skeletor6

Just wanted to add some input here. Vince is a guy that is a great resource you can contact to find out more infromation with this rod. These are extremely light rods. I'll demonstrate. Model WEIGHT Casting C682 3.41 C683 3.49 C712 3.52 C713 3.58 C714 3.61 C715 3.65 C744 4.19 C764 4.24 C766 5.40 C796 5.52 C804 5.48 Spinning S692 3.63 S722 3.69 S723 3.71 S762 4.01 S763 4.09 Note: I copied this from Vince Borges. As far as Power goes, these rods play about 50-75% less in their power range. For example a Recon 714 would be like a recon 713.25 or 713.5 if that makes sense. The actions are more moderate fast, definitely not EF. But I believe Vince noted the sensitivity with these reconds falls somewhere inbetween a Loomis IMX and GLX. That says a lot. Negatives about Gen 1 recons are the hook keeper, the small handle section that leads to balance issues and the foam grips if you do not like them. I would be hard pressed to find a better rod in this price range. I advice you to look up Phenix's Website call them up and ask to talk to Vince Borges. He'll be able to explain in more detail.

The bearing upgrades and supertuning can be nice, but it is not necessary. These reels are pretty easy to take down and clean yourself. The drag on them are better than most reels so the carbontex drag upgrade is not necessary in my use. Furthermore, if you are tight on money just break it down, clean it and oil it yourself. It takes some time to break in those Shimano Reels in my opinion. If you just want to upgrade it and have it cleaned professionally, having a professional such as DVT would take care of you for those needs. Actually, If I were you I would contact DVT right here on this forum and ask him what he can do for you. He gives a discount to members on the forum here and is timely in his responses. Nice guy overall and will not sell you on products you don't need. Also, if you want any in depth explanation about what the upgraded bearings would do for your specific reel, he would be able to explain it best.

OP are you at all concerned with the different brands of these lines that we are using? I just mentioned the pound test in mine. If so, I use 12# Seaguar Tatsu and 12# Shooter both coated with KVD Line and Lure. If I had a cheaper rod I would probably using braid to fish these techniques and would use Daiwa Samurai with any fluoro leader in equal diameter test. Samurai is good stuff. There is a sale for buy one get one free Sunline FC Sniper and if you are considering fluorocarbon jump on it. The line is very nice for the price and is the middle ground between manageability and sensitivity.

1.) For a finesse rod I would look for a used avid 6'8 MXF. Might be able to find one around $100 and it would be great. Also, if you could snag a Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth in MXF it would be a great spinning setup as well. Go spinning for finesse fishing, especially since you are trying to keep costs down. I would not go MH for the applications you listed. MXF should serve you well. ANd yes MXF is the right action and power in my opinion. 2.) Flipping and pitching rod under $100 you say. You already mentioned the powell diesel. They have a great one for $70. Also a 7'6'' MH veritas would work well. I would get one of those two. People worship the Veritas on here so you might want to try that out. Either way don't pay more than $80 for the Veritas. Powell Diesel would be the casting version 765cef "765CEF - Measuring 7'6" long, this is the longest rod in the Diesel lineup. The added length and muscular 5-power rating makes this an ideal rod for flipping, pitching, punching in thick cover, as well as, doubling as a nice swimbait stick." On black friday this rod will go for 20% off`making it a $54 rod I believe. Nice deal.

Definitely "interwebz mis-communication" going on WW2! LOL From what I understand the Veritas graphite is 30 Million Modulus and the IMX's are 55 Million Modulus. Most would agree the GLX's are better than the IMX's and those blanks are 68 Million Modulus. I do not really see the comparison between a Veritas and IMX and I don't think the OP really did either. The Veritas just really isn't in the same league as the IMX and LTB and it would not be in the OP's best interest to trade a LTB for one. If you want to do that, I am sure you will find many who are willing to make that trade. You and iaBass did a great job explaining the pros/cons of each choice. I only own one of each, so I am less informed. Personally, I think it would be hard to go wrong with the IMX MBR844. I keep buying new rods and in the meantime can always find another way to use this rod. It is very versatile and works very well. Not the best rod I have ever used, but surely has a place in my arsenal.

