whittler

There is a lot of interest in building your own crankbaits, topwater and swimbaits on not only this site but several others as well. Here is my take on how to do it but also how to ask the questions that can get you the kind of information you need. Most posts start like this, I want to build a swimbait/crankbait, what do I need and that's all the information given. The addition of what tools you have available and what your experience level will help a great deal along with an idea of what you are ready to spend to achieve you goal. Trying to mimic Big-M' or BobP's work with only a pocketknife and sandpaper will be tough. For a basic starting toolset you should have a knife, Exacto or utility knife will suffice to get started and a drill with a few small bits, coping saw, a pair of wire cutting and needle nose pliers. Add to that sandpaper of various grits, and above all a Plan. Not going to get into finishing just building. Materials needed can be about any type of wood to start, with Balsa or Basswood being my first two choices. Balsa is a great choice for cover type baits it is very light and responsive in the water, plus being very easy to carve. Basswood is heavier and a good choice for midrange and deepdivers, plus it is tougher than balsa. Both of these woods have a very minimal and straight grain, which aids in carving and finishing. For your prototypes use what you have and as your skills improve then start looking into better wood or even PVC. If you are making lipped baits there are really only three good choices, Lexan, circuit board and metal. Styrene/Plexiglas type plastics will break very easily and except to make a prototype/experimental bait should be avoided. Pick a bait design you like and use it as your starting point, trying to make a dozen different designs to start out can be a real hassle. Draw a pattern and cut several blanks from your chosen wood. With blanks in hand you can try different lips shapes and angles, different weighting options and line tie positions, all these things are critical. If nothing else remember that everything on the bait should be straight and centered, lips line ties and hook hangers. Once your baits are carved and assembled, seal them, don't worry about paint or top coats yet, test them and see what the various lip angles, weight position, amount of weight, and lip styles actually do on a bait. Once you have learned these things you are then you are ready to not only build some baits but what to do with baits that don't work as expected. Lots of help is available, just ask. There is nothing magic about building baits just practice and learn from your mistakes.

Ben, like Infidel, have to amdire your creativity and hope it works out according to plan. You mentioned Crazy Joe in one of your earlier posts and I think you guys have a lot in common on bait design. I would hate to see you both in my shop at the same time, who knows what might come out, but I'll bet it would be something bold and grab your attention.

Awsome looking baits Marty but I never expect anything less from you.

Those all look good but the bottom bait, blue back/pink stripe is one of my favorites. Caught a lot of bass the last two years on that color.

Ben, all the baitmakers that I know have a bucket full of those baits but they are the ones you learn the most from. Lesson learned, now get on to the next, looking forward to seeing the next bait.

If you were to put some wood, wire, hooks and paint in most guys hands they could make something that resembles a bait. If you put those same materials in the hands of a craftsman/artist you have one of Marty's crankbaits.

Old Texas Woodcarvers Shop, they carry it in bulk, 9oz. for $13.95. Godd folks to deal with.

Ben, can't tell for sure by the picture but it looks like an incapability problem with paints or topcoat.

Really nice paint there Jon, especially like the eyes.

If those run as well as they look Ben, they should be killer.

Cleaning is a lot like painting, each person will develope their own technique. I use distilled water with a teaspoon of dishwashing liquid for regular cleaning between colors and lacquer thinner when the brushes will be idle for a few days. Remember to lubricate the gun when your finished cleaning.

Like them all Marty but the first bait in the second picture would kill the smallies in the rivers I fish. One of my favorites.

The few times I have seen any yellowing with Devcon it has always been thinned with something. All three of the mentioned epoxies require that they be measured properly and mixed properly, when thats done all of them will work very well.

There are three main epoxies used by most bait makers who use epoxy, Devcon2Ton, Envirotex Lite and Flexcoat w/uv protection. With E-tex or Flexcoat you will need to rotate the baits while curing and with D2T you can just rotate by hand for 10 min. since it cures faster. There are many other coatings being used that can be dipped, brushed or sprayed and of those Dick Nite's is at the top of the list. Some the automotive type clears are also very good and quick drying but will require an exhaust system for spraying. Go to a local body shop and find out what protective equipment you will need before you purchase this stuff, most is quite toxic and very expensive.

RW, nailed it, for some applications the single hook is great. I usually use a single on small crankbaits and especially in the fall when there are a lot of leaves in the water. Most often fish for smallies in shallow, rocky rivers and the single hook comes through cover better than the treble plus the fish is easier to release. Still experimenting with hook type and have not noticed any difference in hookups compared to trebles. Wake baits over weeds is another situation where the single hook shines.

Excellent craftsmanship as always John.

That catch doesn't suprise me at all Eddie, Marty makes some fine cranks.

Although mine is not exactly a fishing kayak it works for my style of fishing. The primary thing I wanted was lightweight and easy to handle, the Ocean Kayak was my choice. Usually fish in waders and use the Kayak to travel between holes which makes the SOT a great choice. I do not carry a whole lot of tackle or equipment and most of my fishing is done on rivers, no fast water and very little deep water. I mounted my rod holder between my legs and if I carry a second rod it is tucked in behind me along with a small tackle bag. My paddle leash and paddle holders are homemade and just snap on, no holes to drill.

I like it, your father obviously has great taste in tackle.

Some exceptional looking baits there Marty, the bass have to find something in that batch they like.

Alright Jon, just stop it, I can see an intervention in your future. Beautiful work.

Gotta love bold colors, nice work.

Bob they use argon gas in MIG welding but I have no idea what the cost is. Somewhere I have seen an argon gas cylinder that is used to store wine, came in what looked like c02 cylinders for an air rifle. I'll probably think of where I saw it about 3:am. crank4bass, stuff sounds great but for my limited production I'm not sure it would be worth it. Thank you forr the information.

crank4bass, I have checked their site in the past but they do not give much information on their coatings. It sounds very similar to Dick Nite's at first glance. They don't give cure times or recoat times and they don't say that it is waterproff or just water resistant. A gallon seems to be the smallest amount they list and no prices and thats a whole lot just for testing for me. Thank you in advance for any more information you can offer on this coating. I would sure love to find something that has the toughness and look of epoxy that can be dipped.

Nice work there Toledo.