crankbait2009

I have been watching the yakattack website for the new 12x20 landing net with foam extension. They had them in stock briefly, but that didn't last long. They had them priced at $100 + $30 for shipping. I've been waiting for a local store or online fishing supplier to carry them so that I could compare prices and hopefully avoid shipping costs. well, with fishing season quickly approaching, I had to buy one. Didn't really carry if it had the new features (locking joint and Lazer yakattack logo), but I located one on Eco Fishing's website. They have the landing net priced at $90, which told me that it was probably the old model, again didn't care. Bought the net for $90 and it came with free shipping, 2 days later, the net showed up. it was the newer model. So that was a nice surprise. wasn't quite sure why they were charging $10 less than yakattack for the same net. but whatever. If you're looking for the 12x20 landing net with foam extension and new features, check out Eco fishing. and shipping is free! they are in stock there!

as mentioned, a leak test would certainly give you your answer. Any chances you drilled into your hull and installed an anchor trolley? Maybe the holes on the side of the kayak is allowing water to get in. but if you're getting that much water in, I can't imagine the screw holes are the issues. Does that kayak have hull access which would allow you to see inside?

anyone have a manual or powered winch mounted on their kayak trailer? if so, can you share a photo of it installed. I'm kicking around the idea of installing one. not 100% sold on it yet.

I saw your original "link" but it wasnt clickable. So i copy and pasted. But im on the same page also. Im thinking a powered winch will be a tad much for a kayak 😁

im tinkering around with the winch idea as well. manual or powered. need to learn to work smarter, not harder. it's taken me many years to get to that point

i have the bunk boards extended 6" past the rear of the trailer. I thought about the rod box / rod tube as well. I went back and forth on that one. My rods will be on the front passenger side of my truck. I'm not sure I like the idea of them being attached to the trailer (personal preference), I also thought about leaving the crossbars for attaching a rack/storage container down the road. I nixed that in a hurry since I have the whole back seat and the bed of my truck to store things in. an additional storage system on the trailer is way overkill. so chop chop, the crossbars went made them shorter so that the ends were within the width of the fenders. I did attach ratchet straps to the frame. I liked that idea better than having to deal with the traditional way of ratchet strapping. this way I can grab the hook, swing it over the top and attach it to the D ring on the other side. so much easier. no knots/tangles etc to deal with. I do have to connect the wires together, but that's quick and easy. I will be using a wire loom/sleeve to enclose the wires to help protect them a little more from elements and everyday use. but outside of that, my mods are done for now. I definitely need to find a better trailer jack/front wheel. I find that the wheel does not swivel easily. the weight of the trailer doesn't allow it to move. so when I try to push or pull, it gets locked in the wrong direction and it just slides. I end up having to pick the nose up to move it around. defeats the purpose. but that's something I'm looking into.

Im getting ready to cut the crossbars down too, as we speak. I believe they're meant for two kayak trailers. Thought about pvc bunks. There are several options. I'll see how these board bunks work

My goal is to load and unload right into the water. This hasnt seen water yet. For me, i went with the trailer because it was black, and the off road tires. Its sexy looking 😃. I did weigh the options of the standard and off road, went back and forth. But for just a few hundred dollars more, i could get the nicer looking one. Although i have not tested it, i read somewhere that im able to drive 65-70 mph with no issues. But we'll see about that. I went with the single kayak trailer. It was easy to put together. Im modifying a couple things, but its done for the most part. Ill post some pictures when done.

I can definitely move them outwards more. When i first placed them, i googled the best location and it mentioned below the scuppers/center channel. Once i placed it, the thought entered my mind, well two thoughts actually. 1. There certainly isnt much support side to side. 2. I would think the bunks being further apart towards the outer edges of the kayak would be better. Since i wasnt certain on that, thought id ask the question here.

I have the bunks of my trailer locayed 12" apart, which has the bunks more in the center of the kayak. Is the location ok, or should they reside on the furthest sides of the kayak?

just checked, they don't carry them either

I know i tried buying through them right before the new nets came out but they didn't have them. Ill give them a shot monday. Thank you

Does anyone know what online retailers carry the new yak attack leverage landing net? the one with the new locking mechanism. YakAttack obviously sells them but I am looking for another online retailer that might offer free shipping. (Yakattack charges $30 to ship) the online retailers that show the nets, don't specify if it's the new version or not. anyone else order the new nets outside of yakattack?

for some reason, I didn't receive the flier this year. I'm planning on going this weekend so I'll get it then.

this could go under the equipment section of the forum, but i will post it here since it's an issue I'm having with my kayak. When you disengage the foot pedal to deploy the trolling motor, my prop is not moving forward so that I can release it into the water. I have seen videos where people mention to add a bungee cord inside the spiraled flex wire that goes from the head unit down to the motor. but I'm not seeing instructions on exactly how to do this. how much tension does said bungee need to have, and where exactly are you securing it to. that's if exact location is important. i believe that once this is installed, if i press the release button, the trolling motor will jump forward out of the cradle. that's the end result anyways.