J_Zink

You might want to think about making those anaconda's in an even larger size. I'm betting the cobia fishermen would definitely be interested in those.

Well, it sounds like one roasted lower unit. That's gonna hurt. I would start checking the forums. Ebay is another option though you take a chance of getting something no better than what you've got. Another place is Hardcore marine out of the Miami FL. area. They have a lot of used Yamaha parts. They have an online website and you can make inquiries via email. I've bought from them before with good success. As for your TM. Check the simple things first. Does the boat have a circuit breaker for the TM? It could be kicked. Breakers can go bad with age and will kick before their rated amps. Get a multi-meter out and start checking to see where your 12volts (or 24) is getting lost. Wiring connectors in older boats are very susceptable to going bad and breaking. That's where I'd look first.

Because that was one of the benefits you recieved when you joined BASS. Since when? Technically, since you had to be a member of BASS in order to fish a tournament, co-angler or Pro, it was sort of an unspoken benefit.

There wasn't any oil where? OB oil in the on-board tank? No oil in the reserve tank on the motor itself? In the lower unit? The Pro V's of that vintage are some of the strongest motors ever made but they do require oil in them to run properly. I would've checked those levels before taking the thing out myself rather than take the word of the seller. What kind of TM is it and what's wrong with it? As I stated earlier, I never assume or take the word of the seller that everything is water ready on a used boat. It's best to check all pertinent fluid/lubrication levels on the boat or trailer before hauling off to the lake.

I have a 21 year old Yamaha OB on my bass boat. It's just keeps on ticking but I have had to make repairs on it over the years. Your best bet to making any motor last include not running the thing without sufficient cooling water on flush muffs for long periods, good maintenance and above all else, don't over rev the thing when running.

A 17 year old vehicle with 270k miles on it pulling a boat? I think I would've prioritized and replaced the tow vehicle and scaled back on the boat if money is an issue. The boat can't drive itself to the lake. With a vehicle that old, it's not a matter of if it's going to break down but when. Having breakdowns on the road with the boat isn't any fun and will ruin any trip.

I owned one years ago. Well laid out. Heavy, almost overbuilt V-hulls that take rough water well but they're slow dogs, slower than a Ranger even.

Actually, Penske sold Nazareth to ISC along with Fontana and Michigan several years before it closed. IIRC, the grandstands from Nazareth were taken down and moved to Watkins Glen upon the tracks closing.

Michelins are probably the best but also the priciest. My 30 years worth of truck owning experience. Best: Firestone - Great wear. Even. No delaminating nor belt seperation. Even handling in all road conditions. BFG - Pretty good tire. Not completely happy with the overall handling, especially in the wet. Seemed a little uncertain on some wet roads. Great wear. Dayton - The Timberline series is the best tire I've ever owned. Superb wear and handling. Uniroyal - Currently on my truck. Pretty good tire. A touch noisy. The worst: Goodyear - They can't build a decent tire for NASCAR and Firestone ran them out of open wheel racing. Is it any wonder their tires suck? General - Run as far away from this brand as possible. Continental - It's funny, when the Firestone ATX debacle was happening, they were replacing them with Continentals, a tire with a worst tread seperation record than any other out there.

Go to NADA and then visit several used boat web sites to get average prices of the boats you're interested in. Then add about 5% or so if you're buying from a dealer. BTW, don't even think about dropping that much coin on any boat without taking it for a test drive first. If the dealer refuses, walk away.

A few things. $3000 - 4000 for that boat is about right if the condition is very good and the motor checks out. 1. The boat is underpowered by 25hp. Expect that boat to run in the 55 - 60mph range tops. 2. How old are the electronics and TM? 3. Given it's in the Phoenix area, what's the condition of the Gelcoat? It looks like it's stored outside. 4. Always check the transom on a boat that old. Pay particular attention to the aluminum transom cap and how well it's sealed along with the seal job on the engine mounting bolts. The 184 was one of the finest handling bass boats ever made. It drives like a sportscar even if under horsepowered. I would definitely shoot him lower on the price.

