RoLo

A couple things here. On balance, I have a soft spot for "aluminum" hulls, but space is too limited to expound on the reasons for both. On the other hand, for boats over 15-feet long, I generally prefer a "fiberglass" hull (aluminum for any boat less than 15-ft). What's most important is what you want that boat to do, because glass and aluminum both have their benefits and glitches. If you decide on aluminum, I would certainly avoid a riveted hull, and opt instead for a full-welded hull (e.g. Tracker, Crestliner). Needless to say, you may get lucky and not have any problems at all, but that doesn't describe everyone's experience. If you beat-up your boats like I do, you can "bet" on leaky rivots over time, or even worse, popped rivets. Roger

That's another good question, and unfortunately, Garmin's parade of extensions is not without a glitch. The default extension, and the one I've been using for years is ".gdb" (i.e. Garmin DataBase). One day I was making aggressive changes to the software, when suddenly the program failed to recognize my mapsource files, I was totally out-of-commission! After trying several things, I ended up tricking the software by switching to the ".mps" extension, then switching back to ".gdb". My files have been operative every since. For the record, Garmin also uses other extensions which may be involved in Universal Recognition, some of Garmin's other extensions include: ".gpx", ".dxf" and of course ".txt". Roger

Welcome to the forum, Intuldt Truthfully, I never do any "flipping", but use short-range pitching instead. As for "pitching", that's done with any rod that happens to be in my hand. As it happens, my Shimano Stradic and Symetre spinning reels do the lion's share of my pitching...they're the Hoot! Roger

Thank You Roger

I use them for two purposes (btw: They don't have a name, so I call them "T-Rig Jigs"): 1. As you indicated, the T-rig jig precludes the need to "peg" the sinker when fishing in weedy and brushy areas. 2. Also, if you want a weedless shaky worm (bottom-crawler), a separate hook and weight is not the best situation because they act like a knuckle or shock-absorber. But when the hook and weight are joined at the hip, so to speak, the bumps in the road are better transferred to the worm. Roger

AVID HIT 6000 POSTS TODAY!! Let's hear it for AVID everyone, he's been a tremendous source of great information, and for a long time. This place would not be the same without him

You're right, the manuals are not very clear, what's worse, there's one manual for the hardware and another for the software : That's a great question by the way, I'm really amazed that I never seen it here before. If you've purchased the little pre-programmed card, you will have a problem with data transfer because the cards are copy-protected and cannot be viewed on the PC. but only on the host unit (GPS). If you've bought the big DVD disk then it should be a piece of cake, because the data belongs to you and may be viewed on both the GPS and PC. If you wish, you can transfer the whole lake file and send it to a friend. Select what you wish to send by clicking the "Recieve From Device" button, then check or uncheck the components that you want included: "Maps" - "Waypoints" - "Routes" - "Tracks" Rename the file, save it to your attachment folder, zip it up, then shoot it out Roger

Welcome to the forum Lynj Just swipe the coordinates to highlight all the digits, then simply copy-and-paste them to the desired location. This is far safer than keying-in each digit because it eliminates the chance to make typos (i.e. accumulation of error). Roger

Around 1990, a couple years before leaving New Jersey, I took my daughter and son-in-law to Merrill Creek Reservoir. It had just opened to the public, and there were no accomodations just a slag-rock road and a big cyclone fence at the entrance. We were just shore-fishing, but had fun catching countless TINY largemouth and smallmouth bass mixed together. The hadn't established their location yet and were everywhere around the lake's perimeter. I often wonder what Merrill Creek Reservoir looks like today (used to deer-hunt that area too). Roger

A while back I used a Trilene Big Game leader with PowerPro braid (I dislike fluoro), and I joined them using back-to-back 5-twist Uni-Knots (nary a problem). I've never noticed any difference with or without the leader, so I stopped bothering with the leader. Roger

To begin with, X-point is 'definitely' an excellent premium hook. If I were using them now, I probably wouldn't switch to Gamakatsu, and vice versa. > 4 micro cutting edges insure structural integrity and strength I'm assuming the surgical point is coined, then there is no question that four swaged cutting notches would certainly increase the "structural integrity" (the term "strength" is a synonym for same). > Perfect, straight point are always parallel to line-of-pull In tool making we refer to that as column strength, but that sort of reiterates structural integrity' mentioned above. As for hook-point in the "line-of-pull"I don't know. If you have a hook in front of you it's very easy to confirm. If the hook-point is in the "line-of-pull", it will be pointing directly at the line-eye (e.g. the Gamakatsu is in the line-of-pull). > XPoints are made from 110 carbon steel. Others boast about their 80 rating. That's a tough one because different manufacturers use different conventions. Here's the deal, the higher the carbon content, the harder the steel can be made through heat-treating If it's hardened to 66 rockwell, that's called 'glass hard' and needs to drawn-back (tempered) to say 5860 or 60-62 on the C-scale. If my memory serves me correctly, "110 carbon" is what toolmakers refer to as O1 (O = Oil), a medium-carbon oil-hardened steel (there's air-hardened, oil-hardened and water-hardened steel). Equally important are the additives (what turns iron into steel), and with respect to edge-keenness I'd like to see high carbon, high-chrome steel with molybdenum and vanadium. I doubt that well ever see that anymore, I think they're afraid of intimidating today's consumer. Roger

I've made my living as a tool & die maker, and during my apprenticeship I worked a couple years in a cutter house. There I sharpened end-mills, and was the form-grinder for customized lathe tools (radii, angles with primary and secondary relief). I had my own oven and did most of my own heat-treating and tempering (drawing back). Unlike years ago, point-keenness today is no longer an issue. Today, all premium hooks are dangerously sharp, but bear in mind: the sharper the point, the sooner it dulls. Just as important as edge keenness is the Rockwell and temper of the steel. In other words, IS the point sharp, or WAS the point sharp. Watch any professional while he fillets fish, and notice how often he hones the knife. When I bow-hunted for deer, I did the same thing with all my broadhead arrow points. Though I might have been in charge of sharpness, the longevity of my job relied on the hardness and temper of the steel. Never forget, "sharp" is only a temporary condition, and since many of today's hooks cannot be resharpened (e.g. triple knife-edge)we are at the mercy of steel grade (chromium, vanadium, etc), Rockwell (hardness) & temper (grain relaxation). Without a doubt, the knife-edge point' requires less force to break through membrane than a conical point. But point configuration is only one facet, and for someone using polyurethane braid instead of nylon mono, it's a moot point. Equally important is are wire diameter and "hook configuration" (e.g. sproat, circle hook, O'shaughnessy, kahle). My favorite hook is the Gamakatsu Super Line (offset shank), but there's no single reason why I use that brand. It's a combination of wire configuration, edge-keenness, hardness, temper and a solid track record. There are several wonderful premium hooks available, but before switching hook brands understand that changing hook brands will alter the entry and exit point of your hook, as well as the weight added to the lure. Just for example, I know that the Gamakatsu 4/0 Super Line weighs 21 grains, but I don't know or care what other brands weigh. Roger

FiveBass, before I order 3 pounds of these powerbait worms, let me ask you a question. I know that you're familiar with the Strike King Finesse worms (3x cyberflexxx). Does the tail of this Berkley worm float as high as the Strike King 7" finesse worm? Roger

I have to agree with you, I've also read conflicting reports about braided line. This much I know, nothing has improved my hook-sets more than braided line and that applies to topwater, mid-water & on bottom. Braided polyethylene (PowerPro) "tends" to float, but due to its thin diameter it may begin to sink slightly over time. Regardless of the line used, when fishing on the surface with hollow frogs, solid toads and poppers it's usually wise to keep the rod tip HIGH. A high rod-tip keeps the most line off the water, and this gives the angler two advantages. The action imparted to the lure will be more buoyant and natural looking, because even floating line dampens lure action. With less line in the water, the hook-sets won't be encumbered by as much "surface tension". Line doesn't have to sink to present a problem, because water possesses a natural adhesion called "surface tension". Ever notice, when water is poured very slowly into a glass, that the water will actually pile-up "above" the edge of the glass, before flowing over the side? That's "surface tension". Without a doubt, the stretch in nylon monofilament is beneficial when using crankbaits, but offers little help with surface lures. With crankbaits we're only talking about a millisecond, because the strike takes place "after" the fish is felt. With topwater lures though, we might strike at the sight or sound of the bass, "before" the fish is felt. There's not enough stretch in nylon monofilament to delay the hook-set a full second. That's the angler's responsibility. Roger

I'll third the zoom fluke and zoom trick worm advice, and throw in an unweighted ugly otter (esp. in bulrushes). Roger

I agree that color is on the bottom of the heap, but you've got to admit it's a great conversation piece ;D Somewhere between the jig skirt and plastic trailer I make sure that I'm displaying BOTH a dark color and light color. There is no way to know in advance what lighting conditions your lure will encounter, which may vary within the same retrieve. For instance, the available light increases sharply as the lure is worked from deep water into shallow water. Or, the sun is burning brightly when you make your cast, then about midway in your retrieve it goes behind a dark cloud. Or, the lure lands alongside a piling in the shade of a dock, and then you drag into full sunlight....get my drift? Roger

Good question Marty. I like your idea of wetting the bag, that way if I get a little sloppy with the water, I can get some nice high readings On a serious note and in the fish's interest, it's very easy to get the "Tare Weight" of your rubber net. Just tie a tiny string-hoop through the end of the net handle, and place it on the hook of the digital scale while still in the "OFF" position. Now switch the digital scale "ON", then add the fish to the net. The readout on a good digital scale will exclude the weight of the net. Roger

On our wharf Avid, I seen at otter about two weeks ago. I watched this beautiful creature as he surfaced and dived while making his way leisurely down the canal. During that brief moment I felt so privileged, my whole world just stood still! In the same spot about 1/2 year earlier, I was fishing off the wharf in our canal. One of the residents walked up to me and asked, "Have you seen any alligators?" I thought to myself, Uh oh, here we go again, someone who loves Florida, but is afraid of Gators. This was right around the time when some nude bonehead, high on crack was attacked by an alligator "after dark" in Lake Parker. So happens there were two young alligators in the canal at that time. On several occasions I had to burn the lure, not to hook one of the little fellows. Of course, I didn't rat on those tiny gators, for fear that he'd call Animal Control. Don, there's quite a heavy population of cormorants and anhingas on our lake, but I welcome their presence. I look at the situation much like income tax. The surest way to avoid taxes is not to make money, therefore the more taxes I pay the better I'm doing. Very large and very deep fish are pretty safe from piscivorous birds. But once the fish-eating birds have heavily pruned the population of catchable fish, they have no choice but to move on. So as long as I continue to see fish-eating birds, I feel assured that the fish population is healthy and providing sustenance. By the same token, I believe that the sight of purple martens, tells us that mosquitos are prevalent, rather than absent. Roger

Yes I know muddy...thank you. Those are the ones that I ordered from Bass Pro. I'm sure they're better than the Jobees, which really had a lot of issues. Roger

Otters prefer smaller bass, whereas alligators prefer big bass. Regardless, none of these predators are any cause for concern. Predators maintain the balance of nature, and they perform this vital service far better than man. True Story I was in a hobby shop looking over their birdhouses and nesting boxes. The proprietor explained to me how important it is to have a colony of purple martens. He explained, that when you have martens you'll be able to enjoy your backyard in the evening, because the martens will eat up all the mosquitos! He looked a little puzzled when I asked him, "So what do the martens eat?" Roger

I don't know how many have noticed, but it looks like Bass Pro Shops has dumped the Jobee Heads. The substitute T-rig jig is the so-called "Luck E Strike Perfect Worm Jig" I'm willing to bet that Jobee was ousted due to excessive complaints about workmanship. If you grasp the hook of the Jobee Head and twist the lead head, the bond is easily broken and you will feel the lead-head rotate around the hook-shank. Anyway, I ordered out a few Lucky E Strike perfect worm heads, hopefully the workmanship is better. By the way, the 1/16 and 1/8 oz Luck "E" Strikes use a 2/0 hook, which is pretty good (the Owner T-rig jig uses 1/0) The Luck "E" Strike 1/4 oz jig uses a 4/0 hook (Owner uses a 2/0). Roger

Place the fish in a plastic grocery bag then hook the bag handles to weigh your fish. Roger

Hmmm, I've never owned a Daiwa Tierra, but now you've piqued my curiosity. TackleTour said that if the Tierra was priced $40 higher, they wouldn't flinch. Check out that kool blue finish 8-) Roger

I enjoyed your story, grandpa. Compared to the rods that I was exposed to as a child, the Ugly Stick is an esoteric work-of-art! My first rod was a 'metal' bay rod with an ugly black conventional reel that I wasn't able to cast (some things never change). The ugly stick is a tremendous value, but of course, compared to graphite they're heavy and lack sensitivity. All the same, fiberglass is stronger and cheaper than graphite, which cannot be summarily dismissed. Roger

Thank you sir, 5 it is