Delaware Valley Tackle

The correct setting for a drag is 1/4-1/3 of the line weight. 15lb line = 4-5# of drag pressure. The drag is intended to protect line, rod and reel from overload. Too loose, you won't get good hooksets, too tight and you could break something. The reel should hold and retrieve line. The fish should be fought with the rod.

Technique specific rod labels are marketing and purely suggestion. Concentrate on learning the available combinations of length, power and action and how each characteristic might affect a specific presentation. Only then will you be able to shop with confidence to put together a technique specific rig. There are lots of posts and articles on this site to get you pointed in the right direction. For basic bass fishing, Med Hvy/Fast baitcasting, Med/Fast spinning and Med Hvy/ Mod baitcast rods in a7' length will pretty much cover all the bases.

I'll second the XF Avids as a finesse/drop shot rod.

If you want to try braid, peel off 50 yards of the mono and leave the rest as backing. Fill the spool with 50# Power Pro Braid and add a leader as conditions dictate. Used this way, braid costs the same as mono over time. In the meantime you get the advantage of the added strength and sensitivity.

BPS reels share design and tooling with Pure Fishing product reels: Revo, Pflueger..

You can visit my website by clicking my avatar or banner or typing the address in my sig into your browser. I can also be reached by PM here on the site, email mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com or call me: 973-459-2835

Your rods should have a lure weight range rating on them. While there is no industry standard regarding these ratings, the sweet spot usually lies near the middle of the range. Some reels are better suited for throwing lighter baits and the bait profile affects flight as well.

Smooth Drag makes Carbontex replacement drag washers for many spinning reels as well as baitcasters. I can get you them for 10% off reatil or install them as part of a cleaning.

What leads you to believe you need new bearings? Are you having trouble or just experimenting? A deep cleaning and proper lubing may be something to consider first. I am a Boca Bearing Dealer and forum sponsor and can get you whatever you need.

I've worked on a number of reels that have been custom painted and they can be a problem if not taped off correctly. My suggestion is to care for reels as best you can and appreciate the "character" they gain over the years.

Bearings that new shouldn't need more than lubing as JF said. If you feel up to it, remove and flush them prior to lubing for better results. A full service would be ideal.

The difference is even less noticeable in the reels with bearing supported level-winds. Properly setup, they'll cast a mile.

Welcome to the forum. You'll get people on both sides of this question, but the fact is that both types of tackle have their place. Basically, baitcasting tackle for heavier lines (12lb+), heavier baits (1/2oz>)and heavier cover (thick weeds, wood etc). Spinning tackle excels for fishing light line and small baits. If you'll be targeting bass almost exclusively, a Med Hvy/Fast action baitcast rod and reel is probably the most versatile setup. There are tons of posts and articles about getting started with baitcasting. Good luck!

Not nit-picking or arguing semantics, but this is a replacement program, not a warranty. These plans are built into the cost of the rods. You paid for it, so use it. That said, I am also a fan of St Croix blanks and rods.

Even though the Orange Seal are marketed as a "non-contact" shield, I run them open with no problem and get better performance. IMO the improved accuracy of being able to cast with less effort is more if an advantage than distance casting. I flush the factory lube from all bearings and re-lube them. I typically recommend bearing upgrades when the stockers have worn out. You can get a better bearing for less than OEM costs. As a Boca dealer I have access to their entire line, which includes a wide variety of material and ABEC rating options and extend a 10% discount off retail to members here. FWIW, I've seen some reports of supposed comparison tests but don't know how well controlled they were. I am flirting with the idea of doing something just for fun, but whatever the results, I'd put more weight on your own experience and that of others who's opinions you value.

Yup, absolutely rinse any reel that's been near salt water, even if you didn't use it on that trip.

Guys, I'll be happy to take a look at whatever you have and get them back to you better than new.

If your sole reason for getting into building tackle, especially rods, is to save money,think twice. Beyond components, rod building has it's own version of the bait-monkey. Tools, supplies, equipment, accessories.... all add up.

Welcome to the forum. Check a few threads down, there is a similar topic already started.

The XT has an aluminum body as opposed to graphite. The sizes are listed here: http://www.pfluegerfishing.com/products/products.php?p=77

I use both, mostly out of habit. If you're new to baitcasting, and are right handed, get used to handling the rod with your strong hand and reel with your left.

Pflueger President. One of the best bang for your buck spinning reels can be found for just over $50 on sale. The XT can be had for $68

Welcome to the forum. I would strongly suggest saving a little and using your gift card toward a higher quality setup. It'll be tough to find a good rod or reel alone for $50, especially baitcasting. Baitcasting and spinning tackle both have their place in bass fishing. Baitcasting is better suited to the heavy line and baits like the swimbaits you mention. You can get a BPS Pro Qualifier reel for <$100 on sale and pair it with a decent rod.

For deep cranking the Lamiglas SR705 has a good blend of action, back bone and sensitivity.

Less is more when it comes to lube. Be careful just adding lube on top of old lube and dirt. You may do more harm than good.