Delaware Valley Tackle

Screeching noise upon casting is caused by a dry bearing. If the reel is that well used, I'd recommend a deep cleaning and lube.

All true. I use the analogy of a fifle barrel. A tighter fit between barrel (guide) and bullet (line) the more effective the shot (cast). straight 65# braid will pass a #3 guide easily.

The main thing to consider with micro guides is any knots you will need to pass, such as leaders. I use 50# Power Pro and a 17# mono/flouro leader with an Albright knot and it passes through a size 4 alconite guide no problem. Micro describes a range of guide sizes usually <size6. If you can give me any more detail abaout the application(s) for the rod I might be able to offer a little more in the way of a recommendation.

IMO, If I was to go the extra $100 for the Chronarch I'd go another $50 and get the Core which is 2oz lighter than either. Shimano website has a "Compare" feature where you can see models side by side.

Good deal. When you remove the old one, heat it carefully and slide it staright off, no twisting. You can use hot melt glue or two part epoxy to install the new one. I recommend the hot melt. Epoxy is a PIA if you need to remove it for future repairs.

"You snooze, you lose" oh well

If you have the insert and the ring is not damaged, you can glue the insert back in place but the right way is to just replace the tip-top. If the manufacturer can't help, you can get a matching tip from Mudhole Tackle. Tips are sold by ring size and tube size. Tube sizes are 64ths of an inch. You wan to get the right size tube for a good fit.

Is this sale over all ready? I'm on their site and the $ is $13.99

Turnaround varies with season. I'm getting caught up now that the season is getting under way. As of right now, turn around is about 2-3 days in-house for a single reel. If you have and event or trip and need a deadline, I'll schedule something ahead of time if possible.

5:1 is a low ratio and makes a good deep cranking reel. The Lamiglas SR705 is a good match for moving baits. Not the best choice if you'll fish jigs or plastics though.

Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate the support and am thankful for the great resource Glenn and company provide here. I look forward to continuing to sponsor the forum and getting to know even more members.

I'm curious to see what price it's offered at as well.

That reel has a synchronized level wind that moves side to side when you cast. The reel may also have gotten cranked while off a rod and when remounted, the level wind was not put back where it left off. As stated, it won't really hurt anything, but if you want to fix it, unthread the line including the line guide and pull off line until level. Move the levelwind to the spot infront of where the line is leaving the spool. Rethread the line and crank back onto the spool being sure to not apply side pressure.

If you're used to spinning tackle and are right handed, I assume you reel with your left. If that's the case, hold out for a left hand reeling baitcast reel. This will save from developing the habit some of us have of swapping hands. A Citica 101 is a good starter reel mounted on a Med Hvy / Fast rod of the best quality you can afford. Do a search to find a lot of posts on how to set up and adjust your reel and practice making short easy casts with a heavier weight (5/8 oz>)focusing on accuracy. Distance will come with practice.

A deep cleaning and proper lube will definetely benefit your reel. They should be done at least annually. Have you changed rods by any chance? Check to be sure you didn't miss a guide or anything. Make sure each guide ring is intact and clean. If the line is not flowing smoothly it can back up into the spool.

With all due respect, I suggest that you take a look at your rod handling practices. It's very unlikely that you have had three faulty rods. Today's high modulus graphite rods are light and sensitive, but the trade off is a level of brittleness. Avoid actions that flex the rod tip beyond 90* and be very conscious of avoiding nicks, scratches and dents.

What you see there is gease and water mixed. In general, reels do come way over lubed from the factory and can benefit from a deep claening and proper lube. Fish them hard for a bit to be sure there are no warranty issues and then service them. Also as posted above, the level wind should be lightly oiled and not greased due to the exposed nature. Service for BassResource.com members is $16.20/reel ($18-10%). Let me know if I can help.

I've never done it but have heard of people spraying WD-40/Reel Magic on baits as an attractant. I've never heard any such claims in regard to KVD which is the only way to go for line conditioner.

I had a similar scenario last weekend. Sat was sunny and 65* we pounded them from the banks. Decided to take the small boat out Sun and really put it to them. Well Sun turnout to be overcast with falling temps. I believe that shallow water was warmed by sun on Sat and brought the bait and bass up shallow. Check the Noth shore for warmer water when he sun is out. Slightly stained water is sometimes a degree or two warmer also.

I fish a lot of hike in ponds and wade the river and creeks. I approach them pretty much the same way I would from a boat as far as baits or techniques. Not all the fish spawn at the same time,but if you want to search for beds you can't see, try slowly dragging a lizard or tube with long pauses and watch the line. I fish drop shot rigs from the banks by lengthening the leader. Dragging a t-rig is a way to find structure and cover without a sonar. Where sheer casting distance is needed, spinning tackle is the way to go. Inlets, outlets, dams, dykes and over flows are clues to possible good spots.

A Mod or Mod F rod will make a big difference here as will sharp hooks. I find fish tend to hook themselves to a large degree and I set the hook on a crankbait bite with a sweep.

This is much like motorcycling. "I looked and just didn't see them" is all too common.

I'd love to help you out with this, but ot be honest, the shipping on a 7'> rod exceeds $25 each way and may be prohibitive. Labor and materials $35.

The cork can be pinched off in chunks with a pair of pliers. The edge of an old credit card makes a good scraper that will not damage the blank. Take note of the common thread in each post: conservative use of heat and do not cut or sand into the fibers.Installing the new handle from the rear can be tricky due to the blank taper. Ream very slowly and use a wrap or two of drywall tape as arbors as needed to make a secure fit. The last thing you want is a loose, mushy grip.

I've seen enough mixed reviews on the Lews reels to be hesitant, especially with so many tried and true options at the same or lower price.