gulfcaptain

A Mann's Baby 1-Minus, followed by a jig.

you can find an HDS 7 since you have the older units. I have a HDS 5 and a 7 in my cockpit. Use the 5 for GPS and the 7 for up and down right now, just haven't gotten the upgrade sonar box to add DSI/SSI to them. Then I'l add another 7" HDS to the bow to go with the 7" Elite Chrip I have up there. When I have the money to do so though, just not right now.

But that's not how it came across....lol This is a better statement though of why you feel that way. When I bought mine I made them take the motor off the boat and put 3M's 4200 Marine Adhesive on the transom mounts as I feel sillycone is not the proper sealant for that and since it's going through the transom, I want the best sealer I can (and still be able to remove the bolts when needed) to make sure I don't get any water leaking through.

If you have two units together, run one on side scan/down scan and the other on GPS and regular up/down. Then you have all the info you need on both screens (if they are both in the cockpit.)

You still want to make sure your motor is up to par. Nothing will ruin your day quicker then your big motor quiting on you. As for the other, do you homework and research what you're wanting before you go buy anything. I'd say at least a 24v trolling motor and a min of 80lbs to start. As for electronics, look around and find what you want.

That's why I'd like to see the up and down color meter screen. It might be bait, but I can't say that for sure without seeing a up and down pic.

It's gonna be old by Summer....lol

PM Wayne P and see what he thinks, he's pretty good with the electronics. Look around at some of his posts and replies, he may be able to give you some other insight I'm missing or overlooked.

As long as it's solid. It's a $1000 boat. Don't worry about the paint/gel coat, make sure your motor is solid and free of issues and have the electronics and trolling motor you want. Then go fishing.

Nice boat. But as long as you take care of the boat properly, then it will last. Wood isn't the problem, moisture is. I've ran charterboats out here that are 40+ years old (glass and plywood) and as long as they are maintained they last a long time. We all have our own opinions on what's right and wrong. I've seen wood/glass boats last longer then Aluminum boats.

Well if it's a shallow point off of a river with current hitting it, then it could be silt coming off the point. Without really looking at where you were in real time it's tough to see. Another question, how many units are you running? Do you have 2 transducers running two units?

So what kind of boat do you have if I may ask?

yes, your regular color up and down. May see how that picks up and what it looks like. Was the water really muddy? That can sometimes cause false readings if the gain is too high.

What's the color picture(standard up/down) look like? I'd like to see the 200k pic and could better tell you.

If you're happy with it and are willing to put in the work to get it where you want, a boat is just the platform to fish from.

How it's reading you may be getting some cavitation around your transducer causing you to get that false reading. Check and see if it's in a spot where that may be occuring.

Okay, older boats have wood in the transoms to renforce them as so they solid. Most bass boats have decks made of plywood (marine grade). Very generalized statement and ill informed one as well. The use of marine grade plywood in decks saves on costs as well. And if I'm not mistaken, most boats use some sort of wood for stringers also

That's much better.....lol

Looks like an underwater point with a hard bottom, I'd say gravel but based on your location it could be mussels of some sort. As for your gps, had you just come off plane and slowed down or were you already traveling that slow? I'm assuming you're wondering about the depth reading.

Why would they patch a fiberglass boat with concrete? Um that would be a big concern to me because concrete doesn't flex and fiberglass does. As for your paint job, odds are your gelcoat is pretty much gone so there probably isn't much you can do to bring it back. You could spray it with a marine acrylic paint or get it wrapped. But I'm sitll wondering and iffy on the concrete patches......not the right way to fix a fiberglass boat......cheap and bassackwards, but not right. Welcome to boat ownership....you should understand what boat stands for if you haven't already. Bust Out Another Thousand

I've used the 5" cut down as well as a little off the 4" Swiming Senko, and have put a small drop of glue on the trailer to keep it up on the jig and make it last a bit longer. Also may try the Swiming Flukes as a trailer or a standard Fluke also works well.

I was going to fish this as well as a co with my buddy who's fishing the pro side. I'd say dropshot, shakeyhead, darterhead, and small swimbaits (3-4" Kietech style). I'd also bring some small hair jigs in say 1/8 to 3/16 and some smaller underspins as well. Good luck, and also remember, pack your rain gear for the morning runs. Maybe I'll see you at the other two events later this year.

This ^^^ except I fish 30 or 40lb braid. Fish a 7'3"H Fast action, but if I'm fishing the 90 size, then I fish a 7'3"M Fast action. Both with a reel that has a 26-28 IPT pick up.

Way different, but it's got a sound and it gets crushed. Sometimes they want it burned, other times stop and go, then sometimes slow, but when they commit, they commit.

I used to back reel, but the reels I have now don't have that option so using the drag is the only option and when using smaller hooks with braid and lighter FC, a light drag helps not pull the hook or brake them off. But I understand your point as well. It does come in handly.