JGBassinAL

The only thing I use a medium action baitcasting rod for is small jerkbaits and the occasional 1/8 oz shaky head.

No way in my right mind would I throw those baits on a medium power rod. Heck, I throw 3/8 oz texas rigged PowerTeam Lures Craw D'ouerves on a heavy power rod and bury the hook every time...

If I am throwing moving baits (crankbaits, spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, chatterbaits, etc.) I prefer full cork. Also if I am using a flippin stick I prefer full cork. If I am casting a jig or texas rig I use split grip, but wouldn't be opposed to using full cork. I guess you could say I'm a full cork fan...

PowerTeam Lure Bully Grass Devil!

Sunline Sniper 20lb!

I sold one a couple weeks ago that was abt 6.5/10 cosmetically and 9/10 mechanically for $70. You should be able to get a mint one for $125 if not $100. I really liked mine, it was just an oddball with all Shimano's on my other setups so I replaced it.

I am with the majority here. Just like Tywithay, I only use one knot and I have never had knot failure. I use mono for topwater, square bills, and one deep cranking setup. Everything else is fluoro. If there is a kink above my knot when I make it, I cut it off and retie. I also check my line often for fraying and retie multiple times throughout the day. Fraying could be why you are breaking off. If I'm throwing crank baits off rocks or bottom contact baits I check my line every ten minutes or so and after every hang up. I use braid with a fluoro leader on my spinning setups (I use the alberto knot) with either 6 or 8 lb fluoro, and my connection knot has never one time broken. Not even when I set the hook on a log or rock and pull as hard as I can to break off when I can't get it loose. It has also never broken at the knot of my fluoro at my lure. Personally, I have never had trouble with fluoro or mono, so I use fluoro on my setups that I see fit. I will say that I use Sunline FC Sniper, and when I used Seaguar Red Label I didn't enjoy fluoro as much. Totally worth it for the more expensive fluoro as it is was more manageable than the cheaper stuff. Also, KVD Line & Lure conditioner makes it even better!

I would say rod if throwing bottom contact baits and reel if you are throwing moving baits. You want the most sensitivity when throwing bottom contact baits and you want longer casts with throwing moving baits. I personally spend more on my reels, but that is because I have a friend that makes rods for me so I get good prices. It doesn't hurt that they are some of the best rods I have ever used, feel exactly like Powells which are awesome! I have never spent over $200 on a reel, and don't see a need to when you can get a Shimano Chronarch 200E for $199.99 and used Curado E's for around $120!

I have never used that reel, I have all Shimanos. But like Cgrinder said, do yourself a favor and pick up one of those Hawgtech handles. I have one with cork knobs on my Scorpion 1500XT, and it is amazing how smooth and light that handle is. Makes it feel like a totally different reel!

I have never used the President but have never read anything but good reviews on it. If I were you, I would get a *** *** Black 6'7" Medium or 7'1" Medium, depending on your preference. And if you could stretch that to $180 I would get a Shimano Sahara 2500. Then I'd throw some 16 lb Sunline SX1 braid on there and whatever fluoro or mono leader you want!

There is not much grass on the lakes in my area, but I do fish Guntersville often. If I am casting a jig on ledges, I use 16lb Sunline Sniper. If I am flipping laydowns, I am using 20 lb Sunline Sniper. If I am in Guntersville, I use 50 lb Sunline FX2 Froggin and Flippin.

I would go with a Shimano Curado 301E for sure!

I know this post was not directed towards me but I have a 7'3" heavy glass rod being made right now so I will get it next week and take it out. I have used a champion 734 before so I will have a basis for comparison and I can let you know. I have 4 medium heavy glass rods already, all made by Scott Dobbins at Tigerodz, and the medium heavys are a good bit more moderate in action than the 734. I have two 7'10" for deep crankin and I actually use a 7'4" medium heavy glass rod for hollow bodied swimbaits with 20lb fluoro and have never had a problem setting the hook on them! I use glass for any kind of moving bait such as crankbaits, spinnerbats, swimbaits, topwaters, and now with chatterbaits. I use graphite for all bottom contact presentations. If anyone is interested in these custom rods give me a shout and I'll hook you up!

PM sent ZB85!

I would use whatever you feel comfortable with. I have always used a graphite rod and not had much trouble losing fish, but I have also not caught a fish over 4 lbs on a chatterbait until last night. I had caught several already, then right before dark I hooked up with a lmb between 9-10 lbs. He jumped up and stayed hooked, surged under the boat and stayed hook, then surged under the boat again and finally came off. I was using a 7'4" heavy/fast rod. Never again will I use a graphite rod for chatterbaits. Sure, a fast tip will drive the hook in the fishes lip, but when you get a big fish on and they surge under the boat you are more than likely going to lost that fish. I know for a fact that the more forgiving tip of a glass rod would have kept that fish pinned when he surged the second time. I am now having a 7'3" heavy glass rod made as we speak specifically for chatterbaits. BTW, my personal best is 6 lbs 6 oz, I wanted to cry. I 100% believe what Brett Hite says about using glass rods for chatterbaits, but I also understand that some people have never had a problem using graphite so why fix something that's not broken? But it's broken for me so now I'm fixing it. And ZB85, I can get one made for you at an incredible price!