Delaware Valley Tackle

Actually, until you try it and see if you like it I wouldn't invest in a lot of tooling. Turning a rod by hand is admittedly a pia, but it's an excellent way to see and learn how epoxy behaves. This will only benefit you going forward.

By all means file a claim and get reimbursed, but there's no need to throw away the rod. A reputable rod builder can splice it for $30 or so. Done properly it will be as strong as before and the repair should be hardly noticeable.

I get all my licenses online. They call the site DECALS and can be accessed thru the NYS DEC site. As for local places, I'd check with the Sportsman's Den or maybe the Town Clerk's office.

I've got an order on the way too. We'll have to get together for a Jig Break-In Party.

Choosing blanks for applications comes only with experience. To get started post on some rod building websites for opinions and suggestions on blanks for a specific build.

x2

Ha ha I called BS on that but was curious and had to look anyway.

Most likely side pressure from a finger or line guide as you're spooling. If not that, a splice knot as mentioned. Lastly, wear or damage on the level wind worm gear may cause hesitation on one end of the travel. That's unlikely since you don't feel it catch and more than one reel is affected.

I like St Croix Rods for over the counter stuff. They have an extensive line up to cover any use you can think of and are quality rods. The Rage line is built on a very good blank and priced right: RC71MHF 7'1" MH Fast 1 12 - 20 3/8 - 1 4.6 1 $ 150 The Avid is the same blank with cork grips and I think different guides: AVC70MHF 7' MH Fast 1 12 - 20 3/8 - 1 4.7 2 $ 200

Glass/Composite doesn't tell you much about the action of the rod being suggested. It may hint at a slower action but that's not necessarily the case. I see spinner bait fishing as similar to swim-jig fishing and use similar action rods appropriate for casting the lure weight.

MH/F is about the most versatile casting rod you can find for bass fishing. Keep in mind that the terms used to describe or "rate" rods is subjective. Asking here about specific models combined with some trial and error on your part will get you where you want to go.

Welcome to the forum. Post in the intro forum and you may hear from some local guys. In the meantime, here's a starting point: http://www.dec.ny.gov/outdoor/47499.html

Neither. Lube ports are a waste of effort unless you're the consumer that will chuck a reel every few years and buy another. Slapping new grease on top of old is an exercise in futility at best. Keep your reels as clean as you can and oil the bearings and worm shaft once in a while. Spring for a deep cleaning once a year and your reel will perform at its best and last a good log time. This costs less than an oil change in your car/truck and takes 4 times as long making the service a pretty good value.

X2 The reason they're seen as a fad is because manufacturers do not use them correctly and make misleading representations such as the further casting claim. I don't understand why people pay big bucks for lightweight blanks but don't mind loading them down with heavier than needed guides. The difference may not be night and day, but why not squeeze all you can out of the setup?

The Pflueger spinning reels are a good bang for the buck. If you can push the budget another $15 the President is worth the jump from the Trion.

These videos are ok for an interim service, but If you did six reels in three hours, you didn't come any where near what a pro service involves. Granted there's shipping to consider, but on multiple reels it's not bad. After the member's discount is applied I'm charging <$20 ea.

Match the diameter if you use a minimal amount of braid leaving a slight chance you'll get into the backing. Otherwise It doesn't matter. An excessively heavy backing could result in a splice knot that creates a bulge and disrupts line lay.

The Magic Eraser is the single best way I've found. Denatured alcohol is the harshest solvent I let anywhere near a rod.

Fluoro stretches as much and sometime more than mono but lacks the elasticity. I've had instances where both people had exact same setups and one would wack them while the other struggled. I'm not convinced that bass see line or care if they do. I fish briad 90% of the time both casting and spinning, occasionally with a leader. At the end of the day it comes down to personal preference.

Comparing these two reels is not apples to apples. The Lews go for $165 and the Chronarch for $269. Both have fans and rightfully so, either will serve well. The Chronarch is the more refined of the two.

There is no harm in running an open bearing. Conversely, there is no pressing need to remove shield either. It's up to you.

That's a nice clean build. I like the customized look without being gaudy. Nice work.

Lunker City Ozmo.

All this guy's doing is regurgitating Duckett's marketing points, more than one of which is off track. For example the assertion that more guides on the tip increase sensitivity by increasing contact points. Reducing weight, especially on the tip helps retain the blank's inherent responsiveness. Long story short - a little slower action in an XXH punchin' rod helps protect the tackle train and move the fish up and out. For anything less extreme a normal fast action works fine.

X2, Spot on. I cast knots joining 50#PP & 17# fluoro thru #4 guides with no problem. I don't like that certain guides are lumped together as "micro" and poor guides setups on some factory rods leading people to hold generalized opinions and miss out on advantages of properly applied rod building concepts.