I've had success with 12# fluorocarbon, don't need the extra strength as many of you have posted. http://www.bassresou...g-fishing-line/ http://www.bassresou...-line-for-jigs/ http://www.bassresou...-line-for-jigs/ http://www.bassresou...or-jigworm-rod/ http://www.bassresou...g-worm-fishing/

I was not bashing the Veritas. They are decent rods and great if you consider the price if I had $80 to buy a rod that would be my choice, but the OP clearly stated his disliking of his own LTB and wanted a comparison to an IMX for trading purposes. Therefore, I dont see why a Veritas should be a part of the conversation. I believe Zach corrected himself by editing his post. I also find Zach's post to be correct in regards to the balance of the LTB 7'MHXF. Mine is also tip heavy. As mentioned WW2 is a well respected member and knows what he is talking about. Furthermore, I have had lengthy discussions with member iabass and his wealth of knowledge and experience is exceptional and great for the question you are asking. I once asked this same exact question and he helped me with it and his statements were exactly as I had experienced. Their recommendations, experience, and advice will be the most accurate. Furthermore, to add my own experience. I have the LTB 7' MHXF and a Loomis IMX MBR 844c. The Loomis balances better than the LTB and would be my choice between the two. Also note though, that there are power differences as there are between any rod manufacturers. St. Croix's MH is almost a Loomis' heavy. I would rather have the split grip of the LTB, So it really depends on what rod you are looking to trade for and how that specific rod feels to you. Sensitivity wise they will be about equal. Choose the one that you feel will suit you and your fishing style and purposes the best.

I agree with ww2 and iabass. On par with sensitivity. My LTB 7' MHXF is tip heavy a little. The actions on the St. Croixs I feel are faster and they also are more powerful than rated. My MBR844 IMX balances better. Those guys have much more experience than I. Either way trade to a rod that you will feel suits your needs better. They are pretty equivalent. The veritas should not very a part of this discussion IMHO.

Thanks SunFish, that's actually the same boat I posted in the OP I believe. I spoke with the guy and he said he was one $2500 firm and negotiations ended from there. I noticed he reposted a few days ago. It sounds like that he is saying "We're looking to sell" seems like maybe his wife is pushing him too lol. Maybe he'll come down with some time he's had this going for almost a month at that price.

Unfortunately I am not looking to finance a boat, but thank you for the alternate idea. What do you guys think of this boat? http://holland.craig...3244359232.html "Cables and steering wheel are brand new. Transom is good also I have a plate in there to keep it good. I checked compression this spring and its perfect. The engine runs good and goes fast. " Quote from seller to me. Also, what style boat is this? It looks different from the other glasser boats and is older, but seems fairly wide. How much would it be worth considering all the questions I am supposed to ask and assess check out:?

I advise you to take RoadWarrior's information and run with it! WIth the setups he laid out for you, you would literally be in fishing gear heaven with those rod selections. You would have some of the best equipment available on the market period. Definitely go with all of the reels he suggested for each technique. There is a reason he paired each reel to each rod for its technique and he did an excellent job with it. If I could have those selections I would be thoroughly happy. The only thing I might change is the Dobyns Champion 683 to either the G. Loomis 873c or 893c. The Loomis 854 would pair nicely with a 873 or 893 and should be able to cover your jigging applications. Kent, which series were you recommending for him from G. Loomis? "Dam007", Rodwarrior really knows his gear and what he has laid out for you would all be excellent setups. Personally, I would love to have all the rods and reels he mentioned. From what you said, it seems that you do not have any real money constrictions. If this is so, on all the G. Loomis rods he posted try to get either the GLX or NRX series of each. You will not be disappointed and furthermore, you will never feel the need to upgrade your equipment. Also, if you want to go a different route other than G. Loomis the Dobyn's Extreme rods are excellent rods as well for jigs and soft plastics. I would go with the Loomis' though IMHO.

Tom, it sounds like you are well versed on the topic. I was wondering if you could expand more on how exactly force travels through a fishing line. And how this differs between fluorocarbon and braid. I assumed it was some type of vibration, you claim it has to do with linear movement. I understand your correlations between drag coefficients, but I am more interested in how sensation is traveled through a line. If you could expand upon this I would greatly appreciate it since it is a topic that intrigues me. Thank you

That's right I'm using that now too. lol They shut down some cool websites that would do a good job too. Now I use this one for mass searching. http://www.searchtempest.com/ They used to have a site called crazedlist.org and it was awesome. It would search all databases that you wanted it too and display it in a nice way. These other ones aren't too bad.

