Mike 12345

Thanks for the replies guys- I do understand about the trailer angle, and agree with you on that. I think what is more puzzling is the fact that the motor won't rev up (increase RPMs) to allow the engine to build up enough force to trailer the boat, regardless of angle. Like I mentioned, the throttle (hot foot) works on open water, although its pretty tight- you have to push the hot foot pedal pretty hard. However, once its time to trailer the boat, you can push the hot foot all the way in, but the engine RPMs won't pick up. Only time it happens. I was initially thinking it was a throttle sticking issue when trimming the motor up, but then I shouldn't be able to get the hot foot to move if that were the case, right? Its almost like a throttle issue that only happens when trailering the boat, but it happens even if you don't touch the trim angle of the motor. Weird problem. Would the motor defuel or anything if the boat/ motor were tilted up half on the trailer?

Guys, here's the scenario- 19' BassCat Pantera II, 200 HP Mariner Mag Boat runs out fine on open water. However when power loading the boat onto the trailer, you can mash the Hot Foot all the way down and the engine will not push the boat onto the trailer. RPM's dont go up further than just above idle speed. Tilt/trim of the engine doesn't seem to affect the ability of the engine to rev or not. Any ideas as to why this might be happening? Thanks

Outstanding! Congrats!

I think the Abu Garcia Orra is tough to beat for the under $100 price.

I use a 4/0 or 5/0 EWG hook and jerk them weightless just under the surface. I also very much enjoy them on a Carolina rig.

I think it's also important to consider water clarity/quality when considering 'deep water', or 'structure' fishing. The better clarity/quality you have, the further sunlight will penetrate through the water column, and generally, the higher the levels of dissolved oxygen will be. Therefore, vegetation, as well as fish and their food sources (like plankton, shad, etc) will be able to live deeper. However, on lakes that are heavily silted, stained, and have poor visibility (on the lake I normally fish, you are lucky to get 8-10 inches of visibility) much of the food chain remains shallower, because that's where the best oxygen and food is. That's not to say you can't fish structure- absolutely you can. But I think that it helps you make a detrmination that fishing in 25 feet of water might not be the best start if your water is pretty murky. There are many articles written in magazines about this topic- I just thought it was another wrinkle to the puzzle that might fit in well with the discussion.

Chuck Norris sold his soul to the devil for his rugged good looks and unparalleled martial arts ability. Shortly after the transaction was finalized, Chuck roundhouse kicked the devil in the face and took his soul back. The devil, who appreciates irony, couldn't stay mad and admitted he should have seen it coming. They now play poker every second Wednesday of the month.

My brother has the 7'2 jig rod and its quite nice.

See, that's kind of what I was thinking. It seems like the football head style would work better under most scenarios when you would use this method. I'm just wondering when an angler might choose a ballhead over a football head- I mean, they make 'em, so there must be a solid reason, right??? Your suggestion follows my train of thought exactly- just wondering if I was off base.

Why choose a round-head shakey head jig over a football-style jighead? What will the round style do that the football-style won't do, and why would it be preferable? Is it the same principle as jigs in general, where a football-style head might be better for structure, while a round-style might be better for docks, etc?

When you sign up, you have to check a box or otherwise let them know (the website messed up for this years registration- you had to call in) that you are interested in riding on Day 3. You have to be one of the first to select this option upon registration to get into the Day 3 draw. If you don't do that when you register and pay, you probably won't get to go unless there are no shows and you slide in someone's spot while at the tournament. Only 12 guys ride on Day 4- you sign up at the registration meeting right before the tournament, and keep checking in with the officials to see if you get selected.

This was a known issue with the 5.4, and has been for some time. You can go to the 5.4 gas motor forums on www.ford-trucks.com (Ford Truck Enthusiasts) and you can read all about the causes, as well as remedies, for the condition. I don't remember all of the details, simply because I drive a Power Stroke, but you will be surprised at the wealth of knowledge you can find on those message boards if you are solution oriented and not there to bash Ford. Just FYI.

Was the pic removed? I'm not seeing it, but I'd like to!

Very helpful, thanks. I was confused if the different models represented different sizes or different depths. Thanks again-

I tried to search for this info, but only jerkbaits came up--- Can someone point me to a guide for the diving depth ranges for the 1.5, 2.5, and 3.5 models of LC crankbaits? Didn't see in on the LC website either. Thanks!

Yes. You need someone to hold the bag open, and then quickly close it when the fish are put in the bag. 20 - 30 lbs of fish get jumpy in a bag. Don't want one flopping out of the bag and the boat.

I have several Mojo's, and I have no complaints with any of them. I do have a couple of higher end Kistlers that I like better, but for a rod selection at that price point, I'm quite satisfied with the Mojos. They're no Loomis, but they sure aren't a Cherrywood either. I think that's sort of the point, though-

I'll try to 'nutshell' it for you. On the day before the tournament starts, you will go to registration, which is where you sign up that you are present, get your stuff, and all Marshals meet with the tournament director for guidance, further explanation of rules, use of BassTrak, etc. Then you go to the room where the pros are meeting, and you get paired with your pro for Day 1. You meet with them and come up with a time and place to meet the following morning. They may or may not ask for your help with the boat or the truck. After a day on the water on Day 1, when you get back to the dock for check in/ weigh in, you'll basically help the pro get their fish in the weigh in bag, see if they need help trailering the boat, and go see who your pro for Day 2 (or 3) is. This is posted just to the side or behind the weigh in stage. You'll call the next pro on their phone, and work out the details for the next days meeting time/place. Thats really all the mechanics of it- obviously, the rest of the time you are on the water with whichever pros you are paired with.

I use Spiderwire mono and Stealth braid and have nothing but positive things to say about them.

In my boat, the trolling batteries, charger or both are not working correctly (the charger shows power only on one of the two banks, but the battery does not charge or progress to the 'green' indicator). I can have the batteries tested easily enough, but can someone tell me if there is a fairly simple way to test the charger to see if its putting out the power that it should? I'd imagine a voltmeter would work, but does anyone have experience with this that they could help me out with? Thanks

I was pulling really hard for Kriet as well- he's a nice guy and works hard. I thought Lay Lake was setting up to be a big time finesse deal, which is why I really was closely looking at guys like Ike, Kriet, and Martens, etc, who are phenomenal with a spinning rig...but I was proven wrong. I have no disrespect for KVD at all, quite the opposite- I just wanted to see Kriet pull it out. On a different note, I attended the Classic- just got home. Just before the launch at Beeswax this morning, I saw something I found very refreshing. As all of the interviews were wrapping up, KVD made a point to approach both Kriet and then Faircloth and shake their hands in a gesture of sportsmanship I don't often see much of. I give KVD big props for that.

I just got one the other day. Curious, can you guys tell me how you remove the sideplate to access and adjust the brakes? Nothing about it in the manual-

I see now, the first split screen image actually has two time stamps- I was initially referring to the two images in Pic 1 look like different trees from the second image, that of the down scan + regular sonar. At any rate, its fantastic- please report back with some pics once you get on the water!

PIctures 1 and 2 are images of different trees, are they not? They look to be at different depths- Picture 2 is incredible- the differentiation between an actual tree and just a 'blob' on the traditional sonar. I'm trying to wait until I have an HDS 8 or 10 to sport for the LSS module (I wonder how much is clearly visible on my HDS - 5 screen) but things like this make it hard to wait.

Are you thinking that it's the pumps themselves that are leaking? I had not considered that, but I suppose residual water inside of the pump could have frozen and cracked the unit itself. If you are thinking differently, I'd appreciate hearing it- Thanks