NebraskaBasser

I love spinnerbaits. I use a snap too, so I prefer the "twist-type", but many now days are the R-bend type. I've HEARD that they use the R-bend type because it allows the arm/blades more vibration. But to avoid the inevitable "snap-sliding-up-the-arm", I use a very skinny piece of heat-shrink tubing. (Read about doing that as a "tip" some place.)

Ha, funny you should ask! My son-in-law has only used spinning gear, but had expressed a desire to try a baitcasting reel. I didn't have one of those rubber "practice plugs" handy, so I tied on a spinnerbait and we walked across the street to the local golf course's pond. Now this pond is SMALL! I'm guessing no larger in size that one of our lots... maybe 1/2 acre? It's part of a "catch-system" for the course, and drains rain water from the course AND the development's storm sewers. So anyway, we're there at the pond and I'm showing him how to cast with short casts. Then I made a pretty good cast - almost across the pond - and as soon as the spinnerbait hit the water, there was a swirl about 6' away... and then fish on! It wound up being a 13-14" largemouth bass!!!! I couldn't believe it! I've lived near that pond for ten years and NEVER knew that there would be fish in it, let alone BASS! How did it get there? Don't know... "naturally" or perhaps some "bucket biologist"? Are there more? Who knows? But, that is the smallest body of water that I've ever seen, that also had fish!! So I guess if "IT" is wet... throw a line in 'cause you NEVER KNOW what surprise you might get! Bob

Not sure you'll find a tube with an inflatable seat for your price range, at least not a NEW one. My suggestion would be to watch Craig's List and eBay. Good luck!

Thanks for the suggestion... already have some! I bought them over the winter though... I can hardly wait to try them !!

Well, you might want to share a little information... that might help. Most tubes are "size-rated". Are you a "normal" guy, or do you have to buy your clothes at the Big & Tall store? For your $120-$180 range, is that just for the TUBE, or the TUBE and all the accessories (fins, waders, etc.) as well? Do you want a foam seat or inflatable? If just the TUBE, and you weigh less than 300lbs., then I'd recommend the Creek Company ODC420 (foam seat). You can get them NEW off eBay in your price range. If you want a "light-weight" version, then I'd recommend the ODC420 "Light". You can get the "light" version with pump & fins for less than $180 (on eBay). It will cost you more, but a really nice tube is the Fat Cat, made by Outcast. (I have both the ODC420 and the <Super> Fat Cat) Once you get your tube, you'll want to accessorize it. For THOSE considerations, may I suggest the forum (link below) as a great source for everything from rod-holders to trolling motor mounts <really!>!! http://www.bigfishtackle.com/forum/Float_Tube_Fishing_C66/Float_Tubing_General_F81/ If you have any more questions, don't hesitate to contact me directly... Bob

I usually put the purchase-date on my line. When it gets "old", and I no longer want to use it as "fresh" line on my reels, those spools go into a separate bag/box. I use THAT "OLD" LINE to practice knot-tying and to use as backing on reels. (I usually use this "old" mono as backing vs. just tossing it in the trash.) Bob

I've heard that a "heavy" fluorocarbon leader works great for that purpose... but I don't know HOW HEAVY you'd have to go. At least the fluorocarbon would be less visible than a wire leader... Bob

Exactly... and I HAVE had that happen before - where the line/knot gets centered in the split-ring opening. Can't say that I've had the line/know break THERE, but it was always a little unnerving to me... and is why I remove all of the split-rings on my hard/crankbaits and use (just) a snap. As noted in the post above, using a welded-ring hook would be the best, but then that doesn't address "our" modified rigs. Maybe it's not a big deal? Just rotate the #1 split ring to where the "opening" is towards the hook, and tie onto that ring where it's "solid"...?? Just asking if the split-ring "opening"/line-tie was a concern to anybody else... Or... maybe it's just me being paranoid...

If you attach the "first" split-ring to the hook, and you TIE to that ring, is there any danger with cutting or weakening the line should it get up against or IN the "open/split" area of the ring?

Zoom Brush Hog in PB&J (Peanut Butter & Jelly)!!

Thanks (Wayne and guys)!

And, a question for those of you that DO "debarb" your hooks... how? What method do you use? Do you just "mash" down the barb? If not, then what method do you use? Thanks!

Got it Wayne... THANKS!!!

Wayne, could you elaborate (a lot) more on this set-up? Tubing material, how to get tubing onto the worm, hook/line through the tube before embedding in the worm, etc. THANKS in advance!!!

I like the always-tail-up posture!!!

I'd also recommend one of those cap/bill-light or one of those slip-on LED rigs (like http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_55794____SearchResults). Be sure it has a RED LED. The red LED allows you to see what you're doing (knots, backlashes, unhooking fish, etc.) without ruining your "night-vision". Insect repellent!!! Your at-night senses will be 10x of that during the day. Depending on the conditions/structure, I LOVE top-waters at night!

I use the duo-lock style http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0011850113061a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all_NYR&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntk=Products&sort=all&Go.y=13&Nty=1&hasJS=true&No=18&Ne=3&nyr=1&Ntt=snap&N=6263&Go.x=24&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form1&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1 Never had a problem with them...

Depending on the size of the spinnerbait/buzzbait, I'll use either a 4" Mr. Twister-type grub tail (i.e on 1/4oz. baits). For the larger versions, I really like a Culprit-style "ribbon-tail" worm. I usually use the 7"-8" size, but pinch-off a bit from the head to make it 5"-6"... Not saying this works for everyone, just what I like.

Sounds like some cool mods! Be sure to let us know how you do... and pictures would be nice too!

Thanks, but I'm relatively new to this site. Where are the/your blogs? Thanks!

Well, personally, I always use a curly grub (or ribbon-tail worm) trailer - WITH a skirt. I guess I've never really tried them without a skirt (and just the tail/trailer). Not sure if I understand the 2nd part of your question as I've always thought that the skirts are pretty easy to replace. Just remove the old one (cut/pull off) if it's still on and slide on a new one. Most of the replacement skirts have a small surgical-rubber tube at the core. Just carefully slide it over the point/barb, around the hook bend, and on to the head "neck" - just in front of the hook. If you have problems with it slipping off, use a drop of instant-glue. Hope that helps...

Would like to see all three, but the link you provided doesn't work (at least, not for me). :'(

Thanks for that info... I also have/use KVD conditioner. I'm anxious to see the (and if) a difference!

I've always just used something like these: http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_44440____SearchResults I can spit/moisten the line and slide it up/down to where it needs to be, and yet it will still hold the weight in place. Additionally, they're inexpensive and not very "intrusive"... to the point that when I cut off the "hook/plastic" and tie on something else, about half the time I just leave it (the stop) on until I need it for the next time.

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