War Eagle 44

Although I've just started using 832 myself I do find the Ghost very easy to see. I've only tried two colors, the aforementioned Ghost and the dark green. Since you don't like yellow then I'd suggest the Ghost. I'm sure the Lime Green would be very easy to see as well but maybe the Ghost would be a little less visible under water. The Ghost was more limp straight out of the box than the green color, though it only took one outing for the green to "break in" nicely. Both lines were 50# test. I'd suggest going with 50# for fishing around all that wood, possibly even 65# if you think you can get away with it.

Yeah, they pay them.

I agree with the other posters ahead of me that you will limit yourself somewhat by just using one type of line. Having said that, if I were going to do this I would use P-Line CXX. The majority of my reels are filled with braid these days but I don't think I'd chose braid if I were only going to use one line type. I still use CXX for all my crankbaits and A-Rig fishing. I almost always run a leader when fishing t-rigs or jigs and lately I've been using nothing but CXX for those as well. I've had good success using fluoro leaders to but I feel I get much better abrasion resistance and strength from CXX than fluoro. I give a up a little sensitivity using CXX over fluoro but not much.

I'm not sure if 832 is a difficult braid to fish frogs with or not as I haven't been out since spooling up my reels with it a few days ago. I want to say that it isn't the cause of your current problem because this is a very popular braid and I think we'd hear more complaints if the line were at fault, although as I said I can't be sure as I've yet to fish 832. I've used quite a few different braids with top water frogs over the years and I've not really had much problem out of them. P-Line Spectrex and Power Pro are for all practical purposes the same line and both work very well with frogs. Sufix Performance is another very good line that I've had no trouble walking the frog with. Power Pro Super 8 Slick was by far my favorite braid (until very recently) and it works very well for this technique. I've recently started fishing SunLine FX2 on one rod and it seems to be a really nice froggin' braid, possibly the best I've tried to date. I named all those lines just to help me make my point, I've successfully been able to get good side to side walking action using all of them so my best suggestion to you at this point in time is to just keep practicing. You'll get it, it took me a while to be able to get the action out of them that I wanted as well. Just an FYI, I think the R2S Spittin' Wa 70 is the easiest frog I've ever fished to get great walk the dog action out of but the Bronzeye Shad comes in a pretty close second so you have the right bait to learn with, just keep at it and it'll definitely be worth it in the end.

You have to leave a little slack in your line before each rod snap so the lure has free range of motion. Also if you aren't using braid you should be.

I've been out 4 times with the Bronzeye Shad so far and I'm really liking them. It isn't a big surprise though as I'm a frog junkie. They have a totally different action from the Bronzeye frogs, and they also sit in the water deeper. They use the same hook but in the shad it has lead molded around the shank close to the nose of the bait for counter balancing unlike the un-weighted hook used in the frog. They're also slightly smaller than the 65, I'd say in between it and the Jr. They cast great, are really easy to walk and they have a nice wide gliding action when you want them to. It's also very easy to get them to walk fast with a tight zig zag pattern. I've caught a few fish on them already, they were getting more bites than a frog yesterday as I tried them both almost equally. I also had a little misfortune whilst fishing one of the first baits I received but I already started a thread about that so I won't go into it again here except to say it convinced a big fish to eat it so they do work. I received 5 more today in the color I lost, Spooky Shad, it's my favorite so far out of the three colors I have.

I really like to flip and I also use 65# for this type of fishing so I'm with him at least that far. I'd never lock my drag like he has, I can get mine plenty tight with just my hand so I don't see the need in what he's doing there. I will add though that he does win quite a few local tournaments so it at least works for him. I think some of the reason he breaks off as much as he does is because he likes to use what he calls a "slack set". He told me that when he gets a bite instead of bowing his rod a little and reeling up the slack he just immediately drops his tip all the way to the top of the grass and then swings upward as hard as he can with all that slack still in the line. I don't understand why but like I said he wins his share of local tournaments.

An older gentleman that works at my local small town tackle shop told me he had broken S8S 65# quite a few times while flipping. He relayed this news to me back in the summer when I was in and purchasing a spool of S8S 65# for my flipping and frogging rods. He asked what I intended to use this line for, when I told him he reported his misfortune and tried to steer me in the direction of what he uses which is some style (I can't remember which one) of SpiderWire. He said he'd broken most major brands of braid over the years except this one. He likes to try out new lines just like the rest of us but always goes back to the SpiderWire. Incidentally I remember asking him had he tried Sufix braid, either flavor PB or 832, and he said no. I asked him about P-Line and he said yes and that he had broken it as well. He also told me he had broken every other style braid that SpiderWire makes except this particular one, whatever it was, I really really wish I could remember now. He uses a really old Lamiglas flipping stick that is stiffer than any flipping stick I've ever held, I was shocked when he let me play around with it. He was using a Revo reel and told me he locked the drag with pliers. I thought he was just full of BS since I'd been flipping a few months with S8S and hadn't had the first hiccup. Then I began to read more and more reports about it breaking on the web. Who knows, maybe it isn't any better or worse than 99% of braid out there it's just reported on more because it's Power Pro??

