gulfcaptain

Just a thought, but BPS has their Graphite Musky Series (new models for this year) and they have a 7' rod which would probably work better for you fishing out of a kayak....retails at $49.99. I have two of the older models and use them to throw Hudds and Line Thru's on so that may be an option and a little shorter rod as well for your kayak fishing.

One lure, one color, one size, and fish forever?.......what am I going to do with the other 25 rods?

One thing you must think of if you choose to use a boat and not kayaks, you can not take people out for hire without a USCG issued license (6pack uninspected vessel). So if being a guide is what you want to do, make sure you take the right steps and get the proper documents to operate a boat for hire business carrying paying passengers. Not sure you need it to guide out of a kayak where they have their own equipment but do know you need it out of a boat for sure.

Everything stated above. Also look at the trailer. Does it need work? Is it single or tandem axel. Ask if you can take it for a test run prior to buying. I don't think any of us would buy a car without first test driving. Check hardware on the deck hatches, how many hrs are on the motor, and service records.

I personally fish 30-40lb braid, 40 being the heaviest I fish. Most fish 50lb due to the size factor since it's comparable to 12lb and they believe that if you use lighter braid then it will dig into the spool. I have had no issues pulling fish out of cover using 30lb both frog fishing and punching, but some think it's a bit light. Back to the OP's question, either one will work. 832 is a 8 strand braid, where PP is a 4. Once worn in either will do what you ask. 832 does fade faster then PP does. Just as a side note, I've been really impressed with P-Line's TCB and TCB-8 braid.

What size baits are you looking to throw?

Might also look into some tungsten jigs just incase you find yourself in this situation again. You can go to a smaller profile with the same weight as well as get a heavier jig in the same size. I'm thinking the wind probably had a lot to do with it. The bait may have been moving more then the day before causing the fish to grab the claws which you felt but with the boat moving you could have been unknowinly pulling the bait away causing them to only get the claws instead of the whole jig.

Fish a more compact jig and trailer. I fish the trailers on my jigs just long enough to where the claws are coming out behind the skirt of the jig. That way if they pick it up they get the whole jig. So I'd have one rigged like you have it, have another of the same jig with a smaller trailer(using the Lobster, go down a size.) If that doesn't work downsize the jig and find a compact bait (I fish a lot of Bass Patrol jigs) and put a 3" trailer on them. I've had to drop all the way down to a 1/4oz jig and a Tiny Paca Chunk at times to get bit. If you have too much claw, just need to feed them more jig.

I've never had a problem with that little kink in the line. Normally after a cast or two it goes away. I try and keep my leaders short enough to where it doesn't hit the top guide when I put it in the rod sock. But I agree, if it's going to be a long time inbetween trips, better off just accepting you're going to have to respool or fish braid and put a new leader on when it's time to go fishing.

Read about seasonal patterns. Check water temps. How are the fish biting when you do get one. Watch for birds, bait, Enviormental factors. Did I mention read about any and everything.

I normally try and find some cheap 12 to 15lb mono and use that for backing. I want something I can pack on and that size mono works great especially if you're using braid over the top. And I always splice into my backing, never a cheap knot. Just incase, I know if I hook something and it gets that far into my reel I'm pretty screwed once I get to that mono, but it's still a shot if you have it connected with a nice splice and may give you that extra 20-50yrds to gain control of the fish and get your line back on the reel.

Mend-It is a great product as you can tell by the other posts. It will not work with Zman baits though, but then again, you can't wear them baits out anyways. But I've used it to repair Hudds, make new baits, and repair them. Be aware, this isn't a glue, it melts them back together so if you have rips apply, let sit. Then flip over and apply again. If you pull on it while applying you will have issues with it melting and becoming worse. But it is a great product and always have a bottle with me. Plus it doesn't stick to your fingers.

I have a few of their rods (older Crankin Stick, older Bionic Blade, and couple Tournament series and a few discontiuned Graphite Musky Rods that I still use for my large swimbaits) as well as a few of the Extreme Reels from 2012 and 4 of the Black Carbonlite reels (all baitcast). As for the reels, I'd say the higer up stuff is great. I have swapped most of my equipment to EXO's and Concepts, but I still use all 4 of my Carbonlites, and still use the rods without any issues.

I've seen deals like that on there. $60 cheaper until you see the $59.99 shipping cost. But good marking gimmick. I guess for 19.99 shipping standard ground isn't gonna cut it for most....lol

Gear Ratio is how many revolutions of the spool to each revolution of the handle. So if you have a 5.1 reel, 1 turn of the handle turns/rotates the spool 5 times. Lower ratio's normally pick up less line and are easier to turn high resistance baits (deep diving crankbaits and big spinnerbaits) and higher gear ratios pick up more line. Thats where the IPT come into play as some 7.1 reels may have the same IPT as a 6:4.1. Rods were covered pretty much in the post prior. Hope this helps.

DIMMIT!!! I'll just have to sell mine for $19.49 w free shipping.....lol

I like a MH moderate action on squarebills, and I like a MH medium fast action on lipless baits especially if you're ripping them out of grass. Can get away with a moderate action like the 7'M Bucoo you have for smaller 1/4oz traps, but the 1/2oz you're not going to be able to clear if you get any weeds. But most of it's personal preference and what you find that fits your style of fishing best.

Guess I'll have to buy all the jars I can and then sell them later at 3x the price as vintage pork trailers......lol

Ebay. I wouldn't do retail on eiher one. You can find them much cheaper there right now if you look. Those prices were the "buy now".

I'll throw it out there just because, why don't you get yourself a Quantum EXO. Can find them for around $150, or if you like the TourMg100 which can be had if you look for right about $210 where both the EXO 100 retails at $249 and the TourMg at $289. Both solid reels and very light. I have both. If you get the TourMg, go with the 7.1, same IPT as the 6:6.1 EXO 100.

Let this go, Bluebasser already posted a warning. Keep it up and it's going to get locked down as it's not part of the OP's question.

I fish braid on all of them. Mostly 30lb, but some have 20 and 40. I adjust each for what I'm doing with leaders of either FC or Mono. So it costs me in braid, but I only have to buy one spool of each 6-17lb in FC and a couple spools of 10, 12, 20lb mono. Easier to replace 6ft of mono or FC then to respool 75-100yrds and a lot less in the pocket book. Just my opinion though.

I fish a 6:4.1 most of the time. Once you get used to feeling the kick of the bait and vibrations, you will learn how to tell when it's fouled or a fish misses. It's a great little shallow cranking rod.

I have 2(of these rods) with different gear ratio reels. Always have a Manns Baby 1 Minus tied on(spring through fall) or a small 3-4" paddletail with a 1/4oz underspin head. Also great for inline spinners such as 1/4oz Roostertails and as suggested above 1/4 oz traps are great on these as well. Also carry 3 other cranking set ups as well.

What kind of baits? You may be getting some line twist depending on what you're using. Read that wrong, if it comes out after catching a few, it sounds like when the rods sit for a few weeks the line sets and you get the issue. I'm not sure if you have a way of dragging it to straighten it (if from a boat you can let it out and once you get most of it out wind it back in) in some way. Then a bit of line conditioner as well afterwards.