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I'm using Sunline Sniper 16lbs. for my main line.......and 14lbs. Trilene XL mono for my leader. 3/4oz tungsten worm weight with glass bead. I fish a lot of rock and shells. Line gets nicked pretty bad and when I set the hook - POOF - I lose it all. Yes, I could retie every hour and I don't mind that.... just wondering if I am fishing too light of a line to begin with? What line do you all use for C-Rigs? Thanks.

Everything on that page says "out of stock".

anyone?

I fish Guntersville many times a year. I was there this weekend on the ledges and decided to stroke a 1/4oz Kastmaster (yes, it's a tiny spoon). Boat was in 20' throwing up onto the ledge in 10' and stroking it back. I caught stripes, sauger, largemouth, spots, and drum. This was my first time spoon fishing and I loved it. I have 3 questions: Is the Kastmaster spoon the best spoon for catching multi species? (When fishing is slow, I want to catch everything.) What hook can I swap out on the Kastmaster? It is very tiny and bends easily. I've heard Siwash hooks work great. Is the original Lake Fork Tackle Flutter Spoon discontinued? If so, who makes the best replica of that flutter spoon is about a 4" model? Thanks!!!

2 beads isn't my "goal" per say..... I just want "normal chatter" between my bead and weight .... and I don't feel that's taking place when they are "stuck" to each other. I'll just use glass from here on...... thanks!

Yes!!! Sorry, I forgot to mention that. Doesn't it defeat the rattle purpose when they stick together???

How much does it cost per senko when you make your own?

I am using Vike brand 3/4 oz bullet weights with Vike brand 8mm beads on my C rig. When they get close to each other, they "snap" together, like a magnet. There is certainly a magnetized connection there. This concerns me that there is no "rattle" since they are "stuck" together. The rattle between the bead and the weight is the purpose of using the bead. Should I change beads to a glass version? Thanks. EDIT: Weight and bead are tungsten and are magnetized.

Do these stand up in a defensive position when at rest? Here's a link... https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-DIRTYJIGS.html?from=basres

Never assembled one... do you simply "feed" it onto the hook and push it up on the shank? The rubberband in the skirt will hold it fine?

7 rods: Squarebill DT6 C-rig Spinnerbait Spook Jr. Senko Jig 7 is ENOUGH. If they won't bite THOSE 7 - they won't bite.

My son bought me a gift card from TW and I'd like to get some jigs. I'd like a jig that will skip docks, come through laydowns, and stand up in a defensive position. What do you recommend from TW? Here's a link, thanks. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/brandjigs.html?from=basres

I had one spinnerbait favorite spinnerbait and it broke. I know it was Booyah but can't find this design anymore. Notice how it has a "minnow head" design... and also, where the arm goes up and "bends" is much shorter than the new Booyah I have in the photo. Anyone know where I can find the "long - slender" head design in Booyah? If I can't get them anymore, please recommend a good "slow rolling" spinnerbait. Thanks.

Several people said Mann's Baby 1-minus.... but I have a question. Why do they look so bad? The paint designs are horrible and the plastic looks cheap and grainy (no clear coat). I did just notice there's an "Elite" series with a little better paint. What is the "color name" of 1-minus you guys have good luck on? Thanks again!

My hometown lake that has tons of shallow water (1 to 3 feet).... and fish here simply love crankbaits. Water here is usually stained to muddy with no more than 2' visibility at it's best. Yes, I know everyone throws a KVD squarebill, but this lake sees a lot of pressure, and I was hoping to find something a little out of the norm. I haven't heard of anyone local throwing Spro fat john 60's. Any of you have experience with that bait or can recommend something else? Thanks!