I agree with a lot of what you said, trying things for yourself is sometimes the best way to get accurate info. As you said try different things until you find something that works well for you. I'm sure this is a gross over reaction on my part to totally abandon a line after only one problem.

I read that test as well, and while I usually go along with most of TT's findings this one was against the grain from a lot of other things I'd read about this line. I have a fishing mag from either late last year or the early part of this year that has a braid test in it and they found the exact opposite about 832. They noted it as the most abrasion resistant line they tested. I can't remember which one it was, maybe In-Fisherman. I'll try and find it. Either way it's to late for me to change my mind, I ordered $92.00 worth of 832 so that's the line I'll be fish for the foreseeable future. Suppose to be here Tuesday.

This is the line I ended up going with, 20# Ghost for my spinning reel, 50 & 65# Green for my baitcasters. Suppose to be in on Tuesday. I understand the "not winning them all" aspect of the sport but I just can't put in to words how easy and quickly it was able to fray and cut my line. It's not so much that I lost that fish that I feel the need to change lines it's the fact that I don't feel I even had a chance of landing it. Even if I was using a different line and in the same situation I would have been much more inclined to chalk it up to " you win some you lose some" if the line had taken a little more time and effort to break. I'm just completely amazed at the speed in which this line went from perfect to frayed beyond belief. Bottom line I just have zero faith in S8S right now so for the sake of peace of mind I'm changing brands. I may not be any better off with 832 but at least I'll feel better about it for a while. Sufix Performance braid is 8 strand starting with 50# and up. I agree that Sufix PB is good stuff, I used it some time ago without any trouble, I switched to P-Line braid because I could get it locally but not the Sufix. Now I can't get either locally, closest place that has 832 & PB is about 30 miles from me. I decided on 832 because I've read lots of posts on different forums about it being pretty abrasion resistant as far as braid goes. Guess I'll find out soon enough. Thanks for everyone's help.

I know there isn't a "magic" braid, I simply asked if anyone knew if there was one that was more abrasion resistant than S8S. I didn't ask if there was an abrasion proof braid. I don't worry about losing lures either, my biggest complaint was the same as yours, I can't get the Bronzeye Shad locally so I had to order more. I think I'm set for a few days anyway, I ordered five in the color I lost.

That's my mistake!

I've just recently started using FX2 60# Blue/Green on one rod just to give it a sort of "test run". So far I've liked everything about it except for how rough it feels in hand. For all I know that "rough" feeling is what helps make it more abrasion resistant. I may chose to go with FX2 in the future but as for this time I went with 832, the deciding factor being I can get it fairly locally. There's a BPS about 30 minutes from me so it isn't hard for me to get my hands on some fast if I really needed to. I've had a spool of 832 Ghost 50# for a few months now but I just haven't gotten around to fishing it yet so I really know more about the FX2 with the limited time I've spent fishing it so far but I just liked the way the 832 felt in hand a little better as well. Hopefully it will be a bit more forgiving if I'm ever in the same situation as yesterday. Only time will tell I guess, and the fact that no braid is great around rocks. The more I've thought about the situation the more I'm thinking that it was actually the tree that did most of the damage to the line. No way I'll ever know for sure but you guys know how it is when you lose a big fish, it sticks with you a while. Thanks for everyone's help.

I understand that braid and rocks don't mix, but I'll never use anything but braid for frogs. I guess I was really asking which braid does everyone think is more abrasion resistant. I can't describe how easy it felt for that fish to break/cut the S8S. As I mentioned earlier in the video that was posted it appeared as if the Sufix he tested after the S8S had much better resistance to being cut. I'm still trying to decide which way I'm going to go, I have to decide quickly though as I'm placing my order in the am.

