boneman

i've got a pair of solar bat's with moss green lenses and a pair of bolle's with amber and i find i see alot more underwater under all conditions with the bolle's even though the solar bat's were marketed especially for sight fishing. boneman

if i had to generalize about smallie fishing i'd say focus on wind and rocks, particularly around points, drop-offs and other classic structure. it's a lot easier of course to fish where it is protected, but i've had the best luck fishing on the wind blown sides of points, islands, humps etc. tubes with anywhere from a 1/8 to 1/4 oz. jig head inside have also been a confidence bait for me. good advice about water depth above - once you've found some fish try to find structure/cover that intersects that same depth in other locations. good luck - let us know how it turns out. boneman

i sue the oldham weed guard jogheads a lot (the 3/16 oz. are the most versatile IMO) and you can either bend the guard back enough to insert into the tube and just keep threading the tube over the jig head (it helps the keep the tube bunched up ahead of the jighead or the guard will want to back out) or you can swing or turn the guard so that it is in line with the jig and do it that way. the second method involves twisting the guard a little and that can weaken and/or break it though if done too much. i generally use these jigheads with the BPS tender tubes which are very easily to puncture with the weed guard. i've used those hole punchers and agree that those holes are often too big which reduces the durability of some tubes. good luck

well i hope someone there can cash a check made out to ronnie because that's who i made my check out to

how do you rig your senkos - texaposed, wacky, just by the end? i've been wanting to try a floating worm or crank behind a crig to try to get up above the weed growth or maybe entice bass suspending above - has anyone had good experience with this approach?

Hmm - I was using spinning gear with 8 lb. mono with the fluke rigged that way and seemed to be getting a fair amount of twist. I haven't tried it since but maybe I will to see if I fare better this time. I like the idea someone posted earlier about putting cut up pieces of clothes hanger in the bait to get it down - I gotta try that as well. Thanks much, Boneman P.s. LBH is right - the action (or lack thereof depending on how you fish it) of these things is nothing short of mezmerizing. Definitely one of the more fun baits to watch - even if you're not catching fisf heh.

New member here, but I'd like to help. Should the check be made out to Ronnie Lamb? Boneman

good info in the first crig post although it appears to be locked so i decided to start another. i always heard that crigs are good 'search' baits, although the more i read the more it appears that they should be fished slow like a typical finesse type bait (which i have no problems believing as it seems that it's better to err on the side of slow vs. fast more often than not). my question is that if it's best to fish this bait slow, what is the advantage over a tube or other non-crig plastic? it doesn't seem that i can cast it any further than a tube - particularly if i'm using 1/4 oz. + to get it to summer depths. i would really like to develop some confidence in another bait to enable me to quickly explore unproven off-shore structure, but i'm finding it really hard to put down a proven producer like a tube, for a unproven (to me anyway) one - especially if i can't fish it any faster. does that make any sense?

nice thread - good info here. in my limited experience with flukes i've noticed a lot of line twist. do you guys use a swivel anywhere, periodically straighten the line by letting it all out behind the boat (rigless) or just live with the twist? thanks, boneman