You could not have been more helpful. I thank you so much for all of your responses and efforts to get me to the intellectual point where I should be on this purchase. Furthermore, I would also like to thank all others for their contributions and experiences as well, I had no idea of the different items to look at or the horror stories that could result from buying the wrong way. Wow, thank you for the detailed response about your own personal experience. It sounds like you were in a very similar situation that I am in right now. I am very sorry to here about the unfortunate problems you encountered. The boat looks great though. The story of what you went through is something that I am hoping to avoid if possible. I am glad that it did not turn out to be a lemon. After hearing about what you went through, it definitely makes sense to me why I was directed to check all of these different properties of the boat for its integrities. I had no clue that so many problems could arise in a boat. I'll take your advice and not rush into it. I really appreciate you sharing your story with me, that definitely sheds light on what everyone has preached about in this thread. Thank you

How can one make the claim of "good scientific papers on the topic" and then give a link to Brian Edman's blog where science is not being conducted in a "good" manner? I clearly demonstrated how Edman's scientific testing was flawed. I judged the validity of his testing based from a scientific perspective. Never once was I critical of his experience. I do not know him, I can not judge his experience. I was judging his science. You made those claims, not me. When someone tries to draw conclusions based off of science that is not valid I will not trust those conclusions. You are misinterpreting what I was being critical of. I was being critical of Brian Edman's Science. Never once did I claim that he was inexperienced and that nobody should trust him because of it. I was judging his science and scientific methods and that his conclusions that he draws from this scientific testing. Never once in there is his experience bashed or did I claim that experience has nothing to do with it. I actually said the best results we have are from individual observations and the communication between these observations. These observations are gained through experience. "man with experience is never at the mercy of the man with an argument" (anonymous). While it is nice that you repeated a quote that inspires many theosophical debates, I find it inapplicable when one is judging the validity of scientific testing. I am sure Brian Edman would have a lot to say based off of his experience. I even attested to the fact that the best evidence we have about fishing lines is in the individuals who fish them. Forums like the very one we are on are a great place to gather a larger sample of individual observations and draw conclusions based off of them. All the "advantages of fluorocarbon" that I had labeled out in the first post that I made and the table that I gathered are based off of the common concensus that most have on this forum. That is how I created the tables. I did not create them through scientific testing. I believe you are misinterpreting my intentions. My intentions were to claim the data he gathered and the conclusions he drew off of his data were invalid. Nothing else. Also, I intended to demonstrate through my tables which I admittedly said were vague, to say that braid with fluoro leaders do not offer the "best of both worlds". As a member here had that question and I helped answer it for him. I once too had that exact same question, because the claim that braided line with fluoro leader gives the best of both worlds can be misleading. (i.e. slack line sensitivity) Furthermore, I understand Mr. Edman's intentions, I never thought this was a discussion of Mr. Edman's intentions? Simply, it was being said that good scientific evidence was out there to represent these lines. I simply do not agree with that point. Fluorocarbon line is the best example of how variate one brand from the other is in manageability, sensitivity (slack and tight lined), knot strength, breaking strength, etc. Your mentioning of toray and invisx are great examples of the variations between different brands. Now if you want to discuss the intentions of Mr. Edman we can. He intended to back up his statement "many of the fluorocarbon claims by manufacturers and anglers alike is largely a bunch of bull" with his testing that he did. Take this quote for example. " Bottom line is that it still looks like for every stretchy mono, there is an equally stretchy fluorocarbon - and for every low stretch fluorocarbon, there is also a low stretch mono that acts similarly. So, until someone generates actual data that tips the "stretch balance" in favor of fluorocarbon, as opposed to just claiming it or posting it as gospel in some message forum, I'm not believing any of it, and you shouldn't either - call BS on 'em, and apologize later only if they can produce the data I'm guessing most probably can't." This, in my opinion, is his strongest statement that he made in the blog. Still, I do not agree that his data was enough to prove it. Furthermore, has anyone ever notice once you stretch mono/fluoro once, than go to stretch it again, it does not rebound the same? I would not call that equal stretching in any way. Furthermore, I would like someone to show me an equal diameter mono with the stretch characteristics of Sunline Shooter or Toray Superhard? So to say that fluoro and mono are equivalent is incorrect. I am sure that many of us who go ahead and use fluorocarbon and find it advantageous for many applications are just "fooled" by the manufacturers claims and only use it as so. I find comments like that just wrong. With fluorocarbon you get what you pay for and you get the advantages and disadvatages that come with it. I am sure the many professional anglers and anglers alike who use this line and have been deceived to think they are getting advantages (placebo effect) and are actually just getting mono equivalent properties. I use fluoro, braid, and mono when the conditions and techniques call for it and find them all to be unique and have different properties. Like I have stated if you go ahead and by a crappy fluoro, you will learn to hate fluorocarbon. You cannot buy cheap if you want to buy fluorocarbon. This I have learned through my experience and I am sure Mr. Edman has as well since he loves Toray's line which is anything, but cheap then he goes ahead and tests Stren fluoro.

