nocellcontracts

After speaking with the rep...I'm going with full handles and lower powers on most of the rods. Not sure if I'm sending my 2 735's back for swap or selling....I'll contact those interested if I sell. Here's my new order... I hope they feel better this time. 735 jigs and c-rigs 734 big worms and brush hogs 733 Wacky Senkos 733 Spinnerbaits Chatterbaits 705CB GLASS Shallow cranks 765CB GLASS Deep cranks

I agree... I think I need softer tip rods. Even when I cast a 3/8oz jig/trailer on the 735, its almost broom handle stiff and casting distance is nothing special. When trig fishing, I use a 1/8oz bullet on all my worms 5", 7", 10". I actually asked LOTS of questions and went with what the rep said at Dobyns. The split grip is my own fault as I think they "look cool".... But I just can't acclimate to the weirdness I'm feeling. Do u think full handles and lower power may resolve this? Thanks.

I just want great feeling rods will all my baits. My main lures are... Buzzbaits Shallow crank Deep crank Worm Jig Weightless senko Spinner bait

I recently bought 5 Dobyn's Champion rods: 735C (qty 2) 736C 684C 705C CB Glass All of them are split handle except for the CB Glass rod. This is my first time using split handled rods and none of them feel right to me. Not sure if there's a learning curve (getting acclimated) to the split handle or what. Another thing I noticed is the diameter of the cork is really skinny. I'm use to a Pro Qualifier rod with a thick cork (called "Power Hump Grip"). Gosh, did I love those rods. They were stolen and are not available anymore, so I went with Dobyns. The 735's just don't seem to load up very much when casting.....as if they are too stiff for casting jigs and worms, but feel fine on the retrieve. I returned the 684 and 736 and plan to order other models. Still have a pair of 735's and may sell them at half price. Can any of you shed some light here on what I may be experiencing? Thanks guys.

Guys, we've got jigs/trailers, finess worms, trick worms, stick worms, baby brush hogs, big brush hogs, culprit (standard) worms, 'Ol monster 10" and 12" worms, lizards, etc. It's all the same strike zone, bouncing off the bottom. And while we're talking about "the same strike zone", do we really need rods dedicated to t-rigs, another for c-rigs, another for jigs, etc?

I'm building an arsenal of 7 Dobyn's rods and I plan to throw ONLY the baits tied on each rod. No more cutting/tying different lures. My plan is the following: Spinnerbait Swim jig Topwater Worm Jig Shallow crank Deep crank What would you do differently? Oh, I only fish 2 lakes (Neely Henry on the Coosa River and Guntersville on the TN river). Thanks!

I'm starting to see a lot of people selling custom crankbaits. Some have paint jobs while others are "photo wrapped". These baits are bringing $10, $20, or more. What's your thoughts here? Genuinely worth the price? Or just "all prettied up" to catch fishermen? My thoughts are that a crankbait calls up a reaction strike and a fish has no idea it has a "custom finish" on it. Ok, let me hear it.

Thanks all. Now I have to decide if I want one brown extreme rod in the middle of all those blue champions. lol

Currently using Champion Series 736 for jig fishing. It's a tad bit heavy, so I tried using a 735. It's the perfect weight, but a little flimsy in the tip. Any advice here? Dobyns says a lot of people use a 735 for jig fishing. What say y'all?

I've been using a uni knot. So far, I'm getting 50% fluoro answers and 50% braid. The Coosa River is pretty stained, with 1' or less visibility. I do 90% of my fishing here. The rest of my trips are at Guntersville where you can have 2' of visibility.

I don't have two jig rods.... I've got to have one line that will flip/cast/drag jigs. Pick it.

Guys, I fish two lakes in Alabama: Neely Henry (Coosa River) and Guntersville (TN River). What line do you recommend for flippin' a jig? Of course I'll be casting/dragging it some as well. I currently have 30# Suffix braid spooled up. I recently tried using a 14# fluoro leader and the braid cut through the fluoro on a hookset. Please advise. Thanks!

Well, I guess that could vary. I live on Neely Henry Lake (40 miles south of Guntersville). This lake has a lot of docks in 1 to 6 feet of water. We also have rock bluffs that are 20+ feet. I'll also be on G'ville in many depths as well - but the grass is in 10' or less. Is the ONLY thing different on the bait just the weight of the lead head?

Just received a shipment of 3 chatterbait elites in 3/8 oz. size. For a trailer, I plan on using Lake Fork Magic Shads. My question is, should I have ordered these baits in 1/2 oz? When should each size be used? Thanks.

I think this is a regular chatter bait, but what is the name of this trailer?

I'm sorry. I meant to say the 684 rod really feels puny. I got it because many people advised that one over the 7' 3" spinnerbait rod. I mainly fish Neely Henry (the first major lake due south of Guntersville) and I also fish G'ville quite a bit. Both lakes can call for long casts. I did fish a square bill on the 765 when I had it. I can't tell any "load up" difference using that bait between the 705 or the 765.

Weak - as in casting power. All my rods are 7'3" except for the 705 and the 768 (which feels puny in my hands when throwing spinnerbaits/lipless baits).

I use to have the 765 (got stolen). When I re-ordered rods, I got the 705 because I thought the 765 was a tad heavy to throw all day. After evaluating the 705....it just feels "weak" in my hand. I throw a Rapala DT6 a LOT. Do you think my casting distance would improve with a DT6 on the 765. I'm thinking i got another 10' or so with it.

Do each of these rods have their own purpose? Or would you guys use the 765 for squarebills and up to 20' divers? Thanks.

I'm dealing with a similar issue. I'm not +5, but I do need prescription sunglasses. Every pair I buy, it feels "weird" - hard to describe. I guess it's from looking through the concaved lenses but it feels like I'm inside the water, looking out. The perception is "off".

Academy has become my go-to place for all lures and line. Here's a few examples: I recently caught zoom brush hogs on sale for $1.99 --- Got 20 packs!! 300 yards of Sufix Braid Performance is only $18.99 (everyday) - but at Bass Pro it's $30+ Spro Frogs are $8.59 while bass pro charges $10.99 We as fishermen have to cherry pick and keep a close watch on sales and stock up. Screw all that $6/pack for soft plastics. GEESH! I saw some Big Bite Real Deal Craw's at Academy - 4 to a pack - $6 (no thanks!)

JG, I live on Neely Henry Lake (Rainbow City, AL). Never caught a smallmouth - put me on one sometime!

Are you saying my casting distance will be further with 65yds. vs. 100yds. of fluoro? How's that???

Do you mean put more mono on the inner spool so that the spool is full with only 65yds. of fluoro on top of the mono? I'm not following you on "top shots". Explain please.

I have a 200yd. spool of Invizx. I would like to put 100yd. on each of 2 reels. As you know, 100 yds. isn't enough to fill the spool, so is it OK to use a cheap backing of mono in the inner spool? Does it affect casting distances in any way? Thanks!