As the title says I had an unfortunate incident on the water this afternoon. I received my Bronzeye Shads before leaving for the lake this morning so I was really excited to try them out. I rigged one on my normal froggin' setup, Citica 201E Powell Max 735C and 65# PPS8S green, and headed for my favorite section of the lake. Caught a small one, about 1-3/4 to 2 pounds, on my third cast. Great, looking like it's going to be a fantastic day out. Over the next hour I caught one more and had a few short strikers, then it happened... The spot had 3 different cover types; rock, wood, and grass so I couldn't pass it up without a few casts. I made a nice cast that would put me in contact with two of the three cover types during the retrieve. The bait came through the grass well and into a small pocket where a limb from the fallen tree was sticking out of the water. I worked the bait I think 3 times fast, paused then gave it 2 additional snaps and a pause. On this second pause a huge spot blasted the bait and went immediately under the limb, I set as soon as I could but I didn't even turn it's head. It went straight down under the limb into the rocks and broke me off like it was nothing. Needless to say it ruined my day, not only did I just lose a bait I'd only had for a couple of hours but I possibly lost the biggest spot I've had the opportunity to catch. I'm sure some of you guys know that I've been one of S8S's biggest fans and supporters up until this point as I'd never had a single problem with it whatsoever. I've never broken a fish off on any brand of braid 50# test or heavier so I felt very confident that the 65# was overkill. My line was nicked and cut in many many places and this whole ordeal only lasted maybe 5 seconds. So after having this happen to me coupled with the vid a guy posted a few weeks back showing how easily S8S was to cut on a rock I'm now in the market for a new brand of braid. I've narrowed my choices down to two; SunLine FX2 or Sufix 832. Keep in mind this is strictly for froggin', which of these two would you guys fish? Here's a few pics of the frayed and broken S8S, I tried to get just how badly this line was cut up but I just couldn't do it justice. It's much worse in hand, and yes that's how the end of the line came out of the water, all curled like that.

I'm lazy so I too always fish seated while on my boat. I don't have any problems flipping or pitching while sitting so I can't really relate to you on that point. I have however experienced the same frustration with beaver baits fished like a traditional texas rigged worm. I've found a "solution" to this problem, a shakeyhead. Now I'm not really sure why but a smallie beaver on a shakeyhead will flat out get bit. I've tried them t-rigged with the weight pegged in the same places with zero results. I'm not sure exactly what the subtle differences are in the way the bait is presented on a shakeyhead as opposed to a pegged texas weight but I am sure there are some. My best guess is the bait stands in a more natural position on a shakeyhead where as with the t-rig it's either straight up or on its side. Bottom line I'd suggest you try them on a shakeyhead in the same area's that you like to t-rig. Oh and for some reason, I'm sure it's probably just me, I have way more luck with the smallie beaver than the standard size on a shakeyhead.

Not a single thing in this post is even remotely correct. Very apparent you don't own or know ANYTHING about a 300 series Curado.

Infection and Greenpumpkin.

I'm partial to the Yellow Hammer brand.

I have some in transit, they were suppose to be here tomorrow but when I last checked they have been delayed until Monday now, UPS... figures.

There's quite a bit of difference actually, no sense in taking apart a brand new reel "just to see".

I agree and disagree with your statement. I agree that "walking" isn't the end all be all frog presentation but I disagree that it doesn't matter how you work it. I've had days where they would only bite if I was walking the bait and others where they wanted the straight ahead twitch, twitch, twitch pause presentation. Over the years though, thinking back on it, I think I've caught more fish with the twitch/pause presentation than walking. Both have their place IMO, but it certainly doesn't mean you can't catch plenty of frog fish just because you can't walk them. Walking works best to me around wood, just my opinion. I seem to get more bites around grass with the twitch/pause method. To be even more specific I think I get most grass bites when I twitch it fast 3 times, pause, then give it one additional forward twitch. These are all just my personal opinions and certainly not written in stone. I absolutely love frog fishing and talking frog fishing, great to read how others are catching them. I can always stand to learn something new about fishing with these awesome baits.

No, the 300 series has larger gears and therefore can not be switched with the gears from a 200. I use my 301E for all my A-Rig and big swimbait/swim jig duties and I love it. It isn't to fast at all in my opinion. I think after you fish it a few times you'll get acclimated to it and really like fishing with it as well. Even though it has a 6 ratio it is very powerful, no "stress" when fishing A-Rigs at all. Great reels.

I know what you mean, this rod will absolutely rocket a Bronzeye 65! In fact I can get great distance on the Jr's as well. I'm not sure of the official number because I don't fish Kopper's very much but I tried the smallest size in their line with this rod but it doesn't handle them well. To light to get any "loading" from the tip so that makes distance and especially accuracy drop way off. Don't get me wrong, it can fish those baits in a pinch, it just isn't the ideal rod for that small a frog. My favorite "toad" baits are the Gambler Cane Toads. They aren't as big or heavy as say the Rage Toad or Horny Toad so they don't cast quite as well but I find I can fish them much slower than any other toad bait I've tried and that seems to produce more bites for me. Also the Cane Toad has really big "feet" that catch a good bit of air when casting so this compounds the problem of maximum distance possible with them but I live with it due to my strike rate. My point here about toad baits is that this rod is able to deliver these type baits effectively as well. Especially the Rage Toad, that thing will cast a mile. I always fish my toad baits weightless so I'm relying solely on the weight of the bait (and hook obviously) to be sufficient to cast them. Always use the same hook as well, an Owner TwistLOCK Open Gap 3X in 5/0.