basscat1102

Just had my bench seat in my Pantera done, diamond pattern to match original. $250.00. Gray in color. Skins only of course.

The gears on the head kept popping off and disengaging. Thats the same thing that happened to my MinnKota. It happened several times.

I have had both brands over the years and I think both have there high points and there flaws. The last Minnkota I had was repaired 5 times in 2 years and every time it was the shaft pulling loose inside the head. I too use my equipment to its max sometimes. Minnkota does have a great dependable shaft but I think the interior components are not as good as the Motorguide. Motorguide does use a steel shaft and there for it will not come loose in the head but the shaft will bend if you hit something at a higher trolling speed. The tour edition Motorguide I believe is a better choice due to its all aluminum foot pedal, stainless steel cables and higher quality interior electrical components. I have said before, if Motorguide and Minnkota would merge and build a " Motor Kota" it would be the best trolling motor on earth. I to am looking to buy a new trolling motor, I will purchase a Motorguide, due to past experiences.

Me too

I have an Eagls 480 GPS on the front of my boat. I does a good job for me. However, after having it for several years now I wish I would have spent the $75.00 more and got a 500c. I dont know what the cost differance is now.

I use Quantum Hot Sauce. It has a Teflon base. I can tell the difference when I lube a reel with Hot Sauce over reel oils. The Hot Sauce seems to allow the reel to cast further and retrieve smoother. Be sure you remember or photo the inside of the reel before you remove all parts. You don't want parts left over when you re-assemble. Although reels look simple on the outside they can be deceiving on the inside.

PPG makes some awesome 2 part epoxy sealers. Its just like spraying another coat of metal if applied properly. The only down side is they have to be sprayed out of a paint gun. If you choose this method, make sure you follow al directions and spray several coats.

Bull Shoals is a great deep water impoundment. The lake was built as a retention lake to house flood waters from the White river chain of lakes. ( Beaver, Table Rock, Tanycomo ) It has areas that are 200 ft deep near the dam, and shallow areas in the rivers. The lake is abundant with small mouth, ( Brownies and Kentucky's ) Walleyes also thrive heavily and some have been weighed as big as 18 Lbs. ( not recently ) 4 to 5 Lbs are common. From 125 Launching ramp to the dam, the water can be very clear, You can see as deep as 20 ft. Standing timber is almost every where. Natural colors ( obviously) are a good choice. Jigs are very popular. Pick up some "old Ugly" or " Grass Hopper" colors. They can be very productive.

B E A utiful. Impressive.

You can contact any lure manufacture ( Bill Norman, Wiggle Wart, Manns, ect..) They all have and sell to public un-painted crankbaits. You can also contact you favorite sport shop, they should also be able to get them too. Be aware you may have to order in bulk to get any at all. They normaly dont sell one at a time.

The "Shaky Head" has been around for a long time. It is a great way to fish a bottom bouncing soft plastic lures. It has advantages over the traditional Texas rig. It keeps the tail of the bait pointing upward thus resulting in better presentation. Better presentation should reward you with more bites. My favorite is the football style shaky head made by Bass X jigs.

Bass x jigs Call Hook Line and Sinker ask for Aaron or Chris 479-631-8118 Truly on of the best jigs I have ever thrown. They will custom make anything you want or buy what they have in catalog.

Look for flaking in or around the damaged spot up tp 5 or 6 inches around. Feel of the surrounding area and see if it is soft or spongey feeling. Feel of the exposed fiberglass matting with your finger and see if it is wet. If it is wet you will have to dry it out ( blow drier, heat gun, fan) before you can do any temp. or permanant repair.

I use powder paints (powder coatings). Avalible in just about any color you want. I put the weight on the tip of a wire coat hanger, heat it with a butane torch and dip it in my color. It only takes about 10 minutes to dry and Im ready to fish.