No....I'll address this below. I agree with a lot that you have to say. That is an interesting analysis of rough conditions versus calm. I believe it is easier to "line watch" braid and this would definitely be easier in calm conditions. Also, braid has a tendency to belly in the wind, which also lessens its effectiveness in rough conditions. The only part I would advise you to reconsider is what scientific testing truly is. The big indiana bass article you are referring to is not very scientific at all. I have read his results and for one find the guy biased against fluorocarbon lines. Objectivity is necessary in all forms of scientific procedures. It can effect data, it will certainly affect ones interpretations and discussion of their findings. Furthermore, he does not clearly indicate his methods and materials, his hypothesis and his graphs are vague. I must follow scientific processes and often must write and find scientific articles for many of my graduate level classes. If I created a test like he did, I would be lucky if my professor even gave me credit. The best testing out there that I have seen has been done by tackletour in their showdowns. They give a much better idea of their methods, spell out their materials very well. State why they are performing the tests and give unbiased results. Still there are many unanswered scientific questions regarding many fluorocarbon lines. I feel if we could find accurate processes to test "sensitivity" of not only lines, but rods then we could allow for much more objective results. How it stands now, the best way to get information about a specific line is by collective observation. Having many people going out there, testing a certain line and explaining what they liked and did not like. The gathered consensus of these observations will probably give you a good idea of what the line will be like if you hear enough opinions. I use both braid and fluoro and braid w/fluoro leader (never done fluoro with braid leader lol), and used hybrid line. I feel the line one uses is very important in the fishing process. I strive to find out for myself which is the best line to use under certain conditions to give myself the best edge when I am out there fishing. Thanks for presenting your ideas! I too use braid with a fluoro leader as do many on this board, but not exclusively because I feel it is not the best of both worlds. I will explain very vaguely why (this should help answer your question gallowaypt!)... Braid (Pros in Blue) (Cons in RED) Tight line sensitivity is great Slack line sensitivity is terrible Very strong line Not abrasion Resistant Manageable, ties strong knots Very Visible Fluorocarbon (pros and cons) Decent tight line sensitivity (I'll call this neutral) Good slack line sensitivity Abrasion Resistant Memory issues Knot tying issues Breaking Strength isnt that of braid Visibility is Very low Fluoro with braid leader Great Tight line sensitivity Slack line sensitivity is terrible Abrasion Resistant Breaking Strength isnt that of braid Knot issues Visibility is very low Now if we had the best of both worlds it would look like this!!! Best of Both Worlds Great Tight Line Sensitivity Good Slack line sensitivity Abrasion Resistant Strong knots Breaking strength is that of braid Low visibility Very manageable YES, I will admit that I left out some points. My goal was to show how it is not the best of both worlds. Braid with fluoro leader is great because it allows you to get the fluorocarbon low visibility and abrasion resistance while also allowing one to use braid which has excellent sensitivity on a tight line and that lasts a very long time and is manageable to cast. Although it does dig into the spool, but I won't go there that isn't the debate. The main idea here is that you will not get the slack line sensitivity of fluorocarbon in a braid with fluoro leader. If you did, then I believe you would see almost everybody using this combo for everything. Hopefully, some day we can have a line that has the slack line sensitivity of a tight lined braid, that actually has the abrasion resistance of fluorocarbon and the strength and manageability of braid. If you did that, you would make a lot of anglers happy, including myself

