Delaware Valley Tackle

RWs suggestions for a starting arsenal are spot on. For the specific baits you're asking about I'd go with a Med/Fast spinning setup even though they are treble hook lures. Presentation wise the fast action will give you better control than the Mod. imo. If I were to build a rod just for those baits, I'd probably go with a Mod-fast action in a 6'6" as I'm not tall.

Not in place of lessons, but in preparation, there are some good videos on You Tube. One series in particular but the name escapes right this second. Some big fly shop owner.

Chrome in bright sun, Gold in over cast. I keep limited colors but each in multiple sizes and depths, tight and wide wobble

x2 Also, internally the guts are the same I'd let features (brakes etc.) be the tie breaker.

Just as in casting and spinning it depends on what you want to throw, where you'll throw it and what you expect to catch. Fly fishing is fly casting. Take a lesson as suggested and develop good casting form. The results will be worth it. Go cheap on the reel, all they do is store the line. Do not scrimp on fly line. The line is what you're casting as opposed to the bait. Do some research on the different types of fly line and tippet (leader material). A line marked WFF (Weight Forward Floating) is a good all around line. Add a tapered leader and finish with a tippet section. There are some good articles to help get you started here: http://www.flyanglersonline.com/

A GOOD two piece rod will perform very comparably to it's one piece counter-part. The problem is, most over the counter two piece rods are cheap and aimed at the casual angler that takes the rod out of the trunk 3-4 times a summer. St Croix for one makes a line of good travel rods, or of course you can commission a custom build if find the need for a travel rod. As stated, it's more of a need than preference circumstance.

Anyone else catch Big-O on Gypsy Angler this past weekend? He was demoing the new Rage Bug for multi-species and as you'd suspect, it killed. An entertaining show and a great looking bait.

Spinning reel bails are one of the most finicky reel assemblies to mess with. It sounds like possibly the bail trip lever is not seated in the bail arm correctly. It's nearly impossible to diagnose something like this without seeing it though.

I understand trying to save shipping, but that doesn't work out I get $22 ea and extend a 10% discount to forum members bring the price down to $19.80. Let me know if I can help.

Pitching is a casting technique you can use with any rod as long as it loads properly with the weight you're casting. You can pitch, roll cast, back cast etc. with whatever rod you're holding to hit a particular target. An exception might be using a pool cue type rod for flipping heavy slop. Since the line in this scenario is a fixed length, the rod doesn't need to load. A "soft" tip is just that, the tip section is on the supple side and moves rather quickly into a substantial backbone. There is no way to measure "soft" any more than "fast", "heavy" or any of the other subjective terms that are used to describe rods. All the jig/plastics rods I use are F or XF action except for the heaviest of flipping rods for punching slop, them a Mod F. Look for something that feels good to you and will handle the weight you want to cast and you'll be fine.

After a slow start Sunday, a friend and I found a cove on Saratoga with some off color water and 1.5 degree warmer (49 vs 47.5) water. Caught over 80 fish between us on jerkbaits with a long pause. About 10 of them were piks and one jack perch. A lot of 1.5 pounders and then got into a bunch of 2.5 and some 3's.

Maybe we need to start a 12 step program for tackle junkies.

It's a common symptom in any model reel in need of cleaning but in the Daiwas that do suffer from this it takes a little more tweaking to correct it. In the older Revos it could have bee from worn clutch kick levers. I see less of a problem with that in the newer generations.

There's a compromise to made with spooks. A mod action will help keep them hooked up, but I get a better walking action with a fast action rod with a soft tip. I build most of my top water rods on "popping" blanks like this.

Rod rating are all subjective, so they are accurate is someone's opinion. Your mileage may vary. The sweet spot generally lies somewhere in the middle of the suggested range. You'll know right away if the rod is not loading of if it's under powered.

There's no reason not to use braid on that reel (other than any other braid vs. whatever consideration). The T wing deal is a little gimmicky, not a problem at all but not magic either.

When the handle is turned and the spool does not engage fully right away. Nothing cleaning and proper lube can't fix, just a little annoying and not on every reel by any means either.

RW you can add poetry to your resume' with that description.

Smooth means different things to different people. Are you looking an effortless cranking like air, or a fluid feel like string warm syrup, or a positive, mechanical feel with no grinding? On top of that each reel has its own personality. No two feel exactly he same all the time. For sure, left vs right has no affect.

100' is what I consider a long cast when testing rod builds. Is more distance possible? Sure, under the right circumstances. A lure of certain weight, density and profile will only fly just so far no matter how hard you trow it or what reel the line is attached to. Accuracy is where it's at 90% of the time.

Plus "Medium" is a subjective term. These rods have a good amount of backbone. St Croixs tend to fish a little heavier than other similar labeled rods.

I like a Mod action glass rod for deep cranking and a Mod-Fast for square bills and ripping traps off the weeds.

Either open the bail, thread the line and then close it, or rotate the bail until the roller is on top, thread the line under the roller then thru the guides. Either way result is the same. Question; how did you spool the line onto the reel without being able to thread the rod?

Any MH or H/F jig rod will suffice, but I lean toward a 7'6" H/F due to the weights I use and to aid with hook sets as suggested.

It's personal preference for the most part. The clickers are just that, a noise maker. I haven't experienced any problems in reels without them. I don't suggest removing them either if the reel is designed that way. Same goes for clicking drag. Yes, adjust the spool tension with mag brakes off. Cent won't matter as they won't activate that easily.