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I'm using Sunline Sniper 16lbs. for my main line.......and 14lbs. Trilene XL mono for my leader. 3/4oz tungsten worm weight with glass bead. I fish a lot of rock and shells. Line gets nicked pretty bad and when I set the hook - POOF - I lose it all. Yes, I could retie every hour and I don't mind that.... just wondering if I am fishing too light of a line to begin with? What line do you all use for C-Rigs? Thanks.

Everything on that page says "out of stock".

anyone?

I fish Guntersville many times a year. I was there this weekend on the ledges and decided to stroke a 1/4oz Kastmaster (yes, it's a tiny spoon). Boat was in 20' throwing up onto the ledge in 10' and stroking it back. I caught stripes, sauger, largemouth, spots, and drum. This was my first time spoon fishing and I loved it. I have 3 questions: Is the Kastmaster spoon the best spoon for catching multi species? (When fishing is slow, I want to catch everything.) What hook can I swap out on the Kastmaster? It is very tiny and bends easily. I've heard Siwash hooks work great. Is the original Lake Fork Tackle Flutter Spoon discontinued? If so, who makes the best replica of that flutter spoon is about a 4" model? Thanks!!!

2 beads isn't my "goal" per say..... I just want "normal chatter" between my bead and weight .... and I don't feel that's taking place when they are "stuck" to each other. I'll just use glass from here on...... thanks!

Yes!!! Sorry, I forgot to mention that. Doesn't it defeat the rattle purpose when they stick together???

How much does it cost per senko when you make your own?

I am using Vike brand 3/4 oz bullet weights with Vike brand 8mm beads on my C rig. When they get close to each other, they "snap" together, like a magnet. There is certainly a magnetized connection there. This concerns me that there is no "rattle" since they are "stuck" together. The rattle between the bead and the weight is the purpose of using the bead. Should I change beads to a glass version? Thanks. EDIT: Weight and bead are tungsten and are magnetized.

Do these stand up in a defensive position when at rest? Here's a link... https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-DIRTYJIGS.html?from=basres

Never assembled one... do you simply "feed" it onto the hook and push it up on the shank? The rubberband in the skirt will hold it fine?

7 rods: Squarebill DT6 C-rig Spinnerbait Spook Jr. Senko Jig 7 is ENOUGH. If they won't bite THOSE 7 - they won't bite.

My son bought me a gift card from TW and I'd like to get some jigs. I'd like a jig that will skip docks, come through laydowns, and stand up in a defensive position. What do you recommend from TW? Here's a link, thanks. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/brandjigs.html?from=basres

I had one spinnerbait favorite spinnerbait and it broke. I know it was Booyah but can't find this design anymore. Notice how it has a "minnow head" design... and also, where the arm goes up and "bends" is much shorter than the new Booyah I have in the photo. Anyone know where I can find the "long - slender" head design in Booyah? If I can't get them anymore, please recommend a good "slow rolling" spinnerbait. Thanks.

Several people said Mann's Baby 1-minus.... but I have a question. Why do they look so bad? The paint designs are horrible and the plastic looks cheap and grainy (no clear coat). I did just notice there's an "Elite" series with a little better paint. What is the "color name" of 1-minus you guys have good luck on? Thanks again!

My hometown lake that has tons of shallow water (1 to 3 feet).... and fish here simply love crankbaits. Water here is usually stained to muddy with no more than 2' visibility at it's best. Yes, I know everyone throws a KVD squarebill, but this lake sees a lot of pressure, and I was hoping to find something a little out of the norm. I haven't heard of anyone local throwing Spro fat john 60's. Any of you have experience with that bait or can recommend something else? Thanks!

Thanks everyone.... Any reason to use mono instead of FC or vice versa?

What is your line choice for 1/2 oz. spinnerbaits? Mostly throwing around grass lines, docks, seawalls. Thanks.

I have 1 Tourney MG and 5 Tourney Pros. I'd like to learn how to clean/oil them. I'm not very inclined on taking out a bunch of tiny screws, springs, clips, etc..... but keeping them in top working condition is a must. It also helps that have all Lew's reels so the learning curve shouldn't be too hard. Thanks for your help.

Just to answer a few of your questions: We were sitting in 25' throwing up into 15' and simply dragging and tugging texas rigged senkos through eel grass. No hopping, not really "working" the bait at all since it was "sticking" to the grass and we had to just drag it through. So it's not like one of us had a cadence and the other didn't. I tied on some 20# fluoro leader material last night using a 5 loop uni knot. Here's hoping.

I only fish Guntersville and the Coosa River. I recently fished with a buddy on G'ville where we both were fishing a ledge....using the same T-Rig bait. He caught 4 to my 1 ratio. He was throwing fluoro.... I was throwing 30# braid. Did he get lucky..... or is braid keeping me from catching fish? I have braid on most of my rods (jigs, worms, etc.) - should I switch to fluoro? I'm very leery about using leaders as it adds another "break point" in the setup. Thanks.

I want to thank everyone for responding.....but I'd like to clarify my question..... "cheap" is not my primary need. "The BEST" is what I'm looking for. By saying that, I mean I want the highest percentage of tungsten in the weight (the amount of tungsten varies from maker to maker). Also, I don't want weights that may cut my line. So again, "cheap" isn't my concern as much as "highest quality out there". Please advise. Thanks!

Tungsten Weights - Are they all the same? If not, which is best? I'm looking to replace all my T-Rig, Flippin', and C-Rig with Tungsten. I need a manufacturer that makes 3/8 to 3/4 (maybe larger). Thanks.

Nah...no need. Thank u though...I've already ordered it and will test it next week. My main concern is that it's a good C rig rod..... If it'll also let me punch grass, fine, if not, a 736 will be ordered also. Thanks.

Thanks... I did speak with Dobyns and they said the 735 would have more horsepower in the grass.....but you stated the 764 has MUCH more power than the 734 which makes me think it'll have more power than a 735 too. Well see. I'm certainly gonna use it and flip mats on Gville. If it doesn't hold up to the task....then I'll buy a 736C.

I'm considering adding a dedicated C-Rig rod to my Dobyns line up. Looking at the 764C. Any thoughts on this? Their website says it's a "heavy" action rod with a fast tip. I already have a 735C - would the 764C be stronger and possibly let me flip some grass too?