curls00

LOL, Walmarts around here have sweet d**k all for fishing stuff. They have YUM tubes for $7.99/pack. Mister Twister tubejig heads for $5/pack, etc. They never carried Chunks and if they did they'd probably be priced at $9/pack.

I'm on a mad hunt for a couple dozen packs of the Crawdad color of 3.5" YUM Chunks. I cannot find them anywhere, and every place I look seems to have less and less stock of all colors of YUM Chunk. I know that YUM recently released the "F2" formulation for many/all of their baits, but I've yet to see the YUM Chunk anywhere in the F2 scent. I might have an anxiety attack if I can't find these (LPT or F2 I don't care which!). Does anyone know if they're done with this product, meaning I need to search for a replacement? (On that note, has anyone seen the Netbait Paca Chunk in "Alabama Craw" color? Does it look similar to Crawdad in the YUM Chunk?). Thanks.

I used the 7'3" H/XF for pitchin' into the same situations you listed. It was good, but a tad heavy (literally, not power-wise). This year I went with a much more balanced Kistler Helium II LTX 7'6" (Heavy action, soft tip though). The Vendetta in H/F or MH/F... I'd probably recommend the MH/F as it'll still have plenty of backbone to pull fish out of nasty cover (mats), but the other 99% of the time it'll be better for your intended purposes (weedlines, grass, brush).

Here's a hint to not break rods in car doors: Only have ONE door open (passenger front). Put rods in tip-first (carefully) towards the drivers' side rear window glass. Once in, place butts of rods at the floor where the passengers' left foot would go. Close door.

Of the three options you listed, I'd put the Mojo at the bottom. The Verdict and Veritas are both excellent rods -- the Verdict giving you more transportability options with its collapsable handle (coming from a car guy, this is a great feature!), but the Veritas uses "Nano-technology" which is also used by many other manufacturers in an effort to strengthen the rods against nicks and scrapes that weaken rods with 'normal' construction. To me it sounds like the Veritas might be the perfect rod for you -- it's also extremely sensitive so it sets up well as a jig rod.

0119 is right. Simple Green, even diluted, can hurt aluminum and make it dull and pitted. I know from first-hand experience with my polished aluminum cold air intake in my car -- it's now a nice shade of dull grey with what looks like water spots (but its actually etched due to the diluted Simple Green). If you're going to use it, dilute it a lot -- 4:1 or more. Also, don't let it sit on metal parts -- just scrub with an old toothbrush and rinse immediately.

I love to pitch 1/2 and 3/4oz jigs into moderate cover (deep weedlines, around pads, thicker scummy weeds, and everything in between). I want a new rod as my 7'3" Vendetta is getting frog duty this year. I can't go any longer than 7'6" if telescopic or 7'4" if fixed-length. I have my eye on the Verdict 7'6" MH-Fast. But, the 7'3" would also be on my radar. Should I bump up to the 7'6" length? I'm tall at 6'2", so the length shouldn't be an issue... but what advantages do I get with the extra 3" vs the disadvantages? Opinions welcomed!

Veritas spinning rods are the same way. Interesting, and I suppose it was intended.

To me, a balanced rod is one that requires very little torque or effort to raise or lower the rod tip. IE: The balance point is closer to the reel than to the first guide. Tackletour uses the balance point in inches from the middle of the reel seat, without a reel, as a point of reference. If a rod is tip-heavy, you'll have a balance point that is far (12"+?) from the middle of the reel seat. If you have a balanced, or "butt heavier" rod if you will, the balance point will be closer... say within 8" of the centre of the reel seat. What does this mean? Less fatigue in the wrist and forearm after a day of fishing! More sensitivity, as the rod requires less muscle force to hold "steady" thus freeing up receptors in your hand and fingers to pick up on subtle bites or changes in bottom composition. Balance has nothing to do with side-to-side balancing. I guess if you wanted to, you could attach your reel to the rod, let the reel hang below the blank, and then see how far forward of the reel you need to move your finger in order for the combo to "teeter" on your finger. That's a representative balance point of that COMBO. For reference, most of my combos balance out to within 1" of the reel seat winding checks. Or, a bit back of the hook keeper on most newer rods. To me, they feel balanced!

I would also recommend the Citica 201E. I own the same reel and although it's a 6.3:1 ratio (all Citica's are), they're great all-purpose bass fishing reels and have a ton of performance for the price. I also own two Quantum PT-series baitcasters and they have performed very well. When buying new, though, the Citica is a better value, IMO.

I ended up picking up the 6'6" MH/F spinning rod today ($69.99+13% tax!). However, I will likely be returning it and getting a 2010 Kistler Magnesium 6'9" MH/F "Finesse Special" spinning rod, used, for only a few bucks more. Good choice?

If I got bass regularly over 5lbs, I'd be very successful in tournaments around here. The 7' rod seems to suit my style more than the shorter 6'6" rod, but again the MH vs M is my sticking point. I need opinions on both powers... pros and cons for each... for a tournament fisherman looking to not lose a single fish all year in tournaments.

I'm looking to convert most of my rods to Abu's after great experiences with the Vendetta's. I want to find the perfect spinning rod to use for tubes and wacky rigs. I'm not sure if a M or a MH is appropriate, and considering the Veritas are slightly more powerful than their ratings (from what I've heard), I'm thinking the Medium action rods are best for this. Model Lgth Line Power/Action Lure VRS66-5 6' 6" 6 to 12 M XF 1/8 to 1/2 VRS66-6 6' 6" 8 to 14 MH F 1/4 to 3/4 VRS70-5 7' 6 to 12 M F 3/16 to 5/8 Of these three, which is recommended? I'm tall, so longer rods are not an issue for me (my baitcasters start at 7' and go up from there). For line, I prefer 30# braid and often use a fluoro leader for wacky rigs or tubes. All opinions and insight appreciated!

