Delaware Valley Tackle

Bearings are sold by ID(inside diameter)x OD (outside diameter)x W (width/thickness) If you don't have a caliper Autozone or someone like that should be able to measure them for you. At one time, I had a chart you could lay the bearing on to measure but I can't lay my hands on it. If I run across I'll post it to share.

Kids learn easier than we do. They don't have the pre-conceived notions and expectations that often hamper our learning. If he's showing interest, why not let him try. Keep it fun and he'll pick it up in no time.

For shear dpendability and longevity, the B series Curado and Ambassadeurs have stood the test of time already.

Spray grease is too hard to get where you want it (gear teeth, clutch parts..) and not get where you don't want it (drag, wor gear, bearings...) As suggested Super Lube Synthetic grease is better choice imo. Use only special drag grease on the pads. Shimano and Cal's are both good.

Welcome to the forum. I think you're referring to a spinning rod and not a push-button spin-cast. In that event, look for something marked Med or Med Hvy/Fast with a lure weight range of 1/4-3/4 give or take. This is a better worm/jig setup than crankbait, but should work ok.

Muscling a cast won't help. The weight of the bait should load the rod properly witha nice smooth back stroke and forward cast. Are you using a leader? Are your guides sufficient size to pass the knot? Have you talked with the rod builder yet? They should be your best source for insight into what your rod can do.

Make sure the line is going straight into the levelwind guide. If you're using backing, you can check the the connection. I've seen bulky knots throw things off track. If you've got an older Ambassaduer or something else with a synchronized level-wind make sure the line guide is in line with the line on the spool.

There is no reason to do anything with a rod that will flex the tip beyond 90* to the straight axis. Beyond 90* you actually lose some mechanical advantage. High sticking and swinging fish into the boat are risky maneuvers with a high modulus blank. They are also sensitive to dents, dings and scratches all of which compromise the blank sometimes resulting in a failure. You need to consider the unavoidable trade-off of brittleness for sensitivity.

In general, I'd invest in the highest end rod I could fit in my budget to fish contact baits like jigs and plastics. For crankbaits I skew the budget toward a reel. Low IPT, quality gears and good casting. FWIW, I prefer to fish spinnerbaits on something more like a plastics rod than a cranking rod due to the way I fish them which is short casts to targets and sometimes hopped off the bottom.

I'm a fan of the Pflueger spinning reels from the President on up. A lot of bang for your buck. I did just get a 2500 Ci4 Stradic 2nd hand NIB though. It will go on a finesse rod I'm building.

Brand aside, I'd look for a 6'6" MH/Mod fast or Mod for shallow cranks & top water and a 7' MH/F for jigs and spinnerbaits

I agree that you need to look at the reel. I prefer spinning tackle for finesse fishing, but a deep claening and lube to maximize your reels effeciency is not a bad idea.

The true origin of the split grip is debated among rod builders but most agree Rich Forhan brought the style to the fore front. The advantages he lists include weight savings,hand placement for two handed casting and space for hook keepers. I believe the cost of high grade cork has a lot to do with factories jumping on the band wagon.

I tie a palomar for almost everything. Fluoro is very sensitive to friction/heat so make sure to really wet the line well and cinch your knot in a smooth even pull.

Be sure to hold the loop securely so you're sure to pass the tag back through the loop in the same direction it came in. I was having the loop flip over and didn't realize it causing the tag to go through the wrong side. I'd pull on the knot and still have two pieces of line.

I won't buy an extended warranty on anything. The various replacement programs are often confused with warranties when in fact they are a type of insurance. Insurances are prfit centers. I'd much rather pay a fair price for one rod and take of it.

Generally speaking the sweet spot for casting weight is near the middle of the manufacturers reccomendation. Inthis case, 1/2oz for the 703 and 5/8 oz for the 704. Based on the OP, you're on the lighter end and light cover pointing toward the 703. If you don't have a lot of setups and want versatility as well, you're well within the effective range of the 704 also.

Micro guides increase sensitivity but not by increasing contact. Its the reduced weight, especially in the tip section that leads to improved sensitivity.

The short answer is no, not really. With that said, all manufacturers have a lemon here or there and have stars and losers somewhere in the line up. The Revo clutch dog was a high wear item for a while but that seems better lately. The Shimano AR clutches have a small bit of play in them, but that doesn't really hurt anything. Daiwas clutche engagement seems less than positive at times. You get what you pay for to some degree. Plan on spending $100 +/- for a quality baitcaster and $50 +/- for spinning reels. It's hard to go wrong with name brand equipment in this range especially if you take care of it.

As you can see both have their fans for good reason. http://www.abugarcia.com/products/reels/low-profile-baitcast-reels/revo/revo-s http://www.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/products/reels/low_profile_baitcasting/Curado_E.html

In my mind, finesse fishing is light line and small baits. My setup is ML/XF for 1/8 - 3/8oz baits. M/F for general spinning 1/2oz or <. Balance is a preference. I'd take the reel along while rod shopping and see how it feels to you.

Generally the Quantums have a release on the front of the palm plate under the level wind. Slide the release inward and rotate the palm plate at the same time.

If I pump gas on my way to the lake I'll wash my hands before handling my baits just to be on the safe side. I presume your soft baits are all in bags so I don't see the garage as a problem for storing your gear.

It's really hard to see when comparing different rods even if they're the same model. Each blank behaves slightly differently. If you wrapped the same blank both ways (regular & micro guide) and test cast each, the benefits would be more apparent.

Nothing wrong with your interpretation. The message however is off track. This is just sales talk, puff...