mobster

Bad wiring with some bad/corroded contacts. Try taking the top housing unit apart and see if you can determine the problem. How old is the unit?

I have the sidefinder unit...and it is not worth the money. Very in-accurate readouts and is useless if you get over 3 mph. If you leave it in the water and are using your trolling motor at high-speed "5" then forget it....you will have to pull it out of the water...thus making it hard to find any structure. Also, it thinks 2 feet of water is 8 feet of water...?

The problem is the prop design. Trolling motors are made to do what they are called..."troll". If you notice all trolling motors have a very small pitch on the prop and therefore do not push much water out of the way. I know your frustration and wish that a company would design a better prop for those that use it as main propulsion. Does anyone know of a good solution?

I fish in a tournament that has only electric powered boats. Trying to figure out the best way to keep my catch alive for the weigh-in. Should I go with the SuperSaver that converts any cooler or is there any other option out there? More importantly a cheaper option?

Did the battery have any water in it...?

I have a 11 ft Crawdad with a 30lb thrust MinnKota....works like a charm. The only thing I suggest is a good deep cycle battery. A good battery will make all the difference.

Do they still make the Crawdads? How much are they going for? They are actually made by Pelican now. I think they are called pelican gators. Same thing as the Crawdads.

I have a Coleman Crawdad 11 ft and it is perfect. Not too big, stable and economical. Let me know if you have any questions.

I have a 1994 Coleman Crawdad and it is very stable. Mine looks just like Matt5.0 except it is green. Very stable, only problem is getting blown around on windy days.