Thanks for posting the article Kevin. Unfortunately, his results do not "Nail the Coffin Shut" in my eyes. The fact that he just chose 'Nylon 2' To compare it against "Fluorocarbon" is troubling. For one, why did he chose 'Nylon 2'? Probably because it exhibited he closest shape. What fluorocarbon did he used to the test? I hope he did not use vanish like he did in the first article he wrote. For one to accurately interpret the information we need a much thorough description of methods and materials he is using for his tests. Especially the materials (what fluorocarbons, what monos, why did you choose those certain lines?) and there are so many more questions I could ask just on his research methods. Seeing those graphs really does not prove anything to me. The only part that I will agree with is that there is not a large amount of information given by the companies to back up the claims that some of the companies make of their lines. The best testing that I have seen so far has been done by tackletour. There you will see stretch comparisons over many different fluoro's with a baseline mono that is one that many would consider a reasonable control group to measure against. Furthermore, the results given on tackletour elude further to the point that I have made in many different posts, and that Roadwarrior is saying. The quality of line you buy makes a huge difference. Especially when buying fluorocarbon. I could almost guarantee you that he would not have the same test results if he chose a high end fluoro, especially if he chose Sunline Shooter FC. Furthermore, I do not feel that there is an accurate an objective method that has been created to test "sensitivity". That is the question that we all really want an answer to. The stretch debate, in my eyes, is pretty much over. Yes, some fluorocarbon lines stretch equally or more than mono, but there are that stretch significantly less than mono as well. What does all this mean? That not all fluorocarbons are manufactured the same. If all lines were actually 100% fluorocarbon than you would see more of the same characteristics for each line. There are certainly impurities and different manufacturing processes that leads to such drastic changes in products that are all considered "100% fluorocarbon". Furthermore, the biggest problem I have with all of these testing is the straight ability for these comparisons to neglect the effect that density has on a line. Sure, people will talk about it only in terms of allowing the line to sink. And people indirectly will be talking about density when they talk about refractive properties of fluorocarbon (density plays a role in that as well), but my biggest problem is that density does play a role in vibration transmission. It is common for people to simply just measure the stretch of a line and say hey, this line is the most sensitive because of its stretch. Sure, that is a definitive answer for braid on a 'tight' line. But does braid feel dead when there is slack in the line? This deals with the density of the line! Those fibers are not as dense as fluorocarbon especially when considering the way in which they are wound together and the porous effect that has.What my point is, is that a line that is made of a denser material and denser structure will be able to not lose the energy that is given to it (via a fish strike), at the same rate as a line that is not as dense. Hence why slack line sensitivity is one of fluorocarbon's greatest strengths. Especially in the highest grade fluorocarbons (highest grade=greatest purity and structure of material). I am sorry, but I simply do not agree with you. In fact, fluorocarbon is the best example of how "you get what you pay for" in line. You do not see hardly anybody complaining about "Seaguar Tatsu" or "Sunline Shooter", people absolutely love these lines and they are expensive and they are superior to the cheap fluorocarbons. People even have monofilament lines that they prefer and feel are better than others. This is all not a placebo effect, some lines are simply made better and perform better. Going back to what RoadWarrior said, of all the expenses that goes into fishing, line is not very high on the list of expenses. Fishing with a cheap crappy line can ruin your day easily. Especially if you keep breaking off and backlashing etc. I thoroughly believe that when buying fluorocarbon that buying cheap to have your wallet thank you is an absolutely bad ideology. Also, the professionals do promote their products, it is their job if they are being sponsored, but they are not going to go out in a big tournament fishing with a crappy line just to make their sponsors happy. There is a reason why many professionals choose fluorocarbon and that is because it is advantageous in many areas and certain techniques period. It is not a gimmick for companies to rip you off. ******Very Well Said**** Yo-zuri has a breaking strength that is almost twice that of what it is rated. If the exra diameter is bothering you, get one with the same diameter and the yo-zuri will still be stronger. Plus, I believe it is more abrasion resistant. Yo-zuri, for the price has many good attributes to it. Keep testing it, if you can deal with the little bit extra memory I am sure you will appreciate that extra strength when pitching and flipping at some point and time.

