gulfcaptain

I work on the water and have more respect for it then a lot of "weekend warriors". Not saying that all do not respect the water, but I have friends that take a 16ft center console 20+miles out off of S. Cal. I've been in his boat and honestly he doesn't have enought boat to fish when the wind kicks up and it's 2-3ft chop. No free board, more of a flats boat. My son wants me to get a boat and as much as I would love a bass boat, the safety of my boys and myself I would rather have a 17-19ft deep V Muti-speicies rig aluminum boat that can take a bit more weather. And I would only be wanting to fish near shore and in the harbor (less then 3mi out). And speed is a nice thing to have, but when it's rough you don't have the speed, and in a bass boat as you're taking waves constantly over the bow sitting in a pool of water running 6knots because you get caught with your pants down, wondering if you're going to make it back to shore safely, ask yourself that when you are choosing your boat for the body of water you're going to fish. The Great Lakes are freshwater, but I would refer to them as INLAND SEAS. I'd rather be overgunned and over prepared then undergunned, not to mention you get caught out in a bass boat in heavy weather, you may make it back in but may have structual damage to your boat that will lead to costly repairs. Guess I'm trying to say is make safety the most important part of your desicion when you decide to buy your boat.

first off, I'd ask where you're fishing (lakes/rivers/ponds), then where you're located regionally to get a better idea.

No problem, asking questions on here gives you answers from several people, mind it they may be different and be debated but that's what these forums are for.

Um heat is the enemy of mono, so if you boil it you weaken the line. Mono has memory, when it sets in it's time to change it. $12.00 for 1000 yards, so it runs you about a $1.20 per refill if that depending on how much you take off. And you need to have the line come off the spool and go on the reel the same way or it will not lay right. If you fish from a boat you can also let it out and drag it behind the boat (without anything on it). This will straighten it out as well as let you repack it onto the reel. Mono is cheap, keep it fresh because you never know when that fish of a lifetime is going to bite and the only thing between the two of you is that line.....is a $1.20 worth the risk of what may be the biggest bass you have ever caught?

Wow how this topic has turned...never new bass had exhaust ports.....must be the upgraded model. Bet the duel exhaust bass are really fast swimmers.

I purchased one of these, it's got a pronounced side to side wobble, so not real suttle like to original floater. So as far as my opinion on it, it gives you a slinder wake bait but the same pronounced side to side wobble.

Ordered two of them from Persuader for just that reason. Watched bass at some of the ponds I fish pick them cute balls of fluff off. They want nothing to do with anything else and are commited to the ducklings just like they do when they stock trout. They sit about 15ft off the bank facing the few spots the ducklings can get in and out of and wait patiently. Then a boil, and no more baby duck, just the mother duck upset looking for her baby. Nature is cruel but awesome. I Can't wait to fish the Persuader baby duckling next spring and see what happens.

The older Accurists are great, have 2 of them in both gear ratio's as well as 2 Kinetics. Honestly, my opinion on BPS reels, the PQ is a nice reel, but I prefer the Carbonlites (all were purchased on sale when they dropped to $99). I have 4 of them. And the *** is about the $180 price, purchased the C for $210 (on sale) and honestly there really isn't much difference between them. Purchase almost all my reels on sale or save up and then get them. I am a firm believer it isn't the price of the tackle you use that catches the fish, it's the fisherman. For 2 years I fished a H20 rod and reel (reel was $79 and the rod 60) and still use them. Had no problem outfishing my friends with their higher dollar Shimano's, Diawa's, Fenwicks, etc....

I was a Diawa, BPS, and Quantum fisherman, then tried 13's concepts this summer and they have blown away the others.

Well all my baitcasters are spooled with either 15, 20, or 30lb power pro or 832. From there it's a matter of what I'm fishing, then adjusting and either putting a topshot of mono (10-14lb) or FC (10 or 12). The med action rods I fish I throw cranks, topwaters, blade, buzz, and spinnerbaits.

Tom, you pobably have forgotten more then I will ever know. As someone else stated, it's always an eye opener when you post as you bring lots of knowledge and facts as well as some of the history in the bass fishing world lots of us never even new about. Thank you.

#1....what am I going to use it for. #2....what gear ratio do I want #3.....what is the wieght of the reel #4.....Drag #5.....cost #6.....brand (as long as it doesn't say Shimano, Lews, or Abu) j/k these are great products, just don't prefer not to fish them.

If it doesn't feel right, I swing. Like most say, "swings are free". Fishing and punching grass, line watching, weight of the lure, and even the occasional tap let me know. But I think 95% of the fish I caught this year fishing grass I never felt a tap just a change in weight or the line just twitched. I do love the few bites where they tried to rip the rod out of my hand as they swim off with my jig. So I may swing often, but hey odds are if it doesn't feel right then it's probably a bite.

I'm with Catt, 15-20yrds is a good range for pitching. It's about accuracy and the amount of targets, not the distance. I don't know many places I'm going to pitch a bait 45+feet away. That distance your accuracy isn't going to be as good with a pitch opposed to a softer role cast.

yes, that would work and Big Game isn't bad mono either. Caught A LOT of fish on that line both in fresh and salt.

I used to talk to myself, now I have just come to terms and agree with the voices in my head. Much easer then arguing with myself on which rod, reel, or bait to buy.

The 7'3" M Black *** is a great rod, as stated above, up to 1/4 to 3/8 on the finesse jig would be fine. Also like fishing the Falcon Bucco 7'MH for this and have had great success with the H20 brand 7'MH.

LOL, hey if it's over 8lbs, 99.9% sure it's gonna be a female.

Very true, I have become a big believer and user of Mend-It, may let me get a few more fish per bait, This year think my ratio is about what you stated (5-1) in favor of soft baits, but then there were years I did better on wakebaits, cranks, and topwaters.

If you're casting on the grass, keep tension on the line as you reel in to keep it from getting sloppy and loose on the spool. When fishing this won't be such an issue but practicing in the yard it can be. Learn to feather your thumb on the spool as you cast. I don't think I even use the brakes and have my tension knobs loosened as much as possible without the spool being sloppy (too loose causing side to side play which can result in line getting between the spool and the frame. When casting, your rod is just as important as the reel. If you keep your lure tight to the tip you will end up with more backlashes then if you give yourself 2ft or more and use the rod and lure's weight to get it out there. This comes with time on when to release in your casting swing. I'm going to end up teaching my son how to cast and this is how I'm going to start out with him #1 Set the brakes about the half way mark. #2 Tension knob set to wear it slowly falls (yes slowly). This way if he casts too hard the spool will not explode into a nice beginners knot. #3 As he progresses slowly ease the tension knob as so the breaks are the main controller. The better he gets the looser the knob. Then work on backing of the breaks if you like to where you won't need them. This isn't going to happen right away, be patient and I would look into buying some 1/4 lb spools of 12lb to keep yourself spooled up with fresh line. If you start feeling bad spots from the occasional backlash, respool half or two thirds. And lastly, don't give up.

So if those who are wanting to eat the fish, simply keep the smaller fish IE 12-14inches depending on your states regs ofcourse and release all the rest over 2lbs unless it looks like its overly skinny or unhealthy. And only take enough for a meal instead of trying to fill the cooler. Throwing all the fish back depending on the body of water can be a bad thing. If there is an over abundant amount of smaller fish, then they need to be culled to improve the predator to forage ratio (normally an issue in ponds). Taking a few fish from a lake or pond normally isn't a problem, just do it smartly, larger fish should be returned to keep the quality fish in place and to keep a heathy breeding pool, same should go with panfishing. Those bigger fish should be left in place and keep the smaller medium sized fish. That way you keep the food for the bass as well as the breeding fish to keep supplying the food for them.

I don't know about cheaper then a hard bait. If you buy a crank for $6 and a pack of Senko's for $7-8. A great day of fishing your crank may have some scratches and look warn, but your Senko's are trashed, have fallen off, and all but gone so now you have to purchase another pack. I can honestly say the amount of money I have spent in soft baits over hard baits is probably 2 to 1.....and that is including those expensive $50+ swimbaits. So as far as way cheaper, I may have to disagree with that statement.

I use the shorter shank trebles and that normally keeps them from tangling and often go up in a size without an issue. But most hooks on cranks are either a #2, 4, or 6.

Make sure you have a backing of mono before you spool up your braid. Use whatever size you feel best using. I posted a question on here about why everyone fishes heavier braid and most match what size mono they normally fished. I have had no issues with braid as light as 15lb on a baitcaster. Normally fish 20-30lb braid (may use 40lb next year for fishing a frog) on most of my baitcasters and 10lb on my spinning rods. Don't think I have a single rod with straight mono or fc anymore. Lighten your drag some since there is no stretch. Most "damaged equipment" from fishing braid is caused by user error. Backing off the drag will help and will keep you from pulling the hook on fish. And use just a quicker hookset, the more you fish it the more you will become comfortable with how much presure you need to use. You will also find there is a huge difference in sensitivity. And always check your braid for wear, if you see some fraying or you think a knot doesn't look right, cut it off and retie. So with that said, buy yourself a pair of sissors to keep handy as well as your pliers. I have never damaged any guides from using braid so that's not even an issue.....more of a myth in my opinion. And if you use tungsten weights ALWAYS pay attention to your knot at the hook, I have had wieghts over 1/2 oz cut into the knot overtime while pitching grass end up failing due to the wieght hitting the knot(over a day of hard fishing).

Mustad's KVD 1x strong 2x Short Triple Grips, VMCs, and Gammy's.