Paints are divided up in groups: Water born, laquer, catalyst, epoxy, and air dried. All of these are generally divided up by: Single stage, Dual stage, and Tri-stage. Laquer has been deemed un-safe by the E.P.A. for many years due to its V.O.C. rate. (volotile organic compounds). There for color selection has faded away for many years. Calalyst and Epoxy paints are the most popular and for this reason paint companies (PPG, Dupont, Valspar, Ect..) put all there technology for color match in these systems. They also meet all V.O.C. rates manditory by the EPA. If your looking for color match and color avalibility, I would concetrate on these as discribed. They are not dificult systems to use in fact they are very simple and user friendly. They dry rather rapidly due to being activated by a catyalist. I am not a Water born paint fan for many reasons and I am not sure if they would come off during use or not. Water born paint has been used for years in the residential and commercial construction. Most exterior paits on homes are water based and once cured, its does not run off during a rain. I am not sure what the differance is or if there is any on what your looking at for your crank's. Hope this helps.

If yove a local auto body or boat repair shop, you might be able to find sandable gel-coat in a can (simular to bondo or other fillers). This is not to be used as a permanant repair but it will get you by for a while. Follow the directions on the can. Its spreads like bondo but its made for under water use and you dont have to paint it or add top coats. I have used it many times over the years for a quick repair until I have time to repair it correctly.

Depending on the severity of the fiberglass damage should warrant weather you want to fix it or deal with it later. If it gives you a sense of insecurity then by all means it should br fixed. I would bet a 10 pounder that 1/2 the members of this site have knocked the gel-coat of somewere on thier boat. Bottom, top or one of the sides. Some may know it and some may never know it. I would be a little concerned about a large chip on the "chine" area. Other wise known as the "hook". This area takes alot of friction and preasure as the boat is all full pad. Over a period of time it may become more damaged or chip larger depending of how you drive your boat and the speed you like to travel. You also might run the risk of the fiberglass absorbing water in between the gel-coat and matting, which will make the repair area more difficult and lengthy to fix for the repair center. If the damaged area were near the keel ot the boat, I would not be as concerned because it would be out of the water when boat is on pad. If this were my boat I would fix the damaged area a.s.a.p. depending of the severity of the damage.

the bps flurocarbin is what i was thinking about trying, how is it for abrasion resistance? how does it throw with a spinning reel?

I like to use Seguar but its becoming un-afordable. I have looked at others (trilene, yozuri, stren ect..) These seem to be more afordable to me. Does any one have experiance with these or another brand.

Flip, lip, net, or sling. Any way to make sure that fish clears the top deck and comes to rest in the livewell. Fishing is a bloodsport. It is not for the faint of heart. I like this guys attitude. I Agree.

Yesterday I sat in the boat outside the shop and cleaned reels and wiped down rods, in 65 degree weather. Today I woke up and decided to go to BPS for the spring classic. It started snowing on the way and when we left there was 2 inches on the ground. The trip home took us 3 1/2 hours. Normaly its a 2 hour drive. YES its on the way to you. you can have it all. HA HA.

I am not a glass rod fan, due to durability issues, but if you here anything inside rattling around when you shake it. I would exchange it not only for breakage issues but for that fact of making noise and transferring that noise down the line into the water. It was pretty common years ago, that rod builders would insert an inner core inside the fiberglass blank to add support for a Strong hook set or handling large fish.

Het guys looking for Daiwa TD1, TD2 or millionairs. Cv203 or Lunas. Parts or need repairs. Let me know.

I forgot to add, the kit to do a long bed truck cost about $100.00 in my area. This would be enough to do 2 boats, you might be able to split it with a buddy needing the same.

I worked at a boat repair shop years ago. I wanted a keel protector too, but could not afford a hamby. In this shop we also sprayed rubber and epoxy bed liners. I came up with an idea one day to try it for a keel protector. I tapped off the area, sanded it good, covered the boat with plastic and sprayed 3 coats on, which is about 1/4 of an inch. It worked great, and after 11 years its still there. I am no longer in that business but I have sprayed over 100 others over the years, all that have stayed on great with no complaints. I used the epoxy style coating, just for the durability, I would also recomend you do the same if you like the idea.