I like what both of you guys are saying! That seems like a good implementation of this strategy and ideology that could be easily applied. The single tailed grubs I used have had success as well as the twin tailed, but the rage tailed craws kinda act like those as well and have a ton of those rage tails right now. I also use the single tail grub on a spinnerbait which has worked well, but now I find myself using a hyperworm and a zoom split tail. I used to use 3/8oz spinnerbaits now I find myself using the heavier 5/8 and 3/4 oz bought a few from northstar (new gill, white, and white/chartreuse). I am digressing, I will go with the grub on 1/4 oz and some 3/8 and the other 3/8 and heavier will get a swimbait and see how well I do. Just when I am swimming them though. Otherwise it is Baby and Regular rage craw and paca craws/chunks for other techniques. Thank you both for the idea it is simplifying things for me. Now that is what I call direct information right there.Thank you so much, that is pretty envious that you got the chance to fish with Mr. Allen himself! If he, Glenn, or Big-O wanted to go fishing with me I'd be there. Especially Glenn have you seen his vids? He's got game. Once again I am digressing. I appreciate you sharing that information with me. it is his invented technique as far as I know and if he is using the keitech for lighter weights I could see myself downsizing with that swimbait as well. Can't thank you enough, I really appreciate it Steve.

I do see you preference for the electronic system. That does seem nice for trolling, I am young enough to not be picky I guess. Sounds like you got a tough job. I am with you, I would rather be standing up and fishing I feel more can be accomplished this way and I would be more ready. The owner contacted me again after me not responding to him for a couple days. I am trying to figure out if it is a shady deal, or if this guy just needs the money for other purposes and a boat isn't priority right now. The latter of the two is my hopeful scenario. I am not in love with the boat by any means, but if I can get a "glasser" for $800-$1000 that doesn't end up being a money-pit I would be thoroughly satisfied. Since all I am really looking to do is get out there and fish effectively and to be able to do so on a consistent basis. I get jealous of you guys who make it out there 50+ days a year. I went fishing maybe 20, and not with good results that I see many of the people onhere having. A boat like this should be able to allow me to get out more and practice and get better and more importantly have fun. Having to sit in a spot anchored down sucks. Trolling around with freedom at many different lakes sounds enjoyable and is enviable at the moment.

Hang you from a tree? That's funny. My evaluation of your post is that the advantages are outweighed by the disadvatages and there are better lines to use. The OP asked a question regarding advantages to fluoro. As in, are there any advantages to using fluorocarbon. Sure there are advantages to using fluorocarbon. 1.) It is denser so it sinks (helps baits fall quicker, gets cranks down quicker, etc) 2.) Slack line sensitivity is better than all other lines. Many techniques require one to perform the technique with a slack line, at least during some point during the cast, fall, retrieval process. Braid is the most sensitive line on a tight line. It is also dead when the line is not tight. Therefore, fluorocarbon the best sensitivity during slack line presentations. 3.) Invisibility, the lines refractive properties are that closest to water's. Therefore, is the most invisible line via sight in water. Remember there are other line detection techniques used by fish other than sight such as the pressure the line creates as it sifts through the water etc. I feel a denser line would also cause smoother movement through water, but that's just a theory of density and it having a higher affinity to sift through water at higher densities. At some level this invisibility does matter, there are debates about it, but most will agree there are finicky fish that will avoid visible line under certain conditions. Many braid users also use a leader, because of braids visibility which supports my point. (also used so you can break off the bait/line and not lose a lot of line during the process) Those are the main advantages I personally note in association with fluorocarbon. I am not going to list disadvantages, because most have already been discussed. Furthermore, when purchasing fluorocarbon you get what you pay for and it is more difficult to use in general. You must tie neat knots and pay attention to the condition of your line. If you buy cheap fluorocarbon I can almost guarantee you that you will not like it. Braid and yozuri are cheaper and easier to manage and are great lines to use as well. The tight line sensitivity of braid makes cheaper rods feel very sensitive. Using high end rods with high end fluoro is optimal to use in my opinion. I have easily enough sensitivity to detect bottom structure and pickups on a tight line and also have plenty of sensitivity on slack line as well. I actually get most my strikes when the line goes semi-slack. So that is my personal favorite for jigs/t-rigs on a high end rod. Let me say that it has taken a great deal of experimenting, discussion and money to get to the point where I am at now. I use both braid and flurocarbon and feel they both have their uses on different applications. For reference I have tried powerpro, suffix 832, and daiwa samurai braid. Yo-zuri hybrid 12#. Trilene 100%, Sunline FC Sniper, Seaguar Tatsu, Sunline Shooter fluorocarbon. I'm currently trying to figure out which fluorocarbon is best for me between shooter and tatsu. If you add the price of all the fluorocarbons I bought up it is not cheap. Hence my point of fluorocarbon experimentation. I prefer Daiwa Samurai braid if you are wondering Good Luck!