Wow. You need to get a grip. You're ruining what should otherwise be a great experience and it sounds like it's because you're rushing this process due to in-experience. I'd suggest spending more time in others boats. Spending some time having them teach you how to drive a boat so when you go out to look, you can take any boat you're interested in for a test drive and evaluate it for yourself. Don't bother asking on internet forums which boat or motor is best. It's a waste of time. Know that virtually all the major boat and motor manufacturers make quality equipment these days. Also know there are differences in how each drives and fishes. It's your own personal tastes that will match you to the correct boat. You need to get out in these boats and test drive them and stop listening to internet jockeys telling you which brand or type of boat or motor you need.

This whole thing appears to be bogus. http://www.drudgereport.com/flashim.htm http://thelede.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/07/10/in-an-iranian-image-a-missile-too-many/index.html?hp

Overtons sells a seat coloring system in a can. I have no idea how well it works.

IMO, those are really the same type of bait but meant for completely different times of the year. LC pointers would be considered a finesse type of jerkbait when a very subtle presentation is required. Normally if you're seeing the shad die off occurring in Feb - March (depending on where you're located) with water temps in the 40's - very low 50's, it's pointer time. Those baits really work well with the super slow retrieve: Cast out, jerk down to desired depth, stop, light a cigarette, drink some coffee, move bait a foot or so more, stop, drink more coffee, twiddle your thumbs, etc. etc. OTOH, I find the Xrap works better with warmer temps, mid 50's - low 60's. By nature that bait has a really erratic action that triggers strikes when it's worked quickly. That's a little faster than most bass in colder temps are willing to go chasing after.

Last report I saw had the fish holding on brush piles in around 7-10 feet of water around docks (obviously). This is kind of a typical late June-early July pattern down there before the fish drop down to the thermocline in around 20 + feet of water and the deeper brush piles. I would definitely be fishing larger worms in a Red Shad, Junebug, Tequila Sunrise color or the full sized brush hogs.

Table Rock is a real sleeper when it comes to the SM fishing. I don't go down there as much as I used to but when I do I wind up targeting the bronzebacks. Far more fun to catch than the LM's.

I would never venture out onto a larger lake with so little gas in the boat. As you just experienced, things can get nasty quickly. Think about how that scenario would've played out differently had you had enough gas in the tank to fire up the big motor and get back to the ramp area before the heavy rain and winds set in.

More than what it's worth and there's no guarantee the spiderwebbing won't reappear again down the road. It's caused from stressing on the fiberglass. It's quite normal in most fiberglass boats. Unless you have lots of money I'd just consider it part of the petina of the boat.

Contact your local Missouri conservation agent. The department is very helpful with small pond owners in assessing your water along with making recommendations on pond cleanup, fish stocking ratio's, etc. Also, the department has free literature on their website for pond owners.

I watched a couple older gals trying to haul in what turned out to be a 20-25lb grass carp. They were well equipped for the fight, rod and reel wise. She had one of those Wally World heavy Catfish/light SW spinning rods, more than capable of handling the fish. The funny part was when her fishing partner decides to wade into the lake and help land the fish carrying what looked to be a trout sized landing net. I suppose the head would've fit into the net nicely, what she was going to do with the rest of the fish is questionable. After her netting partner fell down a few times in the water the gal finally wound up walking backward and dragging the beast onto the bank.

That particular boat model is a 176. Pretty quick little machine and it handles like a sports car.

You can use tidy bowl alone or a very diluted concoction of tidy bowl and amonnia. Put water in the bucket first before adding the last two ingredients and keep your head back. This has taken some very dirty stains off my old white hulled boat.

Those isolator bolts like BPS sells are junk. I nearly lost a TM overboard when I hit a stump and the bolts sheared off.

Looks like Roller Coaster Tycoon III.