J_Zink

I didn't use exact numbers for the beam but the first boat rates for a 120hp. The second, 105hp. I'll give you a better example. Champion sells their 183 line boat in both an entry level CX version and the upper end Elite version. Same boat, same identical hull. The CX is rated for a 150, the Elite at 175hp. Why? I've asked the question at *** on the Champion board and never gotten a straight answer. Those guys just bash you for asking questions. In essence, if you want the 18 foot boat from Champion and want the thing with the max HP motor for the best overall performance you're forced to buy the elite version of the boat to get it whether you want all the "Elite" bling or not. I still say the reason for under HP rating these boats is to create the illusion that the buyer is getting more boat for less. What's so funny is how the industry has changed from the way it was years ago. Back in the day, manufacturers used creative ways to measure boat beams (usually at the transom) in order to boost the HP rating on a typical bas boat. I'm sure you remember the old Skeeter Wranglers, Champion Super V's and the boats by Hurst. Those were little 16 foot jobs with a transom beam measurement of around 85". All of those boats only figured out to around 140hp for a max rating. Unless you didn't measure straight across at the back end of the transom but measured from the back corners, out to the setback and then back again to the other side. Suddenly max hp comes in at 150HP!! ;D Not illegal to do it that way though it was not in the spirit of how the measuring method was to be done.

Or, if you've visited marine dealers who have suggested that you try and match your hp of the motor to max recommended, it gives the illusion that the Nitro/Tracker is a more efficient boat. The reality is most Nitro/Trackers have plate ratings that in effect, under power them. The sad part is if you buy that boat and discover later that the power just isn't enough you can't upgrade the motor to what should really be on it without it causing problems with your insurance company.

Example?

(length x width x 2) - 90 rounded up to the nearest 5. The law states that manufacturers are not allowed to plate rate a boat above the number derived from this formula but are more than welcome to rate a boat below the figure. BTW, the ratings are only required on boats 20' and less.

The foil material is actually shielding that is supposed to prevent bleed over between your 2 sets of wires. Even though I also own a 160, I've never had to splice the x-ducer cable. I'm not even sure why they have a second set of wires. If you haven't already, you need to make sure you have an actual wire soldered from one side of the foil to the other. It's not really necessary to actually wrap the foil around the break, just that you make a solid conductive connection between the two sides and then wrap it with tape. I suspect your shielding is not making a connection. If that doesn't do it you're due for a new x-ducer.

I have 3 of the older RCX1000 reels in 5.2:1 ratio I use on my crankbait rods. Great reels.

Typically, a $2000 bass boat will wind up costing another $2000 in repairs and/or maintenance in order to make it safe and water ready. Save your money and fish as a non-boater.