SeanW: Sorry to hijack the thread, but I'm looking at that exact Verdict (7'6" MH/F) for my pitchin/flippin, usually 3/4oz jigs. How's the rod performing? Is it actually lighter than the already very-light Veritas line of rods? Opinions very much appreciated!

Wow, great discussion, thanks guys! I see the logic behind the tip 'speed' being one step slower (fast vs. XF) for braid. However, if the action (heavy, med-heavy, etc...) is speaking to the backbone strength, then how is this relevant to being more versatile? IE: Wouldn't a heavy action mean it's easier and quicker to horse the fish into the boat vs. a MH or a M action rod? Since I fish 75% of the time in tournaments, and only 25% of the time for pure relaxation, my goal is to get the fish into the boat ASAP and get back to fishing. Would a MH be more sensitive vs. a H blank, if their tips were both rated the same? Would a Fast tip be more sensitive than an XF tip? Keep this discussion going, it's great to learn more and get more educated opinions! Cheers, Eric

I'm set on getting a new Abu Verdict rod (primarily for the collapsable handle as I can't fit a 7'6" rod in my car w/o it). I will be using this rod as my primary jig rod. I usually throw 3/4oz jigs in anything from sparse cover to heavy slop, timber, or around docks. I will use this rod about 60% of the time while on the water, so I have it make it count! I often rip the jig free of weeds and grass and this is where I think a stronger backbone and faster tip prevails, but I could be wrong. Last year I used a 7'3" Abu Garcia Vendetta, Heavy, X-Fast. It was nice. Real nice! Should I stick with the Verdict 76-7 (H/XF) or go with the Verdict 76-6 (MH/F)? I use 70# Daiwa Samurai braid, so there's zero stretch in that line... Lastly, has anyone used either of these 7'6" Verdict rods? Opinions and experiences are greatly welcomed!!

IMO they have more buoyancy than any other trailer... so yes, they'll stand up real well. Just gotta make sure that the thick fatty claws don't double back over your hook point, or you'll never hook a fish.

Very interesting - I think the same thing. My two biggest largemouth bass this year have been off of docks that were heavily flipped-to just minutes before I got there (during tournaments). What I did is came in behind these other guys who just fished the outer edges of the dock, and I pitched way back against the back edges, just ticking the dock post as it hits the water. Both times, the fish inhaled the jig (in these cases) immediately after it hit the water. The second (and my PB LMB in my avatar), was a 3/4oz jig that just grazed this old fiberglass hunting boat that was docked. Within 1 second of the jig making the noise and hitting the water, the fish hit it. In both cases I am certain that I would NOT have had a strike had I not made noise. The fish were very pressured and IMO getting to spots where they are likely to be sitting, AND making noise/attracting the fish's attention, was key to success.

Jig-n-pig. Hop it in small hops on bottom -- if it doesn't get smacked on the way down! I really like Booyah Boo-jigs with a YUM chunk trailer. See my avater for a 5 lb'er that fell for this combo last weekend.

IMO going with a 6'6" M or MH rod would be ideal in your situation, as you seem to be targetting cover, and in tight, you will want a slightly shorter rod to allow precision casting, skipping, etc. I absolutely recommend the Shimano Compre 6'6" MH Fast spinning rod -- it's great for skipping tubes, wacky senkos, and has enough backbone to pull fish from moderate cover. I think ML or even some M action rods will be too light to get fish from the overhanging trees (which surely have grass or limbs in the water under them).

Go with 50# braid or higher (Samurai Braid is my preferred braid!). Use the Palomar knot. It's dead simple and extremely effetive with braid. Don't bother with a leader unless you know your uni-uni or Alberto knot well, and you're fishing gin-clear water. Even then... I was fishing 30+ foot visibility water for smallmouth bass a few weeks ago and had a fluoro leader for wacky rigs and tubes. I was OUTFISHED by my partner who had straight 50# braid in that rediculously clear of water. Leaders = useless, IMO. (On the other hand, sight-fishing in 30+ feet of water = incredibly fun!! The only thing better was topwater poppers in the same water and seeing a bronze missile come up from the bottom and get airborne on it!).

So on a 5" senko-style bait -- EWG or offset straight-shank? What about on a 7" senko-style bait? And for creature baits? Since I rarely (if ever) throw typical thin-bodied worms like a power worm... I'm trying to figure out if I'll ever get use out of an offset straight-shank hook.

Exactly - I use them often. The only gripe I have is that they don't stay on for more than a few casts (or especially in weeds). This might be a problem if you use braid like I do. On mono/fluoro it should be fine though.

I guess I should update those that chimed in about this body of water and lure: We placed FIRST out of 20 teams! But although I threw a black buzzbait a considerable amount in the cloudy morning, I only got one strike -- from a pike. The vast majority (all but two) of the bass we caught throughout the day were on jigs pitched into the thickest clumps of rice we could find. One nice chunk was pulled off of a rocky shoreline where he was literally 6" from the bank, next to a fallen birch log (no branches, just a log). So although the buzzbait didn't produce this time, we still won, and I will still try the buzzbait again sometime soon. Thanks all!

If you use the Compare feature on the Shimano website, there are only a few differences: - paddles are a bit better on the Curado - 1 extra bearing + handle bearings - Magnumlite spool on the Curado, drilled/ported only on the Citica - Curado available in 5 and 7:1. Citica only in 6.x:1 For what its worth, I just bought the Citica (yesterday) as I couldn't justify the extra $60 on the Curado for such a minimal upgrade.