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J Francho

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Everything posted by J Francho

  1. They are the same bearings. Flush the grease out with acetone baths, and oil with the included Bantam oil. You'll be way ahead an out of the box Shimano anything with regards to spool speed.
  2. You'll be fine. Good luck!
  3. I turn two or three on my Chronarchs, and forget them. My Calcutta has four on. The rest of my reels are Daiwa, and use Mag - Z/V brakes. All my spools are pretty much set to completely free, no tension on the cap. I could care less if someone thinks they are a crutch, so long as I can cast without backlashing, and keep catching.
  4. These were cheaper than I could make them for, and work great: http://www.basswidow.com/
  5. Spheros is a decent reel, but it's specifically for saltwater, and the smallest size is 3000. Personally, I find the Stradic more refined. If you want to save, drop to the Symetre or Sahara; they come in 2500 size. You can't go wrong with any of these reels, though.
  6. Not sure what you mean by "under powered," with a spinning rod, you want to rely on the rod, not the rel for power to move the fish. I caught this fish using a Stradic 1000 and 20# braid. I didn't feel under powered at all. What rod and reel were going to use?
  7. I have a mix of both, there's not much difference between the two lines. LTB's "fast" and "X-fast" are a little faster. They are a little lighter as well. Both are "picky" about what reel feels "right," or maybe I'm just picky. Either way, you're getting a solid rod.
  8. IT Consultant.
  9. Northern Pike.
  10. You don't NEED a bearing upgrade. Carbontex is worthwhile, though.
  11. Sorry for the off topic stuff, but it just goes to show.... Forget what this guy said, bass boats are EXPENSIVE, even if you buy used, LOL:
  12. I don't know about new props, you may be better off looking at used, but what a buddy told me was he would bring his munched prop to stock for $150 ish. I gotta think mine can't be much more, since it's just a 13.5 X 22P Lazer II.
  13. http://marksprops.com/orderform.html
  14. Mea Culpa, sounded like you were starting with a 90. You're probably better off spending the dough on a prop job. Is yours a stainless? Couple hundred bucks, and no turning a reliable motor into a potential PITA. I'm getting mine done, since I nicked a blade anyway.
  15. I'm arguing against myself? That Mercury sucks because it costs less to simply repower than to "rebuild" a 90 into a 115? LMAO. They do this to make it CHEAPER FOR YOU and make better margins. I am not confused at all. Sell your 90 and get a 115, if you want to go the cheapest route. Ripping apart your 90 and trying make into a 115 will cost you more. If you think it's simply a "reprogram," you are mistaken. The LU alone blows the budget. Think about it. If it's only $325 difference, don't you think using the same platform has just a little to do with it? The whole reason they have to offer three different sizes is something you posted yourself - hull specific HP ratings. So, what don't I get again?
  16. It depends on the turbidity of the water. Scientists and field researchers use a secchi disk to measure visibility. I figure light penetration is roughly the same thing.
  17. Yep, the heavier jig thing is definitely a vertical, reaction thing. Fish has to bite, or miss the opportunity to eat.
  18. Pay attention to what it feels like when you're not getting bit. If it starts to feel different from that, SET THE HOOK!
  19. Blue is an east side thing. I won a tournament there using a white frog, so what the heck do I know. The main point is, AA asks a lot of questions about specific, yet almost trivial details rather than just tying on and fishing. Try it out man! You tell us what worked for you. That's the best part about fishing.
  20. Read above. nice_Bass complained that Merc used the same parts for different models - something the car manus have been doing since the invention of the internal combustion engine was put in a horse buggy. That's where the idea that it was a "simple software swap" to upgrade a 90 to a 115. If that's what you want, here's a list of 115 LU, for a start. Looks like Boudreaux and Geautreaux are selling for a little more than a beer and a bee sting - note the cheapest a unproven relevant LU without a munched skeg is $400 + shipping. I'm not even sure what else you need to get to do it properly, but I'm going to wager that the difference is quite a bit. probably easier and cheaper to repower, and sell the current 90. I have no doubt you can cobble together a great running junk yard dog from spare parts. My dad's old Penn Yan woody had a 50's Johnson 65hp that worked fine, as long as you fixed whatever was wrong every spring. Didn't cost much at all, considering. But this was about turning a specific 90 into a 115. Buy the motor you want from the get go, it's only a few dollars more. It's A LOT MORE to DIY.
  21. Knock yourself out. When you go over budget, are you going to blame Mercury?
  22. Just an FYI, since I looked some of this up. The 75 and 90 have the same lower unit. A LU for a '04-08 115 was like $2200 for a pull-off. That included the $250 "core fee" which they use to eval of the housing, driveshaft, and propshaft. Already looking a little tough to get this under $325. That core fee leaves you just $75 in the budget, assuming you get the LU for free, or offset it by selling the 75-90 LU.
  23. Well, if you are there, throw it. For whatever reason, red works there. Many of us that fish there have figured this out. I suggest you figure out for yourself if it works where you fish.

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