Delaware Valley Tackle

I'll be happy to check this out for you. PM, email, call or visit our website. .RM. & jfrancho have shops also as well as few others.

Bee, This may help, good luck.... http://www.tackletour.net/TTForums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=41811

This is a good starting point. If you have continuing or worsening problems let us know.

x2

X2 x2 on the Pflueger. The Sedona is good also.

That's all you need. The finish should come in a sample size syringe full. More than enough for one guide. Mix accurately and mix thoroughly. Cover the thread and a little past the egde onto the blank.

Without more detail or seeing the reel, I can't add much to RM's comments. I'll be glad to check it for you if you'd like to send it in.

With the cork deteriorating and having been taped over, I'd have the whole thing replaced. As RM suggested, I'd look for a local rod builder to do the repair which should be fairly inexpensive. If you feel like you want to take this on, there are a couple ways it can be done. PM me if you want and I'll try to help.

The ratio on your reels is pretty close to one another, but given the options I'd put the Citica on the Mod action rod and throw the crank baits and maybe spinnerbaits on that. The other setup would probably be ok for some light jigs or t-rigs in light cover and topwater. Personally, I stick with spinning tackle for baits <1/2 oz for the most part. I suggest reading some threads and articles on tackle choices to assist in putting together future combos. Good luck.

I agree with RW on three basics rigs being all you need. Once you move beyond there: 6' Med/Mod-Fast 6.1:1 casting for spinnerbaits 7' Med/Fast spinning 2500 size, tubes, small jigs, weightless plastics in-line spinners all <1/2 oz 7' Med-light/x fast 2500 spinning for finesse baits 1/16 - 3/8 7'6" Med-Hvy/Mod 5.1:1 casting for deep cranks 7' Med-Hvy/Fast 6.1:1 casting for t-rigs, Carolina rig, jigs 7'6" Heavy/Fast 7.1:1 casting for frogs, punching, flipping heavy cover 6'6" Med-Hvy/Mod-Fast or fast (soft tip) 6.1:1 casting for top water

Sorry man I have to disagree with your system, and I think Mike (DVT) might agree with me 27 years of doing reel service... The manufacturers drag rating on ANY reel is a result of the reel mounted on a rod lined and then setup onto a scale. It is NOT hanging it is a lifting/pulling drag. All readings are done in an actual fish fighting setup... I agree you and jfrancho. Testing should be done in as close to real life conditions as possible and more is not necessarily better (as in 12lbs drag is better than 10 etc)

The best way is Mr Clean Magic Eraser. That will clean them up nicely.

As to the OP, casting distance is affected by rod, reel, line and bait. A long rod, supple line, heavy & aerodynamic bait with reel with good bearings and a heavy spool will give you the longest casts. A light spool starts easier for tossing light baits but the heavier spool will carry more inertia.

Thanks RM. I'll be happy to take a look and make a recommendation. If it's not worth fixing...N/C Mike

If the reel casts differently fishing than it did in the yard, I would suggest adjusting the spool tension knob for the lure you want to cast and check the guides to be sure you don't have a tangle or maybe have threaded through a guide brace by accident (it happens).

You're right. That's what is called burl cork.

Batson makes some very good blanks. If you can tell me something about the intended use of the rod I may be able to suggest some alternatives. Dark colored cork would be either burnt cork or burl cork. Will you be doing this build yourself? PM me with questions if you'd like.

I'm working on a comprehensive piece about rod handling and breakage, but I can give you a couple highlights. High modulus graphite can be brittle. A whack on a boat cleat or even a lead weight smacking it can compromise the integrity of a blank. High sticking or any other maneuver that causes the blank to bend beyond 90* puts the blank in jeopardy and decreases leverage on the fish. Swinging fish into the boat and pointing a rod strait in the air while lipping a fish is another example. Another common mistake I see is grabbing a point at the tip and bending to check the action. Ideally, this is done with a spooled reel and line. In a store situation light pressure applied by the palm of your hand or even the floor or ceiling as long as you don't jam the rod tip straight into an obstacle. Obviously a heavier power rod will withstand more pressure but the key is still to keep the bend within 90*. The drag will help cushion and protect the whole rig to some degree but really is meant to help prevent line breaks.

I crush the barb most of the time to aid in release of the fish. If they have slack they can throw a hook barbed or not.

A lot of people place two fingers ahead of the trigger during retrieve. I like to use that grip to put my index finger on the blank ahead of the reel. By nature, a production rod can't be all things to all people. It boils down to personal preference. I'm sure that if the manufacturers get the impression that the majority want something different they'll react.

Welcome... See you on the boards!

The current model is a 6.2:1 and MSRP is $56.99 but can be found on sale for $45 +/-. This is a 6 bearing reel. I've worked on a few and would say they're not a bad reel, especially at the price point. NIB for $15 is not a bad deal. http://www.pinnaclefishing.com/shop/p-31-platinum-plus.aspx

Welcome, wis bang...! I fish the Delaware also, along with waters in and around the Water Gap National Park.

I have a club tx that day mut I might just do the meeting depending on the reports from the Hudson. I'm following the thread and will post when I make up my mind (the night before,lol)

A Med Hvy/ Fast action rod is the most versatile for bass fishing applications. Look for the same thing in a 2 pc. rod that you would in a 1 pc. Get the highest quality rod your budget can accommodate. A 2 pc. will fish just fine.