Reyn

If I were you, I'd call my local Dick's store and see what they have in stock. I bought mine last year from my local Dick's store and paid half of what you would pay to have it shipped from Dicks.com. Seeing that the nice fishing weather in Maryland is almost over, maybe you should wait for a good sale price, or wait until next Spring.

Bought this on e-bay for around $20. It's unique in that the bottom of the paddle has an opening to use as a hand grip. This comes in handy for someone to pull you into shore or a dock. On the opposite end are two hooks in the handle. I use these to grip a sapling to pull me in to retrieve a lure in the branches and also to dislodge a stuck submerged lure.

I don't have any suggestions, but thanks for telling us about this. I never gave it any thought. Do you have the Big Foot connected before or after the FF connection?

BrookC, I explained everything in my narrative on page 122. Tap or click on the picture to enlarge it.

BrooksC, Look at my post and picture from 18 July on page 122. It might be what your looking for.

I have both the trolling motor and fishfinder connected to the front plug of my 10E. There is absolutely no interference from the trolling motor and since I hooked up the fishfinder my full size battery still lasts all day. After all the draw of the fishfinder is measured in micro amps. Not having another battery means a little more floor space and one less thing to take in and out of the boat when trailering it.

Recently I gave inaccurate information on how I prepared my 10E for registration stickers to bassinOUT89. I used white vinegar and there still on after over a year. There is a conversation on this subject on page 83.

I wiped on some alcohol, let it dry and the stickers have stayed in place.

Reposting pic. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-48460-0-43220400-1437256343.jpg

This is my fishfinder set up on my 10E; I recently purchased a Humminbird Helix 5 Si GPS from TheDigitalOasis.com for $444.95 and free shipping (you can get a less expensive Helix without side imaging). I mounted it to a Ram Mount specific to the Helix and attached it to the the plastick bar by the right front rod holder. No holes needed to be drilled through the hull. The yellow do hickel on the wire harness is a waterproof fuse holder for a 3 amp fuse that Humminbird does not supply, but they tell you that you must use a 3 amp fuse or bye bye warrantee.image.jpg Update: I took it out today for the first time. It showed me a fish, first cast of the day, 14+ inch bass on a swimming jig.

I have the same mount, only Humminbird brand. < $18.00, free shipping, no sales tax on EBay.

This is my fishfinder set up on my 10E; I recently purchased a Humminbird Helix 5 Si GPS from TheDigitalOasis.com for $444.95 and free shipping (you can get a less expensive Helix without side imaging). I mounted it to a Ram Mount specific to the Helix and attached it to the the plastick bar by the right front rod holder. No holes needed to be drilled through the hull. The yellow do hickel on the wire harness is a waterproof fuse holder for a 3 amp fuse that Humminbird does not supply, but they tell you that you must use a 3 amp fuse or bye bye warrantee.

Apparently, a trolling motor does not put out enough turbulence to effect the performance of a transducer.

BS, The two wires attach to the battery posts. You then attach your trolling motor directly to the battery in the rear, or buy a male plug to match the built in female plug in the front and use that set up for the trolling motor to be up front (better option).

The riser will make that happen

No, I have the riser and when I'm sitting the boat feels very stable. Now when I'm standing, well at 6' 1" that's another story.

I purchased a Minn-Kotta trolling motor adjustable clamp, just like the one the comes with their trolling motors. I then cut a pvc pipe to desired length, slid it into the opening and attached a piece of plexiglass into a slot that I cut on the back side of the pipe. Drilled two holes and attached with screw bolts, lock washers and nuts.

Lost-My-Bait, If you decide to put the motor in the front, be shure to adjust the head of the motor to allow the prop to be facing to the rear and also allowing the control head to be facing towards you as well. I have a Minn-Kota and it describes how to to do this in the owner's manual. Good Luck.

Lost-My-Bait, This is what I, and many others, have found to works best. Put your battery in the rear. Trolling motor in the front (purchase and splice on a plug that matches the female plug in the front to the trolling mother wires). A 45 pond thrust motor seems ideal. You will eventually want to put a clamp on DIY rudder on the back that you'll leave in a parallel position to cut down on the boat spinning around. Your correct that the the transducer is the sonar pick up of the fishfinder. Most people purchase the clamp to put it on the trolling motor. By having the transducer in the front you will see what's under your boat as you move along. If you attach it in the rear ie. to the rudder, you will see what you've already past.

You should send your message to Pellican. Maybe they'll take the hint. I have a 10E too and wonder what they were thinking when they built the mold for the top half of the boat.Nothing makes sense!

Tommy X, I have the same exact setup as you, same boat and trolling motor. I don't understand why you're having problems with with a 7" riser. I have a 7" riser on an upgraded fully padded seat and I'm 2" shorter than you. I have no problem reaching the bare floor of my 10E. I'm not saying that your seat is not to high for you, after all you should know, I just can't figure out why.

Thanks J. T. Maybe you could post a photo of it on your Raider?

Has any one tried a Power-Pole Micro Anchor on their Bass Raider 10E?

Woody, I have two suggestions. 1) Tighten the clamps down as tight as you possibly can. 2) I have a 45 thrust TM and I found out the hard way that you should go from stop or slow to full speed slowly (gradually). Going straight to top speed will cause the clamp to walk up on one side or completely come off of the transom at full speed. Not fun!

Chris, I can only answer your third question. Where the control head meets the shaft of your T motor, look for a screw. Loosen or remove that screw and you should be able to turn the head 180 degrees. Then tighten the screw back up and then you will be able to mount it on the bow transom and run it as normal for forward and reverse. Think about mounting a rudder in the rear to help it track better without constantly making directional adjustments. Hope this helps you.