate action for them either; I felt a little disconnected from the bait, despite it being a very sensitive rod. I suppose if I didn't know better, I'd get used to it. Anyway, the AVC70MM is very well suite for 3/4 of my cranking needs. For the big deep divers, I plan to add a AVC70MHM with the same reel.

AVC70MM with a Daiwa Sol is what I use for small to medium cranks. It throws peanut size cranks just fine on 8# P-Line CXX.

Spook, Gunfish, Sammy, Jitterbug, Spitin' Image, Devil Horse, whatever they are biting I like. Baby bass, chrome, Aurora, Chart. Shad.

The winter pork thing is a myth. I throw both ALL times of year.

OK, I did not make it clear. When one end of the paddle dips into the water, the other is higher than my head. Any water carried by the paddle then runs down the handle to the ring, then off the ring, into my lap. As I said, it may have been my technique in using the paddle. It wasn't a waterfall coming off the drip ring, but after a few dozen strokes, it was probably a couple of cups. This video shows water coming off the paddle onto the deck of a kayak. In my canoe. there is no deck, and that water ends up on my legs and lap. http://search.live.com/video/results.aspx?q=paddling+a+kayak&first=21&docid=221996056647&FORM=TVVR14 gotcha...yeah, the paddle he's using wouldn't make a mess. My paddle is a lot longer. He's in a SIK, and wearing a skirt on hull that is totally different than mine. I can't do that stuff w/ my kayak at all. My hull doesn't lean like that.Anyway, look at this goofball's rig, I'd just build something like LBH's jon. http://www.kayak-charters.com/html/signature_kayak.html

Wait, I think I get it now. Its probably because either the paddle shaft itself is too short, or you're trying use a kayak paddle like a canoe paddle. Most kayak paddles are 220cm. Since I have a wide beam to deal with, my paddle is 240cm. When one blade is in the water, the should not be over you're head.

Not sure why the paddle passed over you. That doesn't happen when I paddle. ??? At any rate, a little water doesn't bother me. I end up getting wet no matter where I fish. Its part of the deal with watersports.

3-6 feet.

You're probably right. Though there are more species than just Datnioides microlepis or the Saimese Tiger Fish. Five other species exist, and one of them does grow to 40cm+, Datnioides undecimradiatus and inhabits the lower Mekong. Remember as well, the familiar striping we see in aquarium residents is juvenile coloration. The barred pattern breaks up as the fish matures. My other guess would be some type of saltwater rockfish, grouper, or snapper. Anyway, its just a guess, but its not anything related to the Centrarchids or Moronids (sunfish and stripers). Someone familiar with fishing in China would have to chime in.