deep

Just to clarify; I meant 6 lb diameter line on a 2500 size spinning reel. When I use mono/ fluoro/ copoly, I put on 6 lb test; when braid, 30 lb test (30 lb samurai has the diameter of 6 lb mono).

You are right. A balanced rod goes pretty much out of balance when you put a lure on it. But what about a bottom-bouncing presentation, or when you feed slack to the line (think of a topwater). If the lure is not pulling the rod tip down, the combo is still balanced.

I'm sorry I can't agree with you. I'm defining a balanced rod as one which has it's center of mass at the reel seat. If a rod is like that, no matter how heavy or how light a reel you put on it, it still will remain balanced. And if the center of mass was forward of the reel seat to begin with, even if you put a 2 lb reel on it, the center of mass of the combo will still be forward of the reel seat, making in unbalanced (as I'm defining it). I think you are trying to say that your Avid was more tip-heavy than your Dobyns. A heavier reel on the Avid brings the CG closer to the reel seat (but not on it). It's still tip-heavy, but less markedly so that before.

I fish the RI skinny dipper sometimes, which is a comparable bait I think. Sometimes with a keel-weighted hook, and more often on the back of a swim-jig. With a keel-weighted hook on spinning gear, I haven't seen any line-twist. Never fished it weightless though, so can't help you on that.

I haven't seen him post in a long while; I checked, and indeed, he last logged in 2 months ago to the day! I hope all is well with him.

No one rated my cranking set-up.

Improved clinch and double clinch works fine for me. Simple to tie too.

8 lb is the heaviest test I'll put on a spinning reel. I like to use 6 lb though.

Could you do a comparison between the Samurai and the Toray Bawo? Especially in manageability out of the box and in casting distance.

When I had the PQ, my Citicas and Curados did outcast it for similar lure weights. But the difference was maybe 10 feet or less, and probably not enough to make any practical difference as KMac says. Don't quote me on that though, 'cause I did no scientific testing. I figured it doesn't matter practically one way or the other.

Well, I know some folks put counterbalancing weights at the end of the rod. Do they do something like that out-of-the box?

Actually, I think my original post was pretty abrasive. I'm really sorry about that.

As I understand, all rods are tip-heavy. Meaning, the balance point is forward of the reel-seat. Maybe a tenth of an inch forward, or maybe 10 inches forward, it's still either a little tip-heavy, or a lot, or somewhere in between. I recall reading somewhere that rods are tip-heavy because of the guides and the epoxy etc. That is one of the arguments for using smaller (micro) and lighter guides I think. So, do the blanks start out perfectly balanced? I've been thinking about this for a while. Why does someone not design a butt-heavy blank on purpose, so that when you put guides and stuff on it, it'd be balanced? Given the weights and positions of the guides with respect to the reel seat, it's a simple physics problem to design such a butt-heavy rod. Someone somewhere has to have thought of this before me, but I haven't read about this anywhere. Are there any fishing disadvantages with the sort of butt-heavy blanks I'm thinking about?

That XMLTI is a great rod. I don't own one, but I've store-fished one, once. Nice choice. I wasn't trying to pick on your rod/ reel choice. I apologize if you think I came across like that. I was just asking a general question. Actually, I think I went pretty much off-topic. Sorry for the hijack!

I'm probably going out on a limb here, but I don't understand this general fascination with super-light reels. I mean unless you're mounting it on an NRX or a Steez or something - and most of us aren't I guess- isn't the overall combo going to get more & more tip-heavy with a lighter reel? Enlighten me about the superiority of the economically priced super-light reels over the $100 range Shimanos that I use.. Not a sarcasm, because I can get some of those super-light non-Shimano reels NIB at 50% off, but never actually tried them out, no kidding.

Ahh, but 80 lb Samurai has the diameter of 17 lb mono line. I don't care if the actual test strength is 80 or 50 or even 17 lb. I need a low stretch line with a diameter of 15-20 lb mono. Plus, because the shock resistance of braid is low due to the low stretch, a higher test strength helps against casting off baits on backlashes. I learnt to use braid + leader for swimbaits from a post Matt Allen made on his website. He uses 80 lb Power Pro, which probably has a larger diameter than 80 lb Samurai. But of course, he throws bigger baits on a bigger reel. Sounds like a nice set-up, especially the reel. Carbonlites are great rods I understand, especially if we believe what Clary says JK I'm almost running out of setups to post, but here's my cranking combo. Pinnacle Perfecta 7'8" MH cranking rod, Citica 201B5 12 lb Sufix Siege.

I recall reading a statement in "Sowbelly" that a bass can gain about 2 lbs with eggs. But I understand that statement is directed to trophy bass (by Cali standards).

We need a Virginia rig.. Come on fellow Virginians, we can do it.

lol, don't have any of that nasty stuff in the few lakes I fish. Mostly mud, weeds, and some rocks (a copoly leader works pretty well then).

I see. That combo looks bad****. When I started this swimbaiting endeavor a year ago, you were one of the guys who convinced me to get a 300 size reel, even for sub-3 oz baits. That was pretty good advice as I now realize. Works for me anyway. BTW, 9/10 for that combo. Took off one point for the line Carry on folks.

Don't own the rod, but I hear it's got a pretty short handle for a SB rod? That reel sure sounds awesome, but I like to use a 300 size reel for swimbaits (but what do I know). CXX? I'll pass. Not a fan of that line. Mattlures 7'7"/ 7'11" MH SB rod Revo Toro Winch 51, 4.6:1 80 lb Daiwa Samurai with or without leader. Bottom bouncing soft swimbait set-up.

And I haven't fished either of the Quantums, but the good old 'rado is one heck of a reel.

Had to google that up. You mean Quantum reels? Here's a review for the Exo, but Idk what sort of braking system it has...

Pro qualifiers, some upper end Abu Garcia reels, among others. Personally, I don't see any advantage, although others will probably disagree. I used to have a Pro Q. I just set the mags to zero, and worked the centri brakes and my thumb. Curados are fine reels, and the Shimano braking system is very user-friendly, and plain works. I have half a dozen Curados and Citicas. I see no need to "upgrade", certainly not for the braking system alone. If I had the money, I'd probably buy some higer end Shimanos, but that's about it.

I suspect you'll be very happy with that Powell you bought. It's a very sensitive rod at even it's full retail price point, and withstands a lot of abuse and still keeps going.