I will see if I can find one willing to go down with me. Thanks Sam and Jason. Well the cheapest I can get it for is obviously the best for me. If the guys financial situation is not well, I feel his pain, but that might allow me to get a good deal on the boat too. I was more asking the price to see how low a reasonable offer would be on the boat. So this style trolling motor has to be used while sitting down on the front chair? What style do you use and how does it differ as far as ergonomics and use? It is not a deal-breaker, but I would prefer to stand while casting and fishing. Like standing and moving close to a dock or some cover and skipping underneath it or into it and multiple points. Thanks Shady!....That is very interesting, he must have trouble selling it at some point. Having it listed for 300 more is strange. I can certainly use the information you provided and point that out to haggle with the price. I do have a smartphone, I will download the CL App and see how it works for me. There are often deals on CL for many different items so I check it often. Yeah I found the other listing right here http://kalamazoo.craigslist.org/boa/3271847751.html He said its a 3 day price? Whatever that means, if he was willing to sell it at 1600 at one time a week ago, I feel it would be legitimate at lower than $1600 now that it has been up for close to two weeks and has yet to sell. As mentioned earlier, it is not a good time to sell boats in Michigan right now due to the upcoming winter. So I would have the upper hand on the negotiation especially if he is desperate. How much would it cost to get a cover for a boat like this? I dont think there is one.

Very nice boat Nitro! I know you put some time into it, but I would take it off your hands for $500 The shape of the interior is not a huge concern for me. I know it is ridiculously expensive to have to replace all the carpeting and give it a new paint job, but ergonomics is my #1 concern. I just want to fish!! and I feel the condition of the interior is a good way to barter the price down. What do you think this boat is ultimately worth? "http://cgi.ebay.com/...1#ht_500wt_1182" Are those fish finders any good? The Hummingbird 160 and 540? And how about the trolling motor with the new battery, any comments on that? The boat seems like it could be a good fit for the right price. Or is the shape of this boat not going to be comfortable to fish from? Also, I do not see a great place for my girlfriend to lay out and tan..... Okay I am going to make an assumption about your post right about mine. The boat I am questioning is considered a "glasser" and is 'v-hull' because of that shape in the front?

I believe his 7' mh rod is a St. Croix MOJO Bass. Not even close to as good as the avid, but aren't those heavier than they are rated too? I know my St. Croix LTB that is a MH is closer to a H. If it were me in that situation I would get rid of the MOJO and get the avid you mentioned, but he is talking about getting a new rod. The St. Croix Avid rods are very nice, and the one Jeff mentioned would be good even if you already have the MOJO. It will be noticeably better than the MOJO and I am being conservative with my judgement when I say so.

^^^^^ Good job Diggy! Diggie's video he posted is consistent with reviews that I have read. Their actions are not as fast as other Powell's offerings. For example, an extra fast action on a powell max is faster than an XF on a Powell Diesel. Besides that, I have only heard good things and I wouldn't let the no warranty thing scare you. Replacing a $70 rod through warranty is pointless once you encounter the time and money spent dealing with Customer Service. Shipping the broken rod, getting it shipped back, etc.

*******Excellent Post Jeff***** I couldn't agree more.