katmandew

. I used to think the same thing, but when you get blanked by your partner an he gets 5 bites on the Fluoro, it has to mean something. Situation was reversed in spring....I was using Fluoro with small swim baits and out fished him 8-2. He used copoly with smaller diameter line and the same small swim baits I was using. Maybe it depends on the day and how aggressive they are as well. In daylight I'm a believer in Fluoro now...just not sure how well they can see line in the dark.

The thing is we were fishing thick weeds with tx rigged soft plastics and of the bites we had, they all came just after we had pulled the bait free of the weed. Just as it was falling. Maybe rate of fall was the reason, maybe line bowing...but I'm curious if anyone knows if it could be that they can see the copoly at night where maybe the Fluoro, not so much?

Fishing gin clear water where Fluoro is noticeably getting more bites in daytime regardless if angler is in front or back of the boat. My question is not if fluro out fishes copoly or mono, but if it makes a difference at night? The past 2 nights in our boat, if u didn't fish Fluoro, you didn't get bit. Fluoro 8 fish - pline CX prem (with fluro coating) zero fish Even tho the CX had the coating, it didn't get bit until a Fluoro leader was tied on. Both setups used the same soft plastic bait in the same weed beds the whole time. Is fluro really making that much difference at night?

Great info. Thanks

What type areas do u target in summer ? Day or night?

What time of year is best to use the drop shot?

What about the Duckett's? Looking at these 2. Which would have the stiffer tip? For some reason, they don't list taper with these rods. DFMM70XH-C DFMM70H-C

I'm hoping to kill 2 birds with one stone here, but would like some suggestions. I can go for an upper end rod if needed, but if a mid grade rod will suffice, I'm not opposed to it. I want to be able to use one rod for hollow body frogs fished over thick weed mat flats. The weeds are coontail and are nearly 20 feet tall in places. Need the power in case a toad tries to take me deep into that stuff. Also would like to double this setup for pitching and flipping a jig or a soft plastic down into this weed mat and if possible use this rod for flipping and pitching moderate to heavy wood cover. Any suggestions to a rod that might do well in both situations?

Thanks. Green Mirror it is.

Just got the new 2013 DS Cumara in 7'2" M/XF. awesome rod and this line of Cumara is even more sensitive then last years model. Spooled with 10 lb braid and 8lb flourocarbon leader on a shimano Stradic FJ.

I'd go with the Stradic FJ. eBay $130-140 and IMO just as good as the CI-4. Just a little heavier. Bought 2 this year for dropshot and shakeyheads. Best spinning reel I ever owned. Been a Symmetre guy for long time but Stradic FJ is worth the extra money.

Suffix elite is pretty good line. Once I tried Izorline XXX, I switched tho. Best mono I've used. Lasts longer than Elite. Never used siege.

Why green? Also don't see any 580g's on eBay in green with amber tint.

Well dang it...something else I gotta hide from the wife...lol Think ill try the Costas. What color lens is best? I fish mostly clear water lakes. Light stain from time to time, but many times gin clear highland reservoirs.

What brand of glasses do you use? I don't want to spend $200 if I dont have to. Are the more expensive one's really worth it?

Is there any kind of signal interference to consider when running 2 sonar cones? I have a 17'4" boat, so that would be the distance between them. Any disadvantage in running them both at the same time?

Would like GPS up front for staying on spots/breaks. Does it really make that much difference having the transducer on the trolling motor vs using network sonar from the back transducer?

I have an HDS-8 Gen 2 with Insight HD at the console. I'm wanting an HDS-5 for the bow. Does anyone know if I were to buy the HDS-5m if it will share the sonar from the HDS-8? I have the LSS-1 Structure scan module connected to the HDS-8 via ethernet and 2 open ethernet ports on the LSS-1. If I connect the new 5m to the LSS-1, will I be able to view both sonar and structure scan on the HDS-5m? From what I've read it sounds like the 5m can pull from the HDS-8 transducer mounted on the transom through the LSS-1 via the ethernet connection. Is that the case? I'd like to avoid mounting another transducer and save a little money by not having to buy the full HDS-5 model.

I see what you are saying. Good points. I've always used the MHF on them, prob should switch back, but I tried it one night last week and lost 2 of 3 that I had on. Also talked with another angler and found out he was catching several in the tail. We think they could be coming up from under our plug and swiping at it and hitting it with their tail. Makes sense because if hooked in the tail they could easily roll that out. I think it's these fish that are coming off. Those that hit the plug with the mouth are the ones we are catching.

I just upgraded my unit from HDS-8 Gen 1 to HDS-8 Gen 2. I've been told the LSS-1 and LSS-2 box is exactly the same and that all I needed to do was upgrade my LSS transducer to the new one. Wondering if I will see that much of a difference? I can get the LSS-2 ducer for $250 and figured I could probably ebay my LSS-1 ducer for $100, so is it worth the $150 investment?

They don't roll on the hook set. They roll after. It's how they fight. They don't fight like a bass. Maybe northern walleye don't do that, but I've seen them rolling like a gar many times down here when you get them up to the top. The 5-6 lb and up will roll and roll hard. We can't grab them up under the gill down here. They are flat out mean and that gill plate will slice your hand like a razor blade when they go to flopping as you handle them. You better net them and use boga grips or gloves. Maybe it's because it's warmer here and they are not as lethargic, don't know. I've seen walleye videos made on northern lakes and they act like they are in a coma compared to how they act here. Maybe those are the fish you are describing. Those here are raised in hatcheries and stocked yearly because natural reproduction occurs at a very low rate in our lake. Maybe genetics plays a role as well. Who knows.

The puzzling thing is that I'm using a glass cb rod. Last year I wasn't and didn't have this problem, though I tried moving the bb1 to my old bionic blade mh/F and it didn't help, so went back to the glass rod. No problems with the bass, but the walleye are coming unbuttoned. They do seem to be hitting it lighter than usual this year so I hope that's all it is.

Maybe the softer hookset is my problem. I've had no problem with the bass. Havent lost any bass that has hit the same plug/rod/reel combo. Wondering if the hooks are even getting set into the walleye at all. They are not hitting it as hard as the bass are. I'm not swinging back with the rod. The walleye is hitting the plug then I feel him rolling. they don't use head turns like bass, they roll like a gar would and I think since the hook isn't getting buried, they are rolling it out.

Brand new plugs and even changed out hooks to new gamakatsu hooks. I don't use the factory hooks bandit puts on them. The bend too easily. The gamakatsu trebles don't do that. Hooks are sharp. Not worried about distance. How is the bb1 anti reverse supposed to help with hook ups?

The difference is the no instant anti-reverse on the bb1. I'm losing a lot of walleye this year and I can't tell what the problem is. I've always used a MH fast action rod with 12lb mono to crank deep runners for walleye. Never lost as many as I am losing is year. I tried going from a crank bait rod with moderate tip back to mh/fast rod, back to cb rod with Fluoro. Something still isn't right. Only difference left to look at is the reel. Last year I used a 6.4:1 reel with instant anti reverse. This year went to 5.1:1 Lews BB1. Thinking of trying the TP in a 5.1:1. Any opinions on how the TP in 5:1 handles deep cranks compared against the bb1? Would the instant anti reverse be causing bad hook ups?