.ghoti.

Glenn suggested reading the articles on this site. He did not suggest copying them to your site. If you do that, I will be all over your butt.

what little I could find indicated that the magnetic and mechanical brakes are both adjusted with the same knob. strange design, if that's the case. by the way, FFO has 4 of these for $56@

flechero, if you can't find it, let me know. I'l scan it, and send it to you. might give you a chuckle or two while on the throne.

If I hadn't read the article, I'd have though it was some kind of elaborate joke. But, I've never noticed a sense of humor out of those Bassin folks before. The idea was to turn a plastics rod into a crankbait rod. The quoted some touring pro's on this, and showed a picture of one rod with suspend strips wrapped around the rod between the tip and first guide, and epoxied in place. Flechero, I know you've built a few sticks. Would you make a crankbait rod like this?

anybody else read that article about taping or glueing weights to the tip of your rod to slow it down? And, did anybody else think "what a great way to screw up a perfectly good rod"?

My wife works for Walmart. Has for a long time. I can just hear her response when I call her up and say "hey, honey, going on a fishin' trip with the boys, bring me home about a dozen packs of rubbers."

Well said, flechero. Timely too. Any time you get this large a group of people together airing opinions, you're bound to have a few disagreements. It is inevitable. Some times it's part of the fun. And, occasionally it gets out of line. That's probably inevitable aslo. I know I've had my nose out of joint a few times. But never anywhere near bad enough to consider leaving. And I'm sure I've annoyed somebody, some time. It's been my goal lately to refrain from commenting on something that annoys me. Nobody wins a whizzing contest. When it's all over, you're both wet. And you both stink.

Thanks so much for rubbing it in. :'( :'( :'(

If you're going to tear them all the way down, and you may want to if it's been a while, try this. Tear off about three sheets of paper towel,and tape it down to your bench or table. Nothing worse than dumping all those tiny parts on the floor, so use the tape. As you remove parts from the reel, clean them and lay them out in order on the towels. Put all the bearings in a small container with enough lighter fluid to cover, and let them soak while you're cleaning other parts. About half way through, swish them around, dump off the dirty fluid and put in some fresh lighter fluid. And, don't smoke around this stuff. A fine cigar goes with many things. An open container of lighter fluid is not one of them. After the bearings have soaked, blow them out, and let them dry on a clean towel. I always check mine by slipping them on an old tapered punch. I put the big end of the punch against my ear, and rotate the bearing, listening for any rough sounds. If all sounds good the bearings each get a drop of oil. All the sliding parts of the spool engage/disengage mechanism get a very light coat of grease. I use a small soft brush for this. The gears all get grease. Eveything else gets oil. And not too much. It doesn't take as much as you think. The levelwind gets a light coat of oil also. I used to use grease on the level wind gear and pawl, and reel mechanic set me straight on that. I started using Reel Butter oil and grease last year, and I will continue to use this.The oil is very thin and slippery, and the grease stays where you put it. Once everything is clean and lubed, you can reverse the order of parts on the towel to start putting things back together. I've probably forgotten something here, so if you have any problems, ask again, or PM me. I'll help if I can. Cheers, GK

Try a bobber stopper and a small bead. Put these on the line before the weight, then slide them down to meet the hook.

Good one, buddy. My most productive bait has been a red shad Senko. Number three one my list is a red shad power worm. But, I do not believe that these colors provoke a feeding reaction because they look like blood. That is simply BS. A bass brain does not have the horsepower ( or would that be fishpower) to perform this type of reasoning. I think these colors works in part because their mottled appearance tends to blur the outline a bit, making these baits a little harder for the fish to ignore as unnatural. If you want your line to "disappear" in the water, then fish green line in green water, blue line in blue water, clear line in clear water, and if you find some red water, then try that red line.

A dog is truly a man's best friend. If you don't believe it, try this experiment. Put your dog and your wife in the trunk of your car for one hour. When you open the trunk, which one is really happy to see you?

A teacher decided that a visual demonstration would add emphasis to his lecture. Four worms were placed into four separate jars. The first worm was put into a container of alcohol. The second worm was put into a container of cigarette smoke. The third worm was put into a container of chocolate syrup. The fourth worm was put into a container of good clean soil. At the conclusion of the lecture, the teacher reported the following results: The first worm in alcohol - Dead. The second worm in cigarette smoke - Dead Third worm in chocolate syrup - Dead Fourth worm in good clean soil - Alive. So, the teacher asked the class, 'What can you learn from this demonstration?' Maxine was sitting in the back and quickly raised her hand and said, 'As long as you drink, smoke and eat chocolate, you won't have worms!' End of lecture.

Exactly. Except I don't have to change it 15 times a year. We have winter here. Can't fish all year. If I coupld, I'd probably change it that often. Ditto on the half spool line swap. I put on about 60 yards of new line, on top of the cheapest line I can find for backing.

Precisely! ;D ;D ;D I have an experiment designed to answer this question once and for all.This is for some of you who have a bass in your aquarium. What we want to determine is; do red hooks provoke more strikes, and, does red line disappear in the water. Simple enough. Step 1; teach your bass to speak english. This will be much harder if you have to teach it to press two para espanol. Step2; ask it these questions. Step3; post the fish's replies here for all to read. That should put an end to this silly "red" debate.

BLT, baby. Local smoked bacon, garden fresh tomato, mayo, lettuce, sourdough bread. It don't get any better than that.

It is readily available, if sticker shock doesn't blow you out of the water. google Shimano Antares and Daiwa Alphas. You'll find the sources.

Hey Al, you're going to have one guide sticking out to the side. It makes sense to me to have that guide on the same side as the crank on your reel. That way, you won't lay it down on the guide. Cheers, GK

Some great advice from flechero. Never just throw it out there. Always have a target. Fix your gaze upon your target, and don't look away until your bait hits the water. Then just keep doing it. In no time at all you'll be hitting your spot now and then. And it will get better from there. You're training your muscle memory. Soon you'll be hitting your target most of the time. And, for most of us, that's as good as it gets. If you're lucky enough to be on the water a couple of hundred days a year, you'll be hitting your target almost every time. A tourist stops an old gent in New York, and asks him how to get to Carnegie Hall. The old gent says " practice, man, practice".

I know one thing for sure about fishing. #1. the fish are in the water. That's all folks.

YOU NEED HELP. You need more stuff. Tell your sweetie I said so. ;D ;D ;D Then, duck.

All I know is, from now on I'm taking a jar of Vaseline along every time I fill up. I hear it hurts less if you grease it up first.

OK, shooter. Looks like nobody else wants to jump in, so I'll give a shot. The Quantum Energy reels do not have a magnetic control on the cranking side. That's the adjustment knob for a standard friction brake. It applies force to the end of the spool shaft to create friction against the shims. This is the first adjustment you need to make. On the other side of the reel is the centrifugal braking system. It has a knob like a magnetic system, but instead of moving magnets, it move the friction race in and out. The race is conical, and moves. The weights are fixed in a spiral configuration. The further the race is moved towards the spool, the more weights are in contact with the race. Of the reels that have tandem cast controls, I'm familiar with one. I have a Johhny Morris Signature series reel, that appears to be a re-branded Pfleuger Supreme. It has both magnetic and centrifugal braking systems, as well as the friction brake. I have to say this dual system works very nicely, once I got it dialed in. In fact, last year I had my wife using it. It was her first experience with a baitcaster, and she had one minor backlash. So, it works very well. The magnetic brakes are adjusted by the knob on the non-crank side; the friction brake control is on the crank side; and the centrifugal brakes are adjusted by removing the side plate. The blocks clicked in towards the center of the spool to turn them off. The idea that the centrifugal brakes control the cast at the beginning and the magnetics take over at the end is just a bit not right. The centrifugal brakes produce more force as the spool speed increases, so they do indeed control the beginning of the cast. As the spool slows they have less and less effect. The magnetics are always engaged. The only way they could be taken out the picture at the beginning of the cast is if they were moved away from the spool, then moved back towards the spool at the end of the cast. If you have any doubts about what type your reels have, either consult the reference material, ot take the side plate off and look. You can turn off a centifugal system. You can't completely turn off a magnetic system. Close, but not totally off. The magnets are always there, exerting some force. As far as some of the other reels you mentioned, I'll let somebody who actually has one, and has taken it apart, comment. Cheers, GK

Hey flechero, I agree with you, I just didn't take the time to elaborate. About the warranty issue, the original posted asked the question. And received the appropriate response. The response to the second question was indeed puzzling. I don't know what he has against EVA foam for grips. I happen to like it. I agree it was in poor taste to give such a bad rap to other people's grip materials. If he had offered to send a chunk of foam to modify the grip, he would have made a much better impression. Frankly, I'm surprised he didn't. When I bought a rod from Airrus last year, Ken Whiting called me. Surprised the snot out of me. He wanted to make sure that I got the right rod. After talking for a while I changed my order to different power and action rod. And he was right. I got the rod I wanted. Ken was a very nice guy to talk to. That's what surprised me about the "attitude". I don't get it. It almost sounds like two different people. Makes me wonder if possibly he has some snotty little arse-hole answering his mail for him.

Some things never go out of style. There's a reason for that.