A-Rob

I won't say much on the rods, you got a lot of good advice there. I'd back up the talk on braid (65# is strong, and big enough diameter it doesn't slice up your fingers when drawing line). I snell a straight shank hook (Trokar or VMC for me, but whatever). Big tungsten weight whatever the cover calls for. Bobber-stopper to peg the sinker. Zoom ultra vibe craw on the end of it all for me. Don't forget dude, everyone loses 2 fish sometimes. Don't mortgage your house for it hahaha.

Rods: Daiwa Reels: Shimano Line: Power Pro (braid), Maxima (mono & fluoro) Hardbaits: Strike King (b/c I can't afford better) Softbaits: Zoom Storage: Browning Soft Bag with plano boxes and zip-lock bags

I got a curado and am able to use jigs I never used to be able to pitch before. So reel makes a big different. I could throw a weightless plastic on the curado for sure.

Stren Fluorocast may be worth looking into, its an ok line but mainly the price is awesome. So use that maybe before spending your budget on 1 spool of line haha.

I always positioned my boat to cast down-wind, that helped me out huge when I was starting. set up your reel just like everyone else said. Otherwise just practice.

P.S. Shaw Grigsby shows a nice way to cinch down the palomar knot, I use it all the time and it has helped big time with its reliability.

I got to say the palomar is a good knot and has done me well and I use it for heavy flouro (ie 20#) but I use the uni knot for 17# and under. It cinches up well (when 17# or less) and was rated highly in Bass Times, my personal experience, and an article on ESPN by aaron martens that sounded like he was yelling at me. I haven't had any flouro knots break on me with the uni. For me it's really easy to tie so I like that as well.

I used the line a bunch b/c I'm not sponsored by a Fluorocarbon manufacturer so I don't want to pay $30 to spool up haha. I used the 17# test on my lighter pitching gear and also on my worm rod. I had NO problems with it. It's got decent sensitivity, casts well, and I have yet to break a knot with it. I mainly tie UNI KNOT with fluoro as per Mr. Aaron Martens orders. (The 17# line cinches down fine in a uni knot if you snug it up) For the price I will use it a lot.

I think the only time I have seen that happen is if you have a birds nest and don't clear the tangled line before rocketing out your next cast, the line hits the dead end and snap. I've never had the problem myself. Spiderwire Stealth is decent braid shouldn't be the line.

J knot. No swivel.

I had a 7'0 MH Fast Fenwick for $80. HMX or HMG...I can't remember. I was pleasantly surprised with how it handled. I like it.

I have used grubs for jigs, so I know they will work at times, but 98% a craw style trailer will be a better option. When bottom bouncing a jig, the appendages on a craw are what entices the bass to bite...The only time I will throw on a grub is when I am swimming a jig. ...i don't think i agree with this statement. Not sure where the 98% number is coming from. Grubs can be a GREAT trailer, but depends on several contextual factors. I know a few fisherman who stick MONSTER bass and use grubs exclusively. Just have to tweek them and know where they function best. I use the single tail grub a lot when I"m throwing a swim jig to mimick a perch (or whatever your local simming forage is). I just swim it through weed lines, works good for me. I use chunks tho when pitching to structure.

I agree. Zoom makes a decent product for a decent price. I'd start there. I used to use the bigger version (super chunks) on heavier jigs all the time b/c they would slow the sink rate down, but the heavier jig was easier to aim and cast. I'm using the smaller trailer more now for a smaller profile jig. Got a better reel (and a bit of practice) and can pitch the lighter, smaller profile jigs. Nothing wrong with the big jig, but I get a more consistent bite on the smaller ones. Good luck dude!

I do both the above points organized by depth in my plano box and write the depth on it

I like both methods. If I'm fishing for smallies, I sometimes miss them by wacky rigging, I don't think they get the center of the senko in their mouth. If that's the case I'll downsize my senko or go T-rig. For largemouth, I often go wacky until the structure tells me otherwise, which isn't often and probably more my own fault for getting it snagged up haha.

Where's my free fishing gear???? hahaa

I actually stumbled across the Wave Worm style senkos. A lot cheaper and a decent action to them.

Red Shad or Candy Bug in dark water Watermelon or Pumpkin red/magic/blue flash/whatever in clear water

I agree with the other guys throwing in the 5/16oz jig. If it is sparse cover that you are pitching to in shallower water the 5/16oz is nice. I like how you can put a smaller chunk on it, downsizing the jig, but it still falls at a nice pace. 3/8 oz and 1/2 oz are otherwise awesome sizes in my opinion. I do go to 3/4oz in 20 foot water...but you were just talking 1-10 feet. If stuff is really nasty/matted I switch to a straight shank texas rig with heavy bullet sinker instead of a heavier jig.

I use straight shank VMC Fast Grip hooks (good hooks for the value) in any soft plastic that I'm pitching. I honestly felt that switching to a straight shank helped stick more fish than the EWGs I used to use. I use a big 5/0 VMC EWG hook (looks more like a 6/0) for my 10" worms but thinking I should try a big offset worm hook. I wasn't having any hooking problems tho with that big EWG. EWG I tex-pose and the straight shank I bury the point half way into the plastic body so the barb is in and holds it in place. I heat shrink a bait keeper onto the straight shank hooks or it'll drive me crazy.

I think you'll notice a big difference with everyone's advice. You are really going to stick those bass! Good luck bro!

I picked up some Daiwa Procyons. Nice rods for 50 bones.

I back all my reels with mono. I back them to a level based on what I use the reel for. So if its my pitching stick I back it pretty full so I only have about 30 yards of good line on it (25# Fluoro is expensive! I use less of it this way) If I'm casting a frog or something, I wont back it nearly as full so I have tons of braid to cast.

I wish I didn't have to store my rods haha I usually support them so there is no lean in a rack or somehow. reels come off and drag and spool tension backed off cleaned and put back in their boxes. Then I cry.

I always used EWG hooks, but switched to 4/0 and 5/0 straight shank hooks. AWESOME switch. I increased my hooking percentage for sure. At first I wasn't happy with how high maintenance the straight shank was b/c my bait kept slipping down the shank, so.... I would get heat shrink wrap and make my own little bait keeper on the shaft. They have worked great for me, stick the bass nicely for me. Give them a try in your brush hogs.