NathanW

Awsome! You are in the same boat I was less than 5 years ago. Had no idea what I was catching, just knew they werent trout!! Now my life is wound around those little brown and green fish. Keep us posted when you catch your first 2 or 3 pounder. Its going to be thrilling!!

Got these on Saturday...both 2.25 lbs. No downsizing required all weekend as I hooked up with many fish that were dwarfed by this Zara Spook.

I have tried a few methods for softs but have never been satisfied. The binders rust and are not big enough. Plano dividers wont keep your baits straight. I currently store extras and less likely baits in original package in a large ProLatch without dividers while keeping the stuff I know ill use in front deck dry box so I can quickly grab it and slip into my pocket. Pretty sure Ill keep doing this for a little while Through all this...I have learned two things that work best for me. 1) keeping baits original package. 2) have 100% of baits I fish on-board. (I know this is not possible for everyone, but I keep color choice simple. Rememember it doesnt matter what color worm you chose, as long as its purple )

Hooligan, Do you size up your hooks on your pointer 78? I typically go up a size up to #5's but I have never really spent the time to anlyize if it changes the baits behavior/action?

I use a promarine on board 3 bank charger and completely dedicate my cranking battery to my motor. So I really cannot run it down too much. I use the Everstart maxx as my trolling motor battery. I get about 1.5 seasons out of each one and have found that in that price range nothing compares to the amp hours. My question is this. Are you guys running the MAXX combo or just pure cranking marine batteries? I had very bad luck with the Maxx combo batteries as crankers, tried two with same results from both, had some very sad times trolling several miles back to the ramp. My father-inlaw, who is a farmer and knows plenty about batteries tested both of them and neither one was charging to proper CCA levels. Pretty sure that Exide was the manufacturer back then though, not that it really matters because Johnson Controls is probably building them to the same specification. As soon as I bought the Optima I went just under 3 years without a no start. I am hesitant about buying a new Optima because they no longer sell them at Coscto for $150.00. Also, guys that are using Die Hards. How many seasons do you get? And I must have 100% trouble free because I mostly fish a river system. Would you say the Die Hards are trouble free, no-worries type of deal?

Wondering what kind of cranking batteries people are running these days in thier bass boats? I have had a Optima Blue Top that that may be failing me (I have not tested it yet but on Sunday I had my first no-start since I installed the thing midway through the 2010 season) Are there any descent Lead-Acid batteries under 150.00 that people are getting a couple years out of?? I never found luck with them as crankers but I was buying $90.00 Autozone/Everstart type stuff. Are Optimas still worth the price tag or do any well-versed electrical guys swear on another brand? Let me know.

Rapala Skitter Walk is the answer to your problem. Easy to cast and work on casting gear. No fairy wand required. The are just over 3". I really dont like the smaller sized spooks. They dont cast well, and seem to have junk stock hardware. I do have a spook tied on right now so nothing againts those guys.

I think that this just caters to the way i like to fish.... fast. Without a doubt you can work a hard jerkbait faster and it wont break the surface. But the bite on a hardbait always slows down when you lose chop, so I will slow way down and throw the fluke. Anywhere you catch em on a hard you can catch em on a soft I believe. But not the other way around. So yeah I agree with you completely that the fluke works in those situations but I always prefer throwing the Pointer first. May not be the right/best way but its the way I do it.

Without a doubt the 6XD will catch smallmouth. But is that profile the most productive bait for that depth? I personally do not think so. I fish on smallmouth dominant lakes as well and I have had tremendous success with the 5XD and Little John DD at times but next to none with the 6XD, and similar profile baits. If I need to get those extra few feet of depth I will do as others have mentioned and longline/stroll either a 3XD or 5XD. Another reason I dont like the 6XD is that I prefer to fish deep cranks on 10# line but from my experiance this is too light for the 6xd which means respooling to 12# or 14#.

I stock up on real magic. Keeps your line lubricated real well.

Not a fluke expert but have had lots of jerkbait success this year in particular as the water has been clearer than most years past. During the spawn I like fishing the 4" fluke nose hooked with spinning gear when I know where they are spawning and can slow down. Also, it didnt hurt to throw it when I knew fish are loaded on certain current breaks. One of the best hook-up ratios that I know of fishing like this, problem is, it is very hard to cover water with this sized slow sinking bait. Otherwise I like the superfluke on a 5/0 Extra Wide gap hook. I will tell you though, I never fish the superfluke on a jerkbait rod, I fish it on a worm/jig rod with extra-fast or fast action. I am at a slight disadvantage on my casts but I need that extra backbone for hooksets. Also, I am only using a fluke when there is no chop on the water or have too much grass, otherwise, a hard jerkbait is the way to go!!

I have not fished a Denali but I have seen videos of guys (Terry Bolton) fishing them and they look pretty impressive... Right now however I am beyond impressed by the *** series. First I will note that I hate the grips and realseat and have modified them slightly (filed down plastic and metal), they were uncomfortable and caused bruising (I have read others had same problem), I dont know what they were thinking there. Also something to keep in mind, if you are hard on equipment and break a lot of rods the *** series rods are unprotected and geared more towards high performance than durable and lasting. By unprotected I mean there is no paint undercoat or glaze top coat. I like them because the blanks and taper on those rods is far (so so far) beyond their price point. The balance, the taper, the tip, the power and the sensitivity of these rods is unreal for a value stick and I seriosly doubt there is anything else under 200.00 that compares in 4 out of the 5 of those categories. Typically the only rods I spend high dollar on are my jig, worming, pitching, c-rig, T-rig, and spinning drop shot setups. For my reaction type setups I can always find an adequate 100 dollar stick no problem as normally the less superior taper is just right for reaction bait fishing. Now that these are out however the average price per rod on my boat deck is going down significantly.

Does anyone hear use Nanofil??? I tried all options mentioned above. Nothing comes close. I started using 12# and 10# nanofil mainline with a 8 or 6# Trilene 100% Fluoro leader two seasons ago and have never looked back.... Use the knots Berkley advertises in their Nanfil packaging. Its called a double albright, master it before you leave the house. It honest to god ties 3 times faster than a double clinch and it is noticably stronger. I have a stubborn fishing partner that swears on light fluorcarbon mainline for drop shotting (because Aaron Martins does it). The guy lives and dies by his line managment, line twist, and break offs, respooling. I find it pretty ammusing becuase I dont have to stress out or worry about any of those things. I slap fresh mainline on all three of my drop shot setups at the begining of each season and am good to go all year. Just somthing to think about.

I think they are setting a good example for practicing better handling and that is their main purpose. Its a good thing because I feel like so many television shows of the past and present demonstrate disrespectful handling. In my opinion however. I wish they would just let them fish. I find these rules to be annoying while watching the show. Also Pro's being pentalizing for accidental drops is frustrating to watch. Once they get back onto a good crank bait lake again you all will see how these rule are going to hinder the competition. Probably enough to swing the outcome of an event, which really sucks when the purpose of this program is to showcase the very best anglers in competition. Its not easy to unhook a fish with a mouth full of trebles without letting them flop around a bit first, or wedging them against something, especially the smaller ones. Not only that but hand landing a fish with trebles often times needs to be done by belly cradling, and to avoid getting hooked your first move after you get the fish over the gunnel is either to the carpet or the body. I am laughing right now because last week I was on a ridiculous jerkbait bite (literally ever cast for 7 fish in a row) and I cannot problem solve how I would have unhooked those fish under these rules. Not possible without taking penalty. You wait 2 minutes and those flurries of fish that are not relating to structure are GONE. J Francho, I have a question. First I will say I agree with you on the landing technique 100% (especially living in Smallmouth dominant area). But tell me, and I am sincerely asking, what is your next move after you belly land that fish? Have you ever tried to remove those hooks without setting the fish down, or wedging it against something? How about on an under that is too small to lip without getting stuck? I am not trying to antagonize, I am just asking about the process.