Delaware Valley Tackle

I can't disagree with anything JF has to say here. I think the fly in the ointment is the $100 budget limit. The best advice is to save up that extra $20-$50 and look for deals as in the example posted. If that just is not an option, you can probably get $75 worth of use out of a PQ if you treat it right, but you may go through two in the time a $120 reel would last.

Yup, that's all that matters. This is one of our way over-thought topics.

Because not eryone wants that feeling and one persons grip may be different from the next. Again, there is no right or wrong here.

This is one of those topics that has no right or wrong, but rather is based on personal preference. Weight can be added to the butt of a rod to counter a tip-heavy feel. If a rod is uncomfortable or tiring to use when held the way you will fish it, by all means adjust accordingly. No one else can tell you how to balance your setup. Personally, I avoid adding weight anywhere on a rod for my own use unless absolutely necessary, and then it is minimal. How a rod balances is not necessarily a sign of quality or lack there of, because it is a preference and personal preference cannot be met in a production rod. On a custom build this is one of the main topics discussed at length. There are aftermarket kits available or you can use a rubber chair leg cap with washers or coins inserted and fit over the handle. This is best done with the reel mounted and held in the expected fishing position.

These are workhorse reels and too often overlooked, as I did myself.

Shimano Citica, ABU Revo S, BPS PQ, Pflueger Trion are all $100 =/- and all have a following. The Daiwa Exceler is $80 but you hear less about them.

I have one of these for the numerous local electric only lakes and love it.

The line weight ratings are subjective like all other rod ratings. If your rod broke in three spots, I doubt line choice had much if anything to do with it. Lure weight weightings are just as subjective, but more useful in choosing a rod for bass fishing. Choose a line suitable to cover, bait and other conditions and fish it. If that's 50lb braid, so be it. Truth be told, 90% of rod failures are due to either loading the rod beyond 90*, damaged fibers from lead weights, boat cleats etc. or a combination of both.

The results you can expect from a bearing upgrade vary depending on the condition of the bearings and the reel in general. I would add them as part of a deep cleaning and lube of the whole reel. I don't typically push bearing upgrades too hard unless they need replacing anyway. We're a Boca Bearing dealer and will sell to BassResource.com members for 10% off retail. Measure the bearings with a caliper prior to ordering. IDxODxWidth(thickness). Citica is 3x10x4 mm.

Excellent suggestion. St Croix is one place to check.

Yup 7' Med/Fast is definitely the most versatile spinning set up. Depending on what the baitcast arsenal looks like, I might go ML/F-XF. Especially if he spinning rig will be for finesse baits in relatively open water.

The spool bearings are a critical component in reel performance and servicing them alone is not a bad idea between cleanings, but there is much more to a pro service. A reel should still be deep cleaned at least annually. This should include stripping to the frame, degreasing, removing all dirt and debris, inspection of all parts for wear and then proper lubing and reassembly with replacement of parts if needed.

That's weird, I'm pretty sure that's exactly what I heard my wife saying last night when she came into the shop... And she thinks I don't pay attention.

I do something very similar, only I'm using a 7'6" blank for the deep cranker. Even though it's not graphite, I find it has a nice blend of action, sensitivity and backbone.

Reels in general are over-lubed from the factory and once broken in, would benefit graetly from deep cleaning and proper lube, including bearings. Our service is pretty affordable at $16.20 for forum members. If you DIY, be sure to have a schematic handy. Bearings should be flushed by soaking in a solvent, naptha (lighter fluid) or acetone are commonly used. Bearings then need to dry completely and be lubed with a single drop of light oil.

I agree, It's almost hard to go wrong with any of the name brands at your price point. IMO the biggest bang for buck at this level is the Pfleuger President at <$70 on sale.

If you have aprehension about tearing down the reel, our service costs $16.20 for members ($18-10%). If you decide to DIY, make sure to have a schematic in front of you and document your progress with photos.

The cost of a reel service for forum members is $16.20 ($18-10%). Turn around varies with season but nothing sits around and jobs witha deadline can be scheduled ahead of time. Thanks for the votes of confidence! Mike

Is this nearby? Morrison's Rod & Reel Rod Repair, Warranty Center for Shimano, Daiwa and Zebco, Authorized Repairs For Most Name Brand Reels. curly@onlyinternet.net 5923 S - 600 W Huntington , IN , 46750 Phone: 219-468-9300 Fax: 219-358-1499

Micro guides provide the same benefits (weight savings, casting accuracy and possibly distance) on a spinning rod as they do on a baitcast rod. Leader knots always need to be considered, but I find that a well tied Albright between 50lb braid and 17lb mono pass through a size 4 guide with no ill effects and this heavier than most would put on a spinning rig.

I'm not tall either and prefer shorter ords for tip-down presentations like jerk baits and walk-the-dog top-waters. Other than that I regularly fish rods over 7'. If you find it personally uncomfortable to fish longer rods, by all means experiment and find what works for you.

All good advice. A schematic will show you all the parts, but not necessarily the order of assembly. What is it that made you want to remove the side plate?

Looks like it should work. As long as you're comfortable tackling the job and you have the parts, you can try it and put it back if you don't like it.

Steezy's point about checking the work of who you deal with is excellent advice. A builder worth there salt would be able to do that repair though.

That's right. Production rods are built for the masses, many of whom are not nearly as concerned with optimum performance as many of us here. The same holds true for guide size and placement, grip design and each of the other components. These limitations in a production rod are the advantages of a custom.