QUIENYO

I have one strap, but its not super tight. I think i may be ok. Another question, I am new to the kayak club, why would it matter if it is roto molded? I get that that is the process used to make the boat, what does that mean as far as durability?

I know... old post. Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd see if anyone here knows. I have a Pescadore Pro110 that I just got and I've used it twice, once transported with the tailgate down and once with the tailgate up. I drive an F150 with the short 5.6 bed. A buddy of mine pointed out that I may be creating a "soft spot" where the kayak rests on the closed tailgate. Is there any truth to this? I live in Arizona where its going to be in or near triple digits for the next three or four months so it seems somewhat plausible that I may create a soft spot while traveling in excess of an hour each way to a lake in mid-day heat. Thanks for any insight.

Perception Pescador Pro100 is $618 at REI through tomorrow. Oars and PFDs are 15-25 % off as well. If you haven't pulled the trigger yet, go get yourself a great entry level set-up before the end of the day tomorrow and have no regrets that you got a great deal on a great set up that gets you on the water and off the shore. That's all I've got to say about that!

I was struggling with the same question for a while. In the end, the idea of needing a trailer (axle maintenance, registration) in addition to registering the jon, turned me to a fishing Kayak. I ended up getting a decent entry level yak and am currently having a great time configuring it for my needs. I just strap it in the truck and go. Good luck.

If you know there are large bass, the bottom is weeds and you don't want the pike to hit, I'd go big. Get a small tungsten punch weight with a skirt that matches the local foliage. Use a 3/0 hook and Texas rig a creature bait of your choice and have at it. I would think if you pitched this around the island, you may get some takers. Good luck.

For those of you that get the shot; do a set of push-ups afterwards. This helps to circulate the meds through your muscle tissue and prevents the "dead arm" sore spot the next day.

Please, anyone new to fishing; remember that professional anglers are paid well by their sponsors to advertise their products. I'm not saying that that those products are bad, just consider that when pushed by the guy wearing the company shirt, it's not exactly an objective opinion.

Well, I'd say the worst that can happen is you have no luck with the frogs. I've had some great luck with top water frogs in small lakes and ponds. Neither of the bodies of water had any visible top water feeding at the time. I've always gone off of the assumption that if there are bass in the water and you hear or see frogs, then the bass will hit frog baits. I'd say tie one on and get after it. Good luck.

Get yourself 1/2 oz. or bigger jig. Put a rage tail lobster on for a trailer. Throw that set up into the best looking cover you see while walking around the pond. Think like that big bass; if you were the alpha bass, where would you choose as the best ambush spot in the pond. Pitch your jig and trailer there. Good luck.

I have 6# on two of my spinning set ups and it handles fine. I don't use any line conditioner and have had zero issues with coiling or memory. Pull the trigger and get some.

Kind of beating a dead horse here, but I do agree with most of what has been said. For me, If the situation calls for a quick presentation and retrieve, I prefer the jig and pig. If its more of a cast and retrieve over distance, I prefer a T-rigged set up. The T-rig can be used for the quick presentation, but I find more often than not, the jig and pig gets hung up if I'm covering a lot of ground on the retrieve. Oh yeah, welcome to the best resource there is next to time on the water.

I went out the last two days and had good luck. I started with top water stuff and worked through two different types of swimbait before I settled on a Texas Rigged, Strike King 5 inch worm. If there is any single reason why that bait worked, it is because I could work it slow. When I cast from the bank, the bait gets out far enough to go beyond the ledge. I let the bait sit for at least a ten second count, then give it a twitch before making two or three slow turns of the handle. At this point I let the bait sit for another 5-10 seconds before I repeat the process again. As I work around the pond where I fish, I eventually find the spot where the bass are settled. Usually I can land three or four fish in successive casts before I need to move on. When its cold, the bass keep together in packs in deeper water. If you are bank fishing from the shore of a large lake, you may need to wait until it warms up a bit and the fish start to move to shallow water. It was in the high 40s today and is forecast to be near 90 by the end of the week. I'm hoping that by next weekend I may be able to start picking off some fatties that have moved to the shallow water. Good luck to you.

By soft plastics, I'm mostly throwing Texas Rigged senkos, lizards and creature baits. Yeah, I had forgotten about the elite tech, that is also a great rod. I guess that makes the decision a bit harder. Anyone own the ***? I read a great review on the *** on TackleTour and was hoping for some first hand reviews.

I'm looking for a sub $150 spinning rod to pair with my Stradic FI 2500. This set up will be primarily for bottom bouncing soft plastics. I'm looking at the *** for $99 and the both the Compre ($75) and Crucial ($112). I'm also not sure what action I should be looking at. Is a MH going to be too heavy for such light presentations? Would a Medium be better or is that too light for anything other than DS and Shakeyheads? Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.

Well, I would think they will send you another reel. Weather that reel is smooth, like it should be, is more dependent on Abu Garcia